scottishjohn

If its 20k its a no brainer has to be mains

don,t think i ever seen that up here and we have loads of granite just slab or is this with suspended floor ? to vent under the floor above the slab

is there not a radon barrier material you can fit under slab?

just a pity no stream on site as i could get a 300ft drop no problem lots more plotting if i get it maybe could build a wee dam and divert small "issues" as they call them up here into to it definately having some complicated dreams about this one

that had crossed mind ,but last time i looked chp could only give about 1kw or less. and then theres the lpg tank costs all ideas welcome

I will of course but its a bit of secret service at the moment --don,t want others getting on the trail of this plot,as it is not on open market yet i,m sure its the same where you are --even walking the ground is enough to start other locals on the scent of of it. you will be seen by someone If it comes off you will all like it ,or think i,m totally mad Lol. you probably think that now

looking at a plot .but it is looking like mains connection is 40K guesstimate cost bracket working on 10K a pole,which i have been told is the going rate Is purely pv with batteries now a real choice to run whole house ? like normal mains powered house with all normal appliances no problem with space for ground mounted array

well yes +no woodcrete blocks you use a much sloppier mix than poly blocks ,because they have more inherrent strength and sloppy mix will not need to be poker vibrated to compact it It is the hydraulic weight that causes most blow outs ,so for foam blocks they use a thicker mix ,but that needs vibrating because its not as free flowing but too much compacting and that can actually burst blocks then if you look at the velox panel system ,that too can use pretty sloppy mix ,again because the woodcrete is stronger and can let the excess water in the concrete mix leach into the pourous wood crete ,so setting it off quicker --poly blocks that water is going nowhere so mix will be more critical the secret is to not put too much in one spot at once so by the time you have walked round the walls --it has already started to set . this is how you can build so high in "one pour" It won,t actually be "one pour" cos bottom half should be firmed up before you get round again . and then you will get a break waiting for next truck probably polyblocks rely on the interlocking and woodcrete rely on physical weight to keep them in place I wonder why they don,t suggest using some sort of thinset adhesive between the blocks ,then this would not be a problem with woodcrete blocks no matter how high you filled as in 2 hours they would never come apart again If you want belt+braces you could do that my guess its purely the cost ,which can be avoided with a correct pour strategy and do a slump test for the concrete on each batch before pour to make sure it is correct spec all these systems work if you understand the strengths +weakness of each system

I would accept bathroom is different and not do that polished --but make it a wet room and tile floor you making a lot of possible boobytraps for yourself i think

which in truth was all i bought if or --anything else was a bonus I certaintly would not be reccomending it for any other purpose -

what the insul hub man +and durisol rep told me was to brace corners with 8x4 osb cut in half and then any other area that seems a bit weak only need for rebar in isotex is around door opening and window openings otherwise not need for uk --but fit if you like no downside. maybe if you live next the fracking fields .LOL we are not earthquake prone like Italy and other parts of europe

agree totally -- yes SHE can tell when its on low volltage cos of the cooker . but failures of oven thermostat was a yearly occurence then --not now but since fitting --which is a few years ago now ,well before leds were sensible price ,it did make things last longer by reducing the over voltage . candle bulbs were lasting 2 weeks ,no matter what make and cost . and even after they supposedly tweeked the sub station it was just the same --so the box was fitted and i did say i could see no difference in energy bills . niether up or down most of the time its on 216v one wonders if the new smart meters actually do a compensation for over +low voltage --to charge the correct amount?-maybe thats how my friend who says bill has gone up since smart meter fitted is complaining? all normal household goods run happily on less than 240 anyway and i don,t think it was the high voltage really causing the problem ,but the way it spiked high back low ,then high again in a very short time period--which is what the graph recorder showed . It would spike high - then it would drop from the normal back slowly to very low -then wallopp right up to over 265. all I can say is my bit of "snake oil " has curred the problem over the last 10years . I did expect a bit of electronic control to give seamless steady steady voltage all the time .

I also saw that and it has or will be corrected in uk documentation as th uk blocks are not same spec as italian either-speak to them

can only pass comment on what i have seen --and i believe its to do with local sub station as we are over 1 mile from it ,as they said they would adjust it when they saw the graph

I,ve always had very variable voltage where I am after a lot of talks they agreed to fit a graph for a day --I kept it for a week ,cos there were no surges in first day went from 210-265v twice in that time just for a few seconds ,then back to 245 after that i fitted one of these energy saving box,s not convinced it has made any dif to elec bill though --certainly not the 10% they claimed ,and i assumed wrongly it would be soem sort of real regualtion --but no its just a switch with what I assume is a big resistor -as it does not alter voltage to keep at 216 or 240 --just changes when it sees low input from supply to go back to 240 it drops voltage to 216 -unless a big load or low input no more problems with equipment not lasting very long .It was most obvious when we still had std light bulbs -and candle type ones for wall lights they blew every couple of weeks -now of course led types

which is going along with my own feelings -no is my first thought and now my second one as well. certainly if i went pv they would insist for sure,i think my meter,a as its so old would run backwards if i exported

SSE are trying convince me to change to one advice ? only things i,ve heard from locals is the elec bills went up after having them fitted# maybe old meters tend to read on consumers side? meter is original one fitted in 1979

ALL houses need to be balanced to get the best from the system ,especially with modern boilers so return temp of water is correct and your plumber should do this on comisioning , not just wind the valves full open, feel the rad and say "thats working" - and why it was anal was because i was attempting to get the temp drop the rad makers said and I could not even after many attempts to balance upstairs with down stairs

yes. presuming not full of sludge. not a big job if you have valves both end of rads to uncouple them and flush them out ,but as your boiler is pre self condensing+ hardly any controls i am guessing its time to think about big upgrade to everything maybe ?

its not a matter of "tuning my way" i was looking for the biggest temp drop across the rad if you get that then you are getting the best from the rad . maybe they have improved them over the years

have exactly same problem with the sites I am looking at -the PP says 40metres each way and this a a "U" class road --eg a nearly a cart track with grass growing in the middle the bin lorry don,t even come up it and i don,t think there is a bit 80 metres long on it that is straight --you have put bins at bottom of road .# gates have to set back 6m --so you are not on road when you shut them and I have to make a layby to widen road as well. for a road that you could count the cars that use it on one hand

temp drop across the rad in real world will depend on how high the ambient room temp is. sure if room was very cold you might get much bigger temp drop .

good luck with getting that temp drop across a stelrad tsd unit got very anal about this when i had std heating in house spent many hours with 2 thermo couples on the in+out to rads and played about with pump speeds +boiler temps + adjusting flow valves to balance whole system best i could ever get was 12c drop across the rads for upstairs in modern house --maybe electrical heating mats are the way for the small time you will use them ?

sunamp is a a hot water tank --just much more compact+ much less heat loss than normal tank ,even a very well insulated one . that ,s how I understand it ASHP is a another way of heating water in a very cheap way compared to LPG and oil,and could be run from saved PV if you have battery system --in theory . your Off grid situation is the situation why I posted about the nexgen heating system ----maybe that could be a viable alternative for off grid. i have now come across an old ruin --which could be that way,off grid --about 10steps with the paraglider and i would be soaring at 200metres I asked in same thread about cost comparison of suspended wood floor verus insulated slab +ufh system. so far no replies for or against My gut feeling is that the costs would be in favour of the suspended floor +direct electric floor heating --if off grid and you are intent of going major pv + batteries