Mr Punter

You only need to size the boiler for DHW. The heating demand will be covered several times over.

I do not think a build over agreement will apply.

If you are not building any new walls or foundations this should not apply. Changing use will not affect the integrity of the drains!

The warm roof / cold roof is confusing on a pitched roof, where it often means to refer to the loft, not the rafters. Almost no pitched roofs are truly warm, with all insulation above the rafters. The architect has specified insulation between rafters (I assume fully filled), breather membrane above, counter battens and battens, then new tiles. You won't need to touch the ceiling.

Why do the planners care how long you live there? Dickheads.

You will not split the title. You will sell and transfer part of the land which will be on a new title and retain the rest on the original title which will be minus the bit you have sold. Most solicitors should be able to do this. You won't be able to do it until you sell.

Someone on here did an oak frame with oak visible inside and out. I can't find the person, but here is the house: https://www.rightmove.co.uk/house-prices/details/england-65891074-69232953?s=09f1fd364ad88af843b86a954972dc9081ac27208edb81c15a43198f3100ab4f&v=media&id=media0&ref=photoCollage

There is a growing consensus that there is no point in UFH on the first floor, especially if it is just bedrooms & bathrooms. Save yourself some cash. Just towel rads.

Is there a dirgo in the cupboard? Where is the connection to the soil pipe?

Yes, you can build the non-loadbearing studwork walls off the insulation / screed.

Absolutely right. I would rather just use a bucket and slop out, prison style, than have a macerator.

The foundation will only be a good as the soil it bears on and I suspect that they may have been poured onto soft mush rather than stiff clay. Did BC inspect the trenches?

None of this looks great. You will need rodding access. 3 looks the least problematic. For access and rodding, outside the building is "nicer".

Burying the existing plasterboard behind insulation instead of removing it was a mistake. Plasterboard is prone to mould and should be the innermost layer in the wall buildup. You can either remove it or live with it. Why not leave this until summer and see how it is?

I have just had a quick look at the plans. The fact that this is a conversion makes it more unpredictable. I guess it is not possible to demolish and start again?

I would pay the architect for the work done to date and get others to do the technical design. I think around £2,500-£3,000 /m2 should be achievable. I often use different architects for planning and building regs.

What a great plot! I understand the attraction of oak. It is a traditional natural material. Sadly for a house structure it does not work well as it is hard to achieve decent insulation and airtightness. There are loads of other options, so keep an open mind. You could always have an oak framed workshop / garage if you have the space.

If it is a solid external wall with no DPC, then yes. If the wall is completely dry and has a DPC and a cavity then no. Other situations will be maybe.

If you are able to do this without severe planning implications then I would 100% recommend you do.

+1 Any no more flexi please.

That is a plastic dry verge and concrete ridge tiles. The biggest issue is safe access.

It is a concrete screed 50-75mm thick with light mesh. You can use fibres instead but no point as it makes it harder work. If you lay it well you can tile straight onto it.

Surely it would be simpler just to make a few holes or leave the trickle vent open and retest.

For a couple of jobs I have specced Weber LAC and mesh onto cement type boards, sponge finished then painted. 6mm thick. It has stood the test of time. Thin coat beads. Material costs are about £12/m2.

I have used Lead R which is a bit like flashband but tougher and a darker colour. Take your time to mark and cut the pieces and it should look OK. That flashband looks awful.