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Everything posted by marshian
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Radiators needed for ASHP and UFH?
marshian replied to YorkieSelfBuild's topic in Air Source Heat Pumps (ASHP)
I assumed Glock or some other sidearm -
Radiators needed for ASHP and UFH?
marshian replied to YorkieSelfBuild's topic in Air Source Heat Pumps (ASHP)
Yeah years ago I’d pay to search companies house for home addresses of directors and send them a letter to arrive with their cornflakes - life is different now -
Radiators needed for ASHP and UFH?
marshian replied to YorkieSelfBuild's topic in Air Source Heat Pumps (ASHP)
Adam runs Heat Geek - you can contact him via the heat geek web page - he's pretty passionate about installs if any "heat Geek" accredited installer is over sizing a unit I reckon he'd be wanting to understand why -
Radiators needed for ASHP and UFH?
marshian replied to YorkieSelfBuild's topic in Air Source Heat Pumps (ASHP)
looks like they are trying to comply with MCS grant rules with what they are suggesting ping an email to Adam he’d probably respond with some advice -
It was really a rhetorical question rather than an actual question - but thanks to those who responded
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Yes I do - actually every damn rad dimensions and T50 output is in a spreadsheet I used it when I was working with the heat loss v rad output at various flow temps to work out where I needed to target the flow temp for the weather compensation at -2.4 Deg OAT Some of the individual rads I've tweaked the flow rates from where it was but overall system balance has remained the same. Front Hall, Toilet, Utility and Study remain on scheduled heating (heat loos of those rooms is a lot more because 3 external walls all on north facing side of the house All other rooms 24/7 Heat loss is overstated due to the software wanting higher ACH than I was comfortable with..... I also utterly badgered the dining room calc gave it a vaulted ceiling with no heated room above - Ooops True heat loss is absolute max 4.0kWh at -2.4 Deg C OAT (probably 3.6 kWh based on actual energy used if my monitoring is more accurate) Rooms & Rads.xlsx
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Former yes - Latter no TRV don’t intervene on majority of rooms - WC flow temp and elevated room targets that cannot be hit with WC flow temp and heat loss of the rooms. So cycling was down to the house/rads not getting rid of the energy in the circuit. was first warm night 8.5 deg C so boiler flow temp would have been 26-27 deg C max and heat loss of the house maybe around 1.6 kWh (so on that basis I’d expect the boiler to fire for 15mins in the hour minus temps over night and it’s firing 45 mins in the hour the 9 cycles might be a one off or I may need to tweak the curve a bit more to align (lower) the flow temps at higher OAT
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Typically my delta at the boiler is 5.5 to 7.0 max Start of burn it's wider, just before the boiler shuts down it's narrower - I tend to quote only the narrow end or give an average Last night it had a much cooler circuit to start from I might have to up the pump speed by one as between midnight and 8am the boiler fired 9 times compared to it's normal 7 or 8 max
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I really like this idea - however when I was fine tuning my radiator flow rates I stuck matt black insulation tape on them so I could get a more accurate reading from the IR thermometer - Mrs Alien was not happy with "the look" so they didn't stay on there long - apparently they lost adhesion and she picked them off the floor and put them in the bin and I wasn't to do it again The description "Who is this for? These instructions are for ONLY if you: ● Have a gas condensing combi boiler. ● Do NOT have a hot water tank. ● Have no one ill or very young or very old in your home. ● Are willing to help us with an experiment to help save gas." Needs a bit of an update - they would also be suitable for any boiler set up with DHWP (with a HW Tank) and Weather compensated CH flow temps
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Actually before that - the data doesn't show a two storey extension we threw up on the back of the house increasing the footprint and increasing the number of external walls on two large rooms It was built to building regs at the time so I expect a small increase in energy usage but I got a surprise it went up a lot That set me on the path of improvements to fabric and optimisation of boiler (eventually replacing a boiler which was no longer well matched to the house heat loss and cycled like crazy) I'm pretty sure it's 80/20 (fabric/boiler) - energy usage has actually gone up for 2025 (prob 10%) I'm heating 24/7 with WC for CH and DHWP (previous to this I was heating to a schedule) Room temps are higher than when I was heating to a schedule - comfort factor is much better I'm now in the final stages of increasing loft insulation from 70mm to 370 mm (long story not for this thread) so I hope that next winter the benefits will show up in a reduction of energy usage
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Actually that might not be representative as the boiler was off for an hour while I fugged about swapping the pump and then played with the settings to get the data
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28.9 flow 20.4 9 out of 13 rads in circuit
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DAB pump swapped back in On PP setting (3 speed selection) CH Proportional differential pressure regulation Speed Watts Head (m) m3/Hr 1 6.5 1.3 0.4 2 9.3 1.9 0.5 3 17.0 3.4 0.5 On PP setting with the optional 6 speed selection CH Proportional differential pressure regulation Speed Watts Head (m) m3/Hr 1 6.5 1.3 0.4 2 8.5 1.7 0.4 3 9.5 1.9 0.5 4 10.0 2.0 0.5 5 11.0 2.2 0.5 6 17.0 3.4 0.5 I've set it to PP2 (of 6) Sitting in the living room all I can hear is the wall clock ticking...............
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https://www.tomato.energy/ why would they not be accepting new customers?
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Removing tree ear marked for retention
marshian replied to flanagaj's topic in General Self Build & DIY Discussion
Did have a 16" diameter............. Surely it's already fallen down in the breeze last week???? -
Yes regardless of the mode selected - all three parameters are displayed
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They aren't specified in the manual - I'm taking an educated punt Not difficult to establish the settings - the pump will tell me what they are Just need to start it on the lowest of the 6 and give 5 mins between each change to stabilise the pump
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Yep I get that you are using the std 3 settings I'm just musing that 0.4m3/hr might be a smidge lower than the old grundfos - now that might be perfect but and on the basis that the six settings might give a finer control 1 of 3 = 1 of 6 2 of 3 = 3 of 6 3 of 3 = 6 of 6 Then maybe 4 of 6 closer to the 0.48 of the old grundfos pump
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I do get the more comfortable element but I'm not sure the cheaper to run is correct - You are replacing the heat loss of a property no matter what heat source is used the cost in energy will be the same - only time you are going to save is if the comfort factor allows you to run lower room temps (hence lower heat loss)
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Yep I think I was right Couldn't find pump curves for these settings but I'm going to assume that it gives a finer level of step than the std 3 positions
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No such thing
