marshian

Just make sure that they are suitable for the flow temps and that they don't introduce any restriction to flow Isolator valves like the "screw driver" type isolation valves can be incredibly restrictive hence the need for "full bore" type

I think @Nickfromwales meant this style

My utility room has no extraction - it has an opening window (no trickle vent) that is never opened, there is a sink with H&C taps, freezer, fridge, washing machine, old school tumble dryer that is vented straight out thro the wall It's been like that for 34 years we have lived here - tumble drier was purchased in the 1980's We have zero mould, damp or any humidity issues so based on your statement I must be incredibly fortunate to have escaped this situation.

Enjoy the people watching 😉 Thank you if you do have chance

Probably one for @SteamyTea or @John Carroll If I have a fixed flow rate of 0.5 m3 / Hr thro a heating circuit A heat loss of 1.0 kWh shared across all the heat emitters in the circuit A boiler which (after initial fire and ramp down) is putting 4.0 kWh into the circuit The circuit starting temp of 20.5 deg C And when it reaches 32 Deg C (boiler overshoot temp) Just trying to get straight in my head what length of "run time" I should expect I know if I have a heat loss of 1.0 kWh and a heat input of 4.0 kWh then I should expect the boiler to run for less than 25% of the available time. So ideally 1 x 15 mins in an hour but I'm trying to work out if 15 mins in an hour is possible mathematically based on the ability of the circuit to take that heat or if mathematically the likelihood is two burns of 6 ish mins Circuit volume is 130 Litres if that helps?

Not quite sure what the question is but my experience with Wiser hubs is that the hub needs to be told what the heating supply is from memory options are direct electric boiler gas boiler (with or without opentherm) oil boiler ASHP not sure you can tell the hub you have two heating sources???

Great work - I like that idea a lot

Just to add before I had WC control of flow temps I was manually adjusting flow temps on the boiler - roughly in line with Autumn 45 - 50 Deg C Winter 50 - 60 Deg C (really cold days I'd have to bump it up to 65 Deg C) Spring 45 - 50 Deg C My old boiler min flow temp was 39 deg C but practically it was effectively 45 deg C as a lowest flow temp Occasional colder days in the shoulder seasons where I needed to put a bit of heat in the house I'd just boost the heating for an hour at 50 deg Despite insulation improvements parts of my house do need heating unless outside temps are consistently above 16.5 deg C South facing side is normally fine - sunshine on that side means living room, Dining room and two bedrooms will soak up some solar gain and need minimal contribution from CH circuit during daytime North side is not so good and temps in study, bedroom, kitchen, toilet, utility, front hall, both bathrooms and the hallway, stairs and landing all can be 4 to 5 deg lower in daylight hours.

Not showing much of a temp gradient either.............. Not exactly what I would expect to see but they are heating up evenly and a vertical rad will do that at high temps even if there is no baffle/diverter - the hot water wants to rise above the cold so you'll get a very similar picture. It's exactly the problem I had with a couple of verticals - at 55 deg flow temps they heated up nicely but as I dropped the flow temps to 40 deg it became really clear that there was an issue with the baffle as the heat differential wasn't big enough and the flow to fast for the hotter water to have time to rise. Can you run the boiler at a lower flow temp and do the pictures again - maybe down at 40 deg - that should provide a better picture Now I know I'm using low flow temps to heat my house (32 deg C max) but the above is a large vertical and shows clearly the impact of the diverter. At this time of year your heat losses should be much lower so 73 deg flow temp is just going to drive room overheat or if TRV controlled rooms a circuit shrinking and boiler cycling (all of which is bad for energy consumption)

One thing I really admire about the French is if they don't like a rule or a law they don't take any notice of it They are also bloody good at making very effective protests where we just tut and carry on having been (expletive deleted)ed with no lube

Or even your thermal camera wil give you a half decent answer 😉 Ahh I'm so familar with this symptom - it's very common on Glow-worm or Valiant - I reckon the boiler is not liking the delta (difference between flow and return) it's seeing being way above 20 deg C Example Cold start lets say circuit temp is 20 deg C (Rads same temps as rooms) - Boiler fires up and gives the circuit 75-85 of max output and boiler set point is 73 Deg so hits that temp. It's a big circuit will a lot of rads - return doesn't rise very quickly and the boiler is seeing 20 deg still - Delta is 53 Deg C As a result the boiler either shuts down or throttles back to min modulation - flow temp drops down to 40's and the boiler waits to put more energy into the circuit when the return temps start to rise before adding more heat again Several ways to delay with this - one is drop the target flow temp so the delta isn't so big but you clearly don't want to do that Boiler isn't happy - may even be the case that the flow temp displayed isn't the flow temp being sent out of the boiler I'm not a gas engineer (just an enthusiast that quite likes the mechanics of house heating systems and I quite like reading boiler manuals) but I really don't think that is a very good idea and you could potentially damage the heat exchanger as a result of the thermal shock or the large temp differential.

Yeah regardless of the flow temp they show whats going on flow wise inside a rad Good news that they are fitted - hopefully they are better quality than two I bought from a different manufacturer I'm still surprised that you need that high a flow temp unless you are heating to a schedule (ie morning on - daytime off and evening on) I'll cover the boiler issue in a separate reply You can do either (or both equally because towel rails are a PITA) I'd feel the pipes to see which one gets hot first and throttle that one back

ahh a man with good tastes and a vehicle for all occasions I don’t own a diesel (never owned one) or a van but I normally get away with roof racks for large stuff cars 2 x 3.0 12v Opel straight sixes 1 x Vauxhall 3.6 twin turbo straight six 1 x BMW 2 door coupe 3.0 24v 1 x Mercedes AMG 5.4?V8 bikes 2 x Kawasaki 4 pots 600 and 1000 cc 1 x BMW 4 pot 1200cc 1 x Suzuki 2 pot (with 350 YPVS conversion) I really need to slim the fleet

We have 12 - only 2 are used - "Cool Wash - Rapid" and "Boil Wash - Max heat" Stops the washing machine getting smelly when that cycle is used once a month

That sounds like a very sensible solution I can see that being followed to the letter by the French 😉

How can anyone in their right mind call a pickup with a V8 up front "pointless tat" It's a totally practical vehicle

Found the pictures I wanted When we bought the house this was the HW and CH timer It was fine for years until someone used the toaster that lived under it without bothering to move it forward - the resulted melted mess necessitated replacement I fitted this Danfoss Unit It came with an Industry std backplate (often called universal backplate cos that's molded into it too) Eventually it died - kept losing display and sometimes the programme So I purchased a Wiser Hub, 13 "smart" TRVs and a "smart" Roomstat there is nothing "smart" about any of it but the fact I could fit the Wiser Hub on the existing backplate with no changes of wiring was a big plus for me

If manufacturers don't use universal back plates I wouldn't use them out of principle you shouldn't need to be an electrician to change a controller. My old Danfoss programmer from the mid 90's was on a universal back plate and I remember well the headache I can converting to that from an old clockwork timer (if anyone remembers them) But when it died and I changed to a Wiser system all I had to do was 1. power down. 2. Loosen two screws under the Danfoss unit to remove it from the backplate 3. Replace with the Wiser Hub 4. Do up two screws 5. Power Up 6. Connect the hub to the Wifi 7. Pair the "Smart" TRV's 8. Pair the "Roomstat" 9. Set up the schedule for one room and copy to all the other rooms Absolute doddle to do.

OK that’s absolutely fine - I just wanted to ensure that you weren’t equating “smart” with “energy saving” If your honeywell controller was installed at same time and is hopefully on a universal back plate and if TADO units use the same it should be plug and play

What’s the driver for wanting go change the control system? how old is the boiler? The boiler has a fairly hefty min output of 11.9 kWh - I think it would have to be a very poorly insulated 3 bed semi to need that level of min output?

Again a little harsh but fair

I believe it's called "old skool" but yes it works and you do have to be a bit quick and accurate - I'm not brave enough to do a stopcock this way but I did do an outside tap once because the street shut off valve was 15 inches deep in dirty smelly water 🙂 I'll save @SteamyTea the job of posting this 😉

Harsh but fair

Don't worry about the bug @Dee @Dee I only get one notification no matter how many times you tag me Now what did the lock shield valve look like internally - was the seat distorted or the actuator detached because I don't think the leak you wanted to fix was the issue with the rads heating..................

OK so the next logical step is to see what the valves on each end of the bypass rad are doing - if one end has a knob on it and the other a cap cover remove the cap cover count the turns to fully closed Count the turns from closed to fully open Post up the results - it could be that this rad is allowing too much flow back to the boiler effectively slowing down house/rads warm up I get the personal preference element but if the circuit is running at that temp unless the house is absolutely massive and has a horrendous heat loss when it's up to temp the boiler is going to cycle a lot 44% of 35kW is 15.4 kWh - that is pretty heavy usage!!! Sometimes you can view it in the boiler parmeters menu Below 54 deg is essential for condensing 73 deg flow some boilers get upset if the return flow is greater than 20 -25 deg C so I'd guess your return once house is up to temp would be between 48 and 53 Deg C so only just scraping into condensing mode so running at maybe 90% efficiency as opposed to a 55 deg flow and a 35 Deg Return returning 96% Efficiency Please do If you already have a FLIR camera then the images will tell you a lot about where the heat and the flow is moving round I never took a picture of my verticals that had a problem but the bottom rail of the rad was hot and the vertical bars were stone cold!!!! Modern TRV's that are bi-directional don't care which end they are on Vertical rads should have diverters in there to help them work in lower flow temp systems Good manufacturers clearly mark up the position of the diverter, the in and out One of the pages of instructions with my big double vertical is below as you can hopefully see the instruction are very specific