FuerteStu

Never hotswap an rcbo having the neutral fly lead connected though.. They carry 230v potential. Can arc and give you a knock even with the breaker OFF.

Our quiz name was "Cupid Stunts" or "Siri what time is it" The second one was great for finding the cheaters In the pub using their phones..

NR34 for me.. But I have 3 kids and still have rooms to complete. Be a while before I could even think about a social life 😂😂

The thing for me is the sliders, it makes the bus bar teeth safe when disengaged, and covers the breaker terminal when engaged. The breakers clip into the board and don't need a neutral or earth fly lead for their rcbo's I've only ever seen one board with a failure, and that was due to terminals being loosely tightened. The metal and plastic seems much better quality than other brands

Ok so I work on the industrial side of things, mainly 3 phase. But the schneider acti9 isobar gear is the ultimate in reliability and safety for my 2p. The 3 phase boards have a link kit so they can be converted to single phase. So an 8 way board becomes 24 ways It's pricey though. But I guess you get what you pay for. Hager are fair, but unless you keep all the breakers perfectly square, the fronts are a bugger to get on and off without tripping breakers.... (but we all shouldn't be taking covers off live anyways)

'housing association contracts' So the cheapest materials available quickest..

Consider sub boards in the kitchen and garage/shed/outbuilding. Don't be reliant on multiple long cable runs. I've seen kitchens fed with a ring and 6 radials, all dragged through the house to a tiny space under the stairs, just whack a sub board in the kitchen and keep the runs short, it also allows for much easier renovations and additions in the future.

Brass door handles and joinery left alone have been shown to be more effective than regularly changed stainless steel. My advice, put the effort into making your body stronger and more resilient, there will always be variants of bacteria and viruses that slip through the nets. Yes diabetes can make common infections worse, but there are also diabetics who run marathons.

For me the fridge is the key feature that feels in the wrong place. Everybody talks about the oven-hob-sink being together, and rarely thinks about the 5 trips to the fridge to get things to cook, or the loading of the fridge when you get shopping. You'll want a large surface area opposite it if it has twin doors. We had limited space and opted for a peninsular rather than an island.. Narrower. But between the cooking and dining area, makes an excellent buffet area, or plating up area. If I were you, I'd get your spark to fit a smaller distribution board for the kitchen. Any additional circuits or appliances won't have to be taken back to the main board. You'll thank me in 10 years.

I also vote pressure release valve, just changed mine. £9 delivered in 48 hours, 15 minutes to drain down change and repressurise. (not suggesting you do it yourself unless you're competent though)

I know Pocster will probably just say lube is for wimps, but my door handles are only 18 months on and starting to squeak a little. I think it's the lock rather than the handles, maybe a little of both. So what's best? Oil based? Silicone? Grease? Spray or tub? Cheers in advance

Probably relying on leaking wet underfloor heating somewhere to keep resistance low.

Unless there is no other load on that circuit. It could be neutral to earth, but without load the rcd doesn't trip as there is nothing to imbalance

Yep. And if it's an rcbo, the way it trips.. A pop or bang. Is it live to earth, or neutral to earth

It's possible that's enough damage to the cable to trigger nuisance tripping. The only way to be sure is to isolate the cable and see if the problem persists.. But it could just mean you're isolating the problem that's further upstream. It's a multiple test scenario. There was a stage when the grey pvc on twin and earth broke down and left an oily residue. I think they changed the formula. It was rather tasty to our rodent friends, I've seen them strip off metre long sections, leaving only the inner cores. It doesn't take much removal to trip an rcd if there is moisture in the air, opening a section allows capillary action to trigger conductivity through what can barely be seen. If it was in the live it would just vapourise the water, but the neutral to earth allows an alternative path and the rcd doesn't like that. My suggestion, replace.. And see if it's still a problem, then investigate further.

Assuming the circuit holds, but trips when switched on, it either implies the returning 'switched live' is coming in contact with cpc (earth), or the lamp fitting itself. If its recent, my first thought rather than pest related, would be water ingress. Moisture inside the switch, or fitting. There is also the possibility of the lamp itself causing the trip. A picture of the fitting would be handy to diagnose further

Must have been a Friday afternoon job...

Just a thought.. But surely at some point it goes into a standard sized pipe. Could you not try and joint to that rather than bodge two standard fittings into each other?

Not sure if that drip would stop the whole system from working. But that isolator valve in closed position might. Can we see the whole setup? Maybe a drawing of what is where?

All I know is, if you hear a clicking sound and see a triangle of laser pointer dots... Running won't do you any good.

Feedback is irrelevant if it falls on deaf ears. Both the planning officer and myself talked to him about the refused application and he still came back with absurd designs rather than listening...

Over a years delay due to his oversight and refusal to listen to the planning officer. When planning said no the first time, (due to his dormer flat roof design being higher than the ridge) he came back with a ludicrous design that was close to a Dutch barn roof that was also refused, he then drew designs for a standard pitched roof on top of the loft conversion so the end had two gables.. I refused to let him submit those to planning and gave him my interpretation of external after a conversation with planning officer. Which was finally accepted. It was then we discovered just how impractical his original drawings were, and the ones thereafter. There were many issues. The whole project was nearly abandoned. Finally found a good SE and a Posi-joists company who managed to make it work. But by then the post-covid building material costs had doubled.

He'd spanned 6.5m with 225x45 joists for upstairs, with a "possible steel needed" in the middle, but his drawing showed the steel on an internal wall that wasn't structural.

I've fitted two outside taps this summer, front and back. Brass ones with no exposed pipework, just the brass head. I've never bothered with outside tap draindowns before. This place had one already but it will be dead soon.. And my previous two houses had them. I never drained them down either. Have I been lucky where I am (East Anglia), or are you all being extra careful?

If they are in good condition.. Sell them, Buyer collect. It's not worth the sleepless nights using something you know isn't good enough.