FuerteStu

Just a thought.. But surely at some point it goes into a standard sized pipe. Could you not try and joint to that rather than bodge two standard fittings into each other?

Not sure if that drip would stop the whole system from working. But that isolator valve in closed position might. Can we see the whole setup? Maybe a drawing of what is where?

All I know is, if you hear a clicking sound and see a triangle of laser pointer dots... Running won't do you any good.

Feedback is irrelevant if it falls on deaf ears. Both the planning officer and myself talked to him about the refused application and he still came back with absurd designs rather than listening...

Over a years delay due to his oversight and refusal to listen to the planning officer. When planning said no the first time, (due to his dormer flat roof design being higher than the ridge) he came back with a ludicrous design that was close to a Dutch barn roof that was also refused, he then drew designs for a standard pitched roof on top of the loft conversion so the end had two gables.. I refused to let him submit those to planning and gave him my interpretation of external after a conversation with planning officer. Which was finally accepted. It was then we discovered just how impractical his original drawings were, and the ones thereafter. There were many issues. The whole project was nearly abandoned. Finally found a good SE and a Posi-joists company who managed to make it work. But by then the post-covid building material costs had doubled.

He'd spanned 6.5m with 225x45 joists for upstairs, with a "possible steel needed" in the middle, but his drawing showed the steel on an internal wall that wasn't structural.

I've fitted two outside taps this summer, front and back. Brass ones with no exposed pipework, just the brass head. I've never bothered with outside tap draindowns before. This place had one already but it will be dead soon.. And my previous two houses had them. I never drained them down either. Have I been lucky where I am (East Anglia), or are you all being extra careful?

If they are in good condition.. Sell them, Buyer collect. It's not worth the sleepless nights using something you know isn't good enough.

I engaged an architect with my renovation. I seriously regretted it in every way. The drawings I gave him from my own design were virtually the same as the ones that were finally approved by planning. After his three stages and ignoring what planning recommended. (his structural engineer quoted 9k for drawings) He threatened additional fees if I no longer used him, I engaged a separate structural engineer through a family friend who looked at the drawings and said they were impossible to construct. He recommended someone else he knew to adapt my drawings. *IN MY PERSONAL EXPERIENCE* And that of many others, most architects are nothing more than money grabbing conceptual designers.. Artistic types who have very little connection or sympathy to construction or planning. If you get a gut feeling your architect is wrong.. Get a second opinion.

The metal fixings are for plasterboard.. They are designed to grip in a minimum of 9mm, usually 12mm thick gypsum wall. Not a 3mm widen fibre board off a door. The fixings from B&Q state that they are designed for exactly that purpose, I strongly suggest if you're going to use a fixing in the door, to use those.

The first are designed for plasterboard and would not be effective in such a thin skinned door. The second ones from B&q are designed to be used in a hollow door. Use those.

I don't have any pictures, sorry. It was my old house. A thicker screw with thicker thread will 'bite' Better in the thin material if the door, just be careful not to over tighten. The screw is there to clamp the plinth until the glue goes off. With all glues, most of the strength is in the way it's fixed. Two surfaces rested against each other will fail. If they're clamped, the bond is stronger.

On the 3 kids bedroom doors on the old house I fitted a nice plinth on the back of the door. 4"x 18" with no nails and a couple of thick thread wood screws to pull it tight until the glue set. On that plinth I fitted the hooks. Never had any issues at all over the years and it held lots of coats, dressing gowns, and school bags.

Probably got a sticker on one end that says [plug in this end first] to make it safe...

Go around the outside and look for cracks or replaced mortar. Check the corners of window frames inside and out. Feel for drafts around door and window frames. If there are no signs of issues, then it just just be the house was built by someone drunk. Drink, and you'll forget about the wonky house.

I bought an evolution for my loft conversion, far better than I thought it would be for the price. Just make sure you set it up and test it for the 45s and 90s. Don't assume it will be perfect out of the box, regardless of the brand

My local skip company virtually pay you for Rubble/concrete. Last 4 yard I filled 3/4 with concrete roof tiles and topped up with demolished concrete block wall cost me £35 Didn't seem to have any issues picking it up.

Surprised you needed his, considering you are your only biggest one...

I think this area is like most specialities in local authorities. Efficiency equals redundancy, inefficiency means a job for life. Time for another meeting about planning the next meeting.

I've never worked with SIPS but I can imagine there are all the variables of timber frame. But with all the mistakes and snags already covered up. As with all construction, 90% of the finish product is from the quality of the tradesman involved. It's not something you can afford to wait and find out how good they are, you need to see their work beforehand, and speak to their previous clients

Side note, I've always thought these should be fitted outside McDonald's, would save the NHS a fortune.

Absolutely despise these patresses. Crumbly sharp cable entry points, the slightest knock and they crack.. Even mounting on an uneven surface and tightening the screws can cause them to implode!

If they are round knockouts, you could use a stuffing gland for cable entry. Far cleaner looking, and at least helps the ip rating

The major issue I've seen with towers for roof access, is the climbing out and in. I've seen people kick them over as they climb out. Then you're stranded, if you're lucky. Dangling if you're not. Use the outriggers. Build higher, step off. (but once again these are temporary working platforms, not access.. ARSE COVERED)

These were my Camtile ones I ended up skipping.. Almost identical, but narrower