marshian

How can anyone in their right mind call a pickup with a V8 up front "pointless tat" It's a totally practical vehicle

Found the pictures I wanted When we bought the house this was the HW and CH timer It was fine for years until someone used the toaster that lived under it without bothering to move it forward - the resulted melted mess necessitated replacement I fitted this Danfoss Unit It came with an Industry std backplate (often called universal backplate cos that's molded into it too) Eventually it died - kept losing display and sometimes the programme So I purchased a Wiser Hub, 13 "smart" TRVs and a "smart" Roomstat there is nothing "smart" about any of it but the fact I could fit the Wiser Hub on the existing backplate with no changes of wiring was a big plus for me

If manufacturers don't use universal back plates I wouldn't use them out of principle you shouldn't need to be an electrician to change a controller. My old Danfoss programmer from the mid 90's was on a universal back plate and I remember well the headache I can converting to that from an old clockwork timer (if anyone remembers them) But when it died and I changed to a Wiser system all I had to do was 1. power down. 2. Loosen two screws under the Danfoss unit to remove it from the backplate 3. Replace with the Wiser Hub 4. Do up two screws 5. Power Up 6. Connect the hub to the Wifi 7. Pair the "Smart" TRV's 8. Pair the "Roomstat" 9. Set up the schedule for one room and copy to all the other rooms Absolute doddle to do.

OK that’s absolutely fine - I just wanted to ensure that you weren’t equating “smart” with “energy saving” If your honeywell controller was installed at same time and is hopefully on a universal back plate and if TADO units use the same it should be plug and play

What’s the driver for wanting go change the control system? how old is the boiler? The boiler has a fairly hefty min output of 11.9 kWh - I think it would have to be a very poorly insulated 3 bed semi to need that level of min output?

Again a little harsh but fair

I believe it's called "old skool" but yes it works and you do have to be a bit quick and accurate - I'm not brave enough to do a stopcock this way but I did do an outside tap once because the street shut off valve was 15 inches deep in dirty smelly water 🙂 I'll save @SteamyTea the job of posting this 😉

Harsh but fair

Don't worry about the bug @Dee @Dee I only get one notification no matter how many times you tag me Now what did the lock shield valve look like internally - was the seat distorted or the actuator detached because I don't think the leak you wanted to fix was the issue with the rads heating..................

OK so the next logical step is to see what the valves on each end of the bypass rad are doing - if one end has a knob on it and the other a cap cover remove the cap cover count the turns to fully closed Count the turns from closed to fully open Post up the results - it could be that this rad is allowing too much flow back to the boiler effectively slowing down house/rads warm up I get the personal preference element but if the circuit is running at that temp unless the house is absolutely massive and has a horrendous heat loss when it's up to temp the boiler is going to cycle a lot 44% of 35kW is 15.4 kWh - that is pretty heavy usage!!! Sometimes you can view it in the boiler parmeters menu Below 54 deg is essential for condensing 73 deg flow some boilers get upset if the return flow is greater than 20 -25 deg C so I'd guess your return once house is up to temp would be between 48 and 53 Deg C so only just scraping into condensing mode so running at maybe 90% efficiency as opposed to a 55 deg flow and a 35 Deg Return returning 96% Efficiency Please do If you already have a FLIR camera then the images will tell you a lot about where the heat and the flow is moving round I never took a picture of my verticals that had a problem but the bottom rail of the rad was hot and the vertical bars were stone cold!!!! Modern TRV's that are bi-directional don't care which end they are on Vertical rads should have diverters in there to help them work in lower flow temp systems Good manufacturers clearly mark up the position of the diverter, the in and out One of the pages of instructions with my big double vertical is below as you can hopefully see the instruction are very specific

Are all your rads on pipework above the skirting? Only thinking back to your balancing issues it should be relatively easy to draw up a flow and return schematic?

Oh I'd have laughed about that one too (in sympathy * rather than at you) * Note - I left a valve on a "magnaclean assembly" not fully open once - Boiler didn't like that at all - luckily it was the previous boiler cos it didn't half kettle when it tried to run!!!

From a post from @EinTopaz above

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eqf7A00XXTU

Lot to go at there............. For a boiler to get to 70 deg flow really quickly yet the rads don't get there as fast is a bit odd - have you got an ABV in circuit that is allowing too much flow back to the boiler?? Why are you running the CH circuit at 70 deg C - that's way too high to get condensing benefit Whats the return temp coming back to the boiler? Could you list out Room / Rad Type / Size / Comment By comment I mean if it's a rad affected or one that seems to be fine all the time Vertical Rads are a whole different ball game if they don't have diverters in them If you can borrow a thermal camera it might give you some good clues on the flow internally thro the rad Below is one of my K22 or K33 rads running on a flow temp of ~30 Deg C And here is one of my vertical rads (with the modification internally) Below is a link to the issues I had with 2 vertical rads that were fitted with a diverter

Whole load of pain in that picture - my sympathies. You haven't fitted a water softener in the last 12 mths have you? I had a similar experience with my cold water store tank when I fitted one - the softened water removed some limescale that had clearly built up over a while sealing up a leak

Which specific model? Max Heat Output? Do you still have the installation manual for it? (because if you do that will tell you exactly what min modulation is) If I look on line for installation manuals - the range of min modulation across different version is pretty damn large - Some have min modulation of 3.7 kW on CH others are as high as 11kW depending on the Version (Peak Output) IMO you will struggle if your actual boiler doesn't modulate down to a min of around 5kW - you'll almost certainly need a volumiser to keep cycling to a minimum. Many Combi boilers have massive heat outputs to meet the needs of HW but this compromises the space heating side (CH) of the boiler.

Jesus - that's shocking - surely the set up can be easily changed to a lower flow temp is it a combi, system or heat only?

I have plume management kit on my viessmann boiler 1m height because I wanted to fit a car port on the side of the house - old boiler I couldn't get a plume management kit so boiler replacement was the only option It's 90 deg to the house wall - It also has a cctv camera looking down that wall to see the garage cctv camera is just below the 5.2 on the image above looking back at the attached garage You can clearly see the plume management pipe in white Only when I'm doing the HW cycle does the camera pick up the plume (DHWP so it does it at 80 deg flow and max kW) Rest of the time there is no plume at all because the flue temp is 24-26 deg C (Flow temp max 32 deg C return temp ~26 Deg C) I think if you have issues with excessive plumes from the flue then you might be running the boiler a bit hotter than you need to

On PP3 (out of 6) I've been checking pump parameters and I'm seeing variation from 0.3 m3/hr to 0.6 m3/hr on the same setting (ie unchanged) I maybe expect a smidge more flow when all rads are in circuit and maybe a smidge less flow when it's just the 24/7 rads in circuit but not that level of change....... I need to get my head round the PP element of pump control

Wrote a long reply and for some reason the forum or I had a blip and it never posted.......... Rooms/areas highlighted in are the hallway, stairwell and upstairs landings - they are all supplied by one ground floor rad I've amended the file to clarify which rads are 24/7 and which rads are scheduled (so only heated when needed) Rooms & Rads.xlsx Well I'm not following that and I need to get my head round it One thing I have noticed is on PP3/6 the m3/hr number varies a lot - can be as low as 0.3 m3/hr to as much as 0.6 m3/hr which is also confusing me!!

This thread is going off on a bit of a tangent PS I really don't see the issue - good use of an otherwise underutilised space

Looks to me like it could go higher (anticlockwise)

Adjusting the flush volume for short flush and long flush get them in the right orientation and the flushes are both the same volume (expletive deleted)ing hate modern toilet flushes that are supposed to save water with a 3 L short flush and a 6 L full flush - no-one ever uses the short flush and it won’t clear a good piss from the pan and don’t get me started on a number 2 that needs 2 full flushes to clear the pan give me an old ceiling level thunderflush any day

Which is exactly why the internet is bloody wonderful 😉