FuerteStu

It's a bit like lego, except none of it is compatible, the instructions are in Chinese, it keeps costing you money even when youre not building, and when you finish you'll spend your time staring at pieces of it.

Wall template?

Thanks, I did template having the 2nd step similar to the first but it just didn't look right from the sides. Felt better with it being set back and square.

I built mine from ply myself. And routed the nosing. Filled and sanded out looks and feels like solid wood but is silent. Was quoted a silly price for it, so did it myself and I'm glad I did.

I had an awkward spot to do this and used earth sleeving (16mm cable size) over the nozzle. Worked surprisingly well. Releasing the foam slowly and steadily as i pulled it out.

I'd always go for metal boxes on noggin rather than dry lining boxes. I think they are too flimsy personally. If you want a good finish, I'd highly recommend socket and switch beads before skimming. They make a fantastic finish.

Could you explain what you mean by 'treated the corroded cables'? Have you double checked the terminations in the socket you replaced? They are not always in the same places for different brands. The next step would be to split the circuit at other sockets (isolating different legs of the cables) and see if it holds.

My opinion. Ducts will always end up full of water. Nearly every single duct I've pulled through has ended up with a soaking wet cable/cobra/rope coming out the end. It's why you need cables rated for ducts (for data and coax etc) and to make sure the cables aren't dragged across sharp things in the way in. As for mains cable resting on the surface and covered over with a rotting mess.. Never in a million years. Do not do this.

Wonder how 'more wind' Factors into this map? I'm in East Anglia.. Feels about right

Never thought of doing an invisible roof before.. Looks great! Looking forward to seeing it's progress!

Smaller sizes can leave bigger lips, as the weight of the pole has a smaller surface to distribute on. Keep the twist gentle to adjust the angle for the pull and you shouldn't create suction dents or bubbles. They are surprisingly quick to get to grips with. Most the issue is trying not to bash the handle on things with the draw back. That leaves a dent.

People in the next street had ash cladding on the top half and a matching colour front door.. However, the front door that was obviously a better quality treatment still looks the same, but the top half is faded and no longer matches.. Well actually, because of the direction of the sun and the dormer only 2/3s are faded. So one side of the dormer matches the front door, and the shadows from the eaves mean it fades from grey to wood as it gets to the top. Looks a bit of a mess to be honest

It's a minefield.. For most of us, we're buying small volumes for our home builds. The professionals who do quotes deal with small margins wouldn't cover their wages by taking the time to deal with our needs and frustrating time windows and questions. That's the way I see it. For my smaller parts of the project I've swallowed the excess and used wickes and toolstation, because I go past them on a weekly/daily basis. For the big build stuff I was lucky enough to have a family member who is branch manager at Travis P... And the prices he got things for were unbelievably cheap compared to anything I found online. I ordered cladding from elsewhere and was screwed around with part deliveries that didn't colour match the rest, and Posi joists from a company that went out of their way to help me with design alterations, and be flexible with unloading by hand on site.. At every stage I've learned that dealing with a company throws a bunch of very different people under one umbrella, so no two experiences are the same for us. At times I paid through the nose, but I know that despite being in the industry, these people are making a living too. I just think of the final project, how happy I am with how it turned out, and how little it cost compared to buying a finished project from someone else.

Any chance you could speak with the neighbours and see if they've been affected? Looks like theirs is a mirror image of yours? If your side is worse than theirs, it hints that the problem is on your side. If they've got the same problem, you might find that it's a bigger issue.

We all know you bolt right after the screw.

Regardless of semantics I would contact the manufacturer.. Most will happily supply extra fixings without questions

Screws can have a shank. And lots do. To prevent lifting when fixing multiple materials

I thought the difference between a bolt and a screw was it's intended cavity... From the flat end, and pan head im guessing it has a specific depth locking point, but it doesn't look like a standard M5, M6 or M8 thread and goes into piloted timber therefore a screw.

Have you talked with other suppliers like Virgin? After months of farcical problems with OR, I'm now with V. Less that 3 weeks to install and it's been a dream by comparison

And this can happen when 5 people are plugged into splitters and extensions..

I had similar in a previous place.. Was concerned about it 'walking'. So I ran a thick bead of silicone along the edges behind the plinth. My logic was that it would form a barrier with a little bit of give in it. I'm not sure if it ever actually did anything other than give me peace of mind.

I'm a broad chested guy, my wife is generously chested too. As deep was an essential requirement, and I was amazed at how few bath manufacturers actually list the height of the overflow in their spec. I had to contact several of them to ask. It seems utterly pointless to me that some of the huge baths on the market actually can't fill as deep as some of the cheaper ones that look shallower. Filling a bath with pricey hot water, only for it to go literally down the drain.

My copper line contract ran out 3 months ago. Been waiting 2 months for fiber to be fitted. They keep sending an engineer to connect the internal without installing the fiber to the house... I'm not holding my breath, neighbours have also been waiting since may 1st for their fiber install. It's a joke.

Gut feeling, it's there the problem is.. The dropped slabs suggest there is something washing away underneath, if there's water degrading around the foundations at that point, even a slight drop would cause the gap to form 16 feet above. Effectively, the foundation joint between the house and extension is a pivot.

Sorry mate, but in my experience, cracks diagonally from doorways are a giant red flag. Water ingress is because of cracks you haven't found yet.. Not the cause of the ones you have.