scottishjohn

correct

I suppose it depends on what you class as ID and what is actual house design ,as in architect and primarly cost for consultation are fees based on cost of interior or floor area ? I have no idea how much an ID would charge for say a 300sqm home would it be twice that of a 150sqm one ? but i can see if going that way then you could argue that an ID should be in at the house design stage -before plans are final ? I am a doer as in building +working through technical problems - at this time all these sort of decisions will be mainly architect and SWMB unless its something really arty farty --then I have my say

my latest update had a water test It is fine no nasty heavy metals I did pay for a water diviner and i have found a good spot if needed ,If my old supply should prove not enough ,to make a bore hole a Hand dug well is a non starter on solid granite

where in uk are you I got a topographical one done on two plots i was looking at - before and it cost £300 he lives in glasgow area he will be doing my current site If i have to do one

you cannot do your calculation on that -must for total possible load suppose you should be starting from the beginning How do you know that a 16amp supply is enough ? ring main usually has a 30 amp fuse -

so 17 x 16amp ==thats a lot get an electrician to work it out -- single phase it will be bigger than 90mm and cost a alot - as suggested 3 phase by DNO to the place where all these u8nits take power from

thats the point in canada its -20 non stop for months not many days when its -temp for long

not for uk --as lowest normal temp can be handled by ASHP if in Canada or nothern europe where months of -20c --then GSHP will be the way to go due to better COP from ground which temp is more more stable than air

gas boiler -- what noise and service will be more readily available then any heat pump what we should asking is how close to PH is this going to be ,cos better you get it ,the less imporatant cost of heating is there are people with very well insulated house using UFH and solar PV to run immersion heater on tank -which will do all UFH most of the year and a little top up with cheap rate electric -- thats could probably cheapest all round inc equipment costs so a lot more to look at depending on your build your heat loss calculation and required heat load will guide you on this "fabric first" is the way to build so make the house so warm you can heat it with a candle +you don,t need fancy systems

then you obviously have too much money - if you are going GSHP and not ASHP or mains gas. the gshp is not as low servicing costs as a ASHP- your brine will need changing every few years and if your going to use gas for cooking -then its no brainer next question you sure your ground is suitable as in can you dig down 1.5m all over it --for certain how wet is it --and do you have a fixed price cost for it. I have had a ASHP pump for 6 years -- I replaced the calor gas boiler with it --it already had underfloor fitted -- the result was i saved over £1000 a year on heating over LPG by just changinf fuel supply It has never missed a beat . I did at first look at GSHP -- but no one would warranty for certain that tghe loops i could put in would be enough -- or that there would not be extra costs for bad ground--like shuttering if it was too wet and trenchs wanted to fall in or fill with water or if rock breaker needed rock breaker if it was not consistent soil depth and rock bed this "sueeze in" sounds lke its border line anyway -- so what do you do if the COP is bad cos you don,t have enough loop length? as too how will it work in Uk climate --Ialready covered that in first reply and i am in scotland

that will be a roof that is not meant to be made sealed--like sarking boards and slates we are dealing with a different animal here conservation groups don,t work with modern sealed roof systems

it will work as its totally water proof quite popular now to spray on insdie of old stone barns to make them water proof to the insdie and let it breath out tghrough the lime mortar . also seen it used as water proofing on a basement on outside of walls

just not a sensible option -- you want no condensation at all in your calcs - sounds like a time bomb as its not finished what about lowering ceiling 100m by moving joists down ? then you will have another 100 mm to play with will it be that noticable in that room below

I just finished showing first couple round the site and he was a retired builder less than a day -- that looks good sent them away to think it through --their minds were blown by the possibilities

all the above and my architect quoted planning sections that would support our developement

definately a different idea think digging could be a problem how about burial at sea -- or in a lake in a quarry ? yuo could a have wonderful place for the services over looking the lake-- not sure a viking type funeral with burning boat would be practical nearest crenmatorium is 60 or 80 miles away ----maybe that could work mains gas running down the road at gate but as all these things -- for someone else to do this is the listing for the glebe https://gapinthemarket.com/property/the-glebe-carsluith-creetown-dg8-7dl/

you not looked at my thread in plots ----have alook as to what i,m doing with it is up for discussion with planning and will also depend on how quick i sell the other parts and how much i get from them the other house is going on the market as we speak

to early to say contaminated or unstable ground archeology ancient woodland maybe making me rebuild it too early to say we just have to wittle them down

If you end up getting an updated agreement --then make sure that any repairs required in future will be shared by all those on this private main how many houses does it serve and what dia pipe is it? 63mm? I am guessing you pay the water company direct for the usage

me too

what is that exactly

got response eventually from planning and maybe \\\\\\\\\i will need to keep lower level of orginal granite house so my intial thoughts are stabilize it all -- put a ring beam on top of first floor -then concrete roof and build modern house on top thinking it could be alot cheaper than having masons in messing about to do the same thing open to any other suggestions that will not take off too much interior space maybe shutter it all and a thin sloppy concrete wall ? or use something like VELOX panels to do the same ? think that could be cheaper than flatten and the rebuild original outer facade on to an ICF or block wall now the head will really start to spin

at last got a reply to my pre planning -which is basically positive with lots of hoops to jump through but at least we can now start to make plans so maybe i won,t need to include plans for my tomb after all

anybody know if there is such a thing -- to basically spray inside of my granite walls to stick them all together --

or fit 2 layers now ?-- underneath one will not get any UV or wind just leave top one on and roof it? and yes tape your seams to be sure