jack

The track saw really helped with this. I can't recommend them highly enough for anyone planning to make furniture (or anything else needing clean, sharp cuts) from sheet materials.

I acquired something very similar from the old garage that was on my property when we moved in. Cleaned it up, sharpened it, and had a great time playing about with it until I decided to grab a tough clump of grass with the other hand to help things along. Very nasty gash on the back of my finger was the result, but it could have been a lot worse...

Planning is one thing, theft is another. Even if they get retrospective planning for this error, it doesn't address the fact that it's built on someone else's land.

I thought I'd mentioned it above, but it appears not (maybe I mentioned it on another thread). For the avoidance of any doubt, I didn't make the drawers, they're Ikea! I just boxed them in. One day when I have more time (and experience!), I'll replace the innards with proper drawers. The Ikea ones aren't very deep, aren't full extension, and generally just feel unpleasant to use.

Hi again Here's what I did. (Ignore the dust and threads - I've just finished refitting the carpet) I have to say that even though I got oak faced birch plywood that was specifically stated as being suitable for use with exposed edges, there's a lot of uneven colouring in the ply layers that I wasn't expecting. I'm sure some of it was me getting used to the tracksaw I bought to do the project (darkening due to heat) but I don't think that explains it all The oak veneer looked okay though. It comes in an A side and B side - the B side definitely didn't come up as nicely in a few areas but I was mostly able to position that out of sight.

Yup, completely toothless.

We're not after sliding doors though. We'd like a pair of hinged doors on each aperture (a single door won't really work on one side, in particular, due to window location).

I'll grab a photo later today.

Very interesting, thanks. I'll take a look - if you have pointers to any particular artisans, please share (via PM if you'd rather not say in the main forum). Yes, the cheap standard sized doors being so insanely cheap compared to bespoke is partly why I'm so frustrated by the situation. Fabricator is definitely a possibility, and something we'll end up doing if I can't find a company who'll do it for a reasonable price. Unfortunately, there's no upper door frame in these apertures - they go right to the 2850 ceilings, so we'd be talking some very tall doors if there's no top panel.

They won't give it up burning stuff for environmental reasons, or for the impact on the health of their families and neighbours. Why would they worry about what looks like a fairly toothless law?

Check out the Garden Law forum. Not sure about covenants, but they deal with boundaries, easements etc.

My wife's family has a plant hire business. They've had their best year, including a couple of their best months, in the 25+ years they've been operating. Amazing given building wasn't happening for some of that period.

Given your username, are you sure it's a golf club?

That's a very short loop compared to the others. I know you're running this all as one zone, but why not make the WC loop an extension of one of the shorter loops? And what about routing around your comms room so that it isn't heated (although if you plan on cooling the slab in summer, it might help there!) Re: the gym, I can't imagine working out in a well-insulated house. It's amazing how warm you get even just moving stuff around. I was in our bedroom yesterday installing some shelves and it was borderline unpleasant even though the room was probably only 21 or 22 degrees. I guess you can turn the heating off or down on that loop if needed.

1-wire sensors work best if you run them on a bus topology rather than star. One approach is bring each conduit up from the slab within a nearby internal wall or service void on an external wall, so that it finishes behind a small access plate (behind a door so it's out of sight). You then run a bus cable from Loxone, then access plate to access plate, terminating each 1-wire sensor cable to the bus behind its corresponding access plate. Having a few short stubs off a bus is far less problematic than having a full star topology, and the access panels allow replacement if necessary. Powering them independently rather than parasitically helps. All that said, if you're only running a small number of sensors, star layout might be fine. Mine is a combination of star and bus with stubs (only about 5 sensors in all) and it works fine. Unfortunately, one failed fairly early on and is in an inaccessible place, so I had to just cut it loose. Wish I'd had the foresight to use spare UFH conduit in the way you're proposing! I bought these in 2017 and they seem to work fine: https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00CHEZ250/ (no guarantees you'll get the same stock several years later, of course).

I've got one sitting on top of the slab under my kitchen island, held in place by an offcut of insulation and half a brick on top! Could've drilled a hole for it, but it needed doing fast. Maybe you'll get better functionality if you bury the sensor deeper?

Welcome to BuildHub. If planning isn't doing anything about it, I'd just ignore it for the moment. You'll have plenty of notice if things get serious, and I wouldn't make any effort until that happens.

Harsh but fair.

You have to let us know what happens in the end!!!

Exactly this. A letter from a solicitor shows you've taken advice and are willing to spend money to defend your rights. Don't underestimate the impact of a formal letter on the average chancer.

I doubt it will be protracted. If everything you've said is correct, I don't see that the neighbour has a leg to stand on. Initiating legal action will be expensive for them, and the first thing a solicitor is going to tell the neighbour is how weak their case is.

I know it's a time and energy (edited to add: and money!) sink, but there's absolutely no way I could let this behaviour stand. I'd be in contact with a solicitor who knows about these things, and getting a letter sent with the relevant threats about trespass, and I wouldn't be giving up a single millimetre. If he has to do anything to things on your land (plants, a hedge, a fence) to do this marking out, I'd also be raising the prospect of criminal damage.

You're right that Wunda is thinking about spacing for a normal building regs (at best) house. I believe just about everyone (including me) on here with an MBC slab has 200mm spacing, and I don't recall any complaints.

That's crazy. Did he completely lack curiosity? When we moved into the run-down bungalow we eventually knocked down to build our house, I was more excited about going through the garage full of old crap that hadn't been touched in decades than anything else.

Not sure, I never had enough waste of this sort to make it necessary to find out. This was in Sydney, Australia, where it's been at least 20 years since you could visit a tip without paying a substantial fee.