scottishjohn

then it don,t sound like a leach field -but an old fashioned pipe that ends up in a burn somewhere --I would want to know where its going . maybe just better to fence it off and have nothing go anywhere near it but first you got to onow exactly where it is- a farmer damaging when ploughing sounds like its not buried deep enough anyway yuo don,t plough down to 2ft+

I basically agree --but if the last repair was a bodge job --you could end up with more of a job to fix it right than we think - so best to check who is liable to start with in my opinion .then do what ever is best fix I would worry if it is a cess pit --that would make me think its all very old -- you can,t have cess pit in scotland now --so maybe you opening up its plumbing could trigger BC insisting on it being up dated . I could be totally wrong --but I would want to know worst case before opening it up

thats the first thing I would be checking -if no easment --then its his problem not yours and how does he get to the cess pit to empty it? over your land?

what is major cause of these types of cracks drying out too quick or house movement

a surveyor looking at house if you want to sell it might think differently and assume its hiding something If its as obvious as in your picture after the repair. saying that minor cracking is normal has confirmed to me i won,t be using render as first choice Is it a problem cused by TF structures moving about or is just as bad on solid walls like blocks or ICF thats a bit like me trying to convince a s/h car buyer that the car is not scratched if you can,t see it from 3m back

that tells me its not a loft but another bedrooom or office -you don,t need elegant for a loft it will need proper staircase in new build-

I had lpg boiler and swopped it for an ASHP ,no other alterations to heating system--running costs are less than 50% of lpg boiler+RHI grant as well

you need to lean on it HARD --ALL the time to make it work --

who designed this ? they must have a solution for fixings something like this which will go direct into the blocks ? https://www.amazon.co.uk/200mm-CONCRETE-FRAME-FIXING-SCREW/dp/B00P55QBXU

what are htheese used for https://www.sweeneykincaid.com/auctions/lot/3763/602/1106351?isclosed=true seem to be lot in auctions

or line it with plastic soffit board stuck to mould-deinitely woll pull off no problem then

a good place to get rid of some hardcore waste -deep in the concrete -

its not a real fogure cos he has not included the cost of the pv system -so he is saying its free electic -but its not really will take 8 years + just to get repayment of cost probably-if a professionally fitted system

If you have maisn gas,then that will always be cheaper using radiators had you used and insulated slaband UFH then it gets a lot closer -but if on mains gas --probably still cheaper

I doubt it --they will want to cover the access for ever ,even if you sell them on and have a right to do maintaince work when ever they feel . It will be for thier legal expenses-each one will be seperate I think

how many cubic meters of concrete in the house?

a swimming pool is alot more volume 5mx3mx2m =30000litre thats a plunge pool -dive in and one stroke your at other end

15000 tank https://www.ebay.co.uk/i/302595929198?chn=ps

no alot of the poly tanks do not need burying for load --but yes they have to be buried to stop water freezing 10000tank is about £1200 new me i would buy one larger tank it will be much cheaper and less work and just plumb it so you can only use top of it for watering garden and fire men can stick a suction piupe inthe top

doubt it would be cheaper than the poly tanks you can buy and it would still need burying --long term the ply would rot away

UV will be minimum-but might need some other treatment I know of one aboout 15 miles away near gatehouse that was showing small arsenic content -but a filter of some sort may it ok that will be next on list once i am happy with source and flow

still not on right road today --spent it all dumper driving moved about 300tons today -minimum but snapped a few of the moderate size ones on the road side thats my chainsaw helmet on them to give scale . your WEE diggers would not lift any of them

I know where its going- It was old water supply to my house -thenthe mian flow after the interception tank runs across the corut yard in a stone channel -under my road then cascades down the quarry side into the lake,then runsout of the bottom end under main road to the sea and yes i have considered hydro power by raising the level of the lake -dead easy to raise it 8m and get a 25m drop --but that is not my main concern at this time If and when quarry is sold it will not be mine what i want to know is where it comes from it enters my property through a stone dyke and there are 2 small disused quarrys up hill from me which never dry up and never seem to alter much in level I am told by old locals that they gave up quarrying them cos it was too hard to keep them dry --but that would be in the early 1800,s so they just dug somewhere else where water was not as much a problem so the idea is to add dye to one quarry at a time and see which it comes from I have found a plastic 32mm pipe on other side of quarry --on the glebe side which is laid on the surface and of course has split at a joiner,frost ? ,used for quarry things I suspect --It has been running for years as far as i can tell so if this is fed from same quarry --then I will have enough water for my supply something else thart is strange no one can ever remember the lake being frozen!!--maybe water coming out of rock very low down in the quarry walls -so relativly warm?--yet another thing to investigate still have not had a boat on it yet to plumb the depth -locals have lots of ideas varying from 20m to 40m in parts-

Hi looking for a non toxic water dye to trace where my stream is coming from --suspect its from an old quarry ruther up the hill but it willeventually run into my lake in the quarry and then to the sea the quarry lake is full of fish

wrong road today --maybe tomorrow