Mr Punter

You can use normal wall ties with the full fill insulation boards. You need to really take care to clean up the snots and keep the cavity clean.

If there is a surface water sewer in the street than that may be the best option. Did you get 3 quotes for the £18,000? What is the soil permeability like (clay, chalk, sand etc)?

You should be able to do this without planning consent.

What about a piece of timber? 4 x 2?

You may be able to extend at the side if you set the extension back. It would be worth exposing the sewer pipe so you can see the actual depth and location.

What about piles and ground beams with beam and block floor? It may save time and money and it is widely used.

I think you may be best ordering in 2 hits. The supplier may not want to be held to a price for a future order. If they turn up before you need them they will get in the way and could be damaged.

No issue with what you are suggesting. Sometimes the permanent live is wired to the switch, sometimes to the fitting / ceiling rose.

Yes they are upside down, inviting water into the cavity. A right fiddle to replace.

Maybe they are busy with other customers? It can take a while to get design information together. If they are a one man band they may not be able to respond to emails, texts and phone calls. Did you get other quotes? What does your architect think?

Drained ventilated cavity, much loved by warranty providers. Other than that, none I can think of. No, up to 80. Many over 100. You would need to price it up. I have not found brickwork to be expensive v. cladding. I imagine there are a number of wall tie options, either embedded pre-pour or post installed. This would be one for your engineer. Not really. Fibre cement and ali have coatings that deteriorate.

If you have room on the foundation, brickwork or rendered blockwork can be cheaper than cladding and should meet all your priorities.

A small amount of water ingress where you have a high water table is standard. Some of the plastic chambers have rubber seals that can be fitted between the risers, but they can be pain to fit. Regarding heights, it may have been best to have proper drawings based on a topo survey, with heights and inverts marked, but you would probably be up for an extra £1.5k in fees. Since the IC is between the back of the garage and a hedge I don't think it will matter. Also, better higher, so it does not become buried in the undergrowth should you need to access it. It may be worth you suspending work and employing a surveyor or site agent to do a fortnightly check in a Clerk of Works type role.

The discs that you slide up and bend over are a giveaway.

The weight of the frame is mostly resting on the 200mm polystyrene. You could extend this or move is outward by 74mm and finish with the same ali sheet you propose elsewhere.

I can't work out what the materials are. What are they where you don't have a door?

From tales of your previous tenants it could be wee...

If the breaker is 32amp you can use your new dual appliance outlet. The induction will draw max 15 amp and I guess the oven is likewise. They will only very rarely both be going full tilt.

Could it be condensation? If the room is occupied it could be generating a fair bit of moisture. Would a dehumidifier help?

Is the damp evident on the dining room side?

This does not sound like a formal refusal. They normally quote which policies it would be contrary to. You could appeal.

When the wall is dry you could apply a coat of StormDry. It should last 25 years and keep the wall dry while still allowing evaporation.

The timber frame will shrink as it dries, moving downward compared to the stone, especially on upper floors. The detail needs to accommodate this differential movement. Compriband sealing tape is often preferred over mastic as it offers more flexibility.

Maybe have a good count up of your fingers this evening, just to be sure!

You could cut the top and add a newel turn - have a look at Richard Burbidge.