FuerteStu

Smaller sizes can leave bigger lips, as the weight of the pole has a smaller surface to distribute on. Keep the twist gentle to adjust the angle for the pull and you shouldn't create suction dents or bubbles. They are surprisingly quick to get to grips with. Most the issue is trying not to bash the handle on things with the draw back. That leaves a dent.

People in the next street had ash cladding on the top half and a matching colour front door.. However, the front door that was obviously a better quality treatment still looks the same, but the top half is faded and no longer matches.. Well actually, because of the direction of the sun and the dormer only 2/3s are faded. So one side of the dormer matches the front door, and the shadows from the eaves mean it fades from grey to wood as it gets to the top. Looks a bit of a mess to be honest

It's a minefield.. For most of us, we're buying small volumes for our home builds. The professionals who do quotes deal with small margins wouldn't cover their wages by taking the time to deal with our needs and frustrating time windows and questions. That's the way I see it. For my smaller parts of the project I've swallowed the excess and used wickes and toolstation, because I go past them on a weekly/daily basis. For the big build stuff I was lucky enough to have a family member who is branch manager at Travis P... And the prices he got things for were unbelievably cheap compared to anything I found online. I ordered cladding from elsewhere and was screwed around with part deliveries that didn't colour match the rest, and Posi joists from a company that went out of their way to help me with design alterations, and be flexible with unloading by hand on site.. At every stage I've learned that dealing with a company throws a bunch of very different people under one umbrella, so no two experiences are the same for us. At times I paid through the nose, but I know that despite being in the industry, these people are making a living too. I just think of the final project, how happy I am with how it turned out, and how little it cost compared to buying a finished project from someone else.

Any chance you could speak with the neighbours and see if they've been affected? Looks like theirs is a mirror image of yours? If your side is worse than theirs, it hints that the problem is on your side. If they've got the same problem, you might find that it's a bigger issue.

We all know you bolt right after the screw.

Regardless of semantics I would contact the manufacturer.. Most will happily supply extra fixings without questions

Screws can have a shank. And lots do. To prevent lifting when fixing multiple materials

I thought the difference between a bolt and a screw was it's intended cavity... From the flat end, and pan head im guessing it has a specific depth locking point, but it doesn't look like a standard M5, M6 or M8 thread and goes into piloted timber therefore a screw.

Have you talked with other suppliers like Virgin? After months of farcical problems with OR, I'm now with V. Less that 3 weeks to install and it's been a dream by comparison

And this can happen when 5 people are plugged into splitters and extensions..

I had similar in a previous place.. Was concerned about it 'walking'. So I ran a thick bead of silicone along the edges behind the plinth. My logic was that it would form a barrier with a little bit of give in it. I'm not sure if it ever actually did anything other than give me peace of mind.

I'm a broad chested guy, my wife is generously chested too. As deep was an essential requirement, and I was amazed at how few bath manufacturers actually list the height of the overflow in their spec. I had to contact several of them to ask. It seems utterly pointless to me that some of the huge baths on the market actually can't fill as deep as some of the cheaper ones that look shallower. Filling a bath with pricey hot water, only for it to go literally down the drain.

My copper line contract ran out 3 months ago. Been waiting 2 months for fiber to be fitted. They keep sending an engineer to connect the internal without installing the fiber to the house... I'm not holding my breath, neighbours have also been waiting since may 1st for their fiber install. It's a joke.

Gut feeling, it's there the problem is.. The dropped slabs suggest there is something washing away underneath, if there's water degrading around the foundations at that point, even a slight drop would cause the gap to form 16 feet above. Effectively, the foundation joint between the house and extension is a pivot.

Sorry mate, but in my experience, cracks diagonally from doorways are a giant red flag. Water ingress is because of cracks you haven't found yet.. Not the cause of the ones you have.

Awesome. Got a draw wire down the length of it that's got a 10mm diameter head with ease. I'll sweep the bend through the outside wall, just chase a section upwards from the penetration. I think this will work way better than 20mm conduit to be honest, as it's a continuous run. Cheers all

So my new fibre line install is going to be 'on a suitable outside wall at the front'.. About 5 metres from my telecoms area with my switch panel. I've spoken to a guy who surveys the install (virgin, not Openreach) and they've said they don't mind a short containment run as long as it's in place in advance with a draw wire. I said I'd do it in 20mm conduit, but I noticed I've got 8 metres of 15 pex Speedfit sitting there doing nothing.. Surely that's a better option right? Smoother interior, no couplers needed? Anyone know of a reason why not? It's going up a boxed in riser that takes my outside tap feed, through 4 metres of loft and down into the IT cupboard.

I've used these in the past for downlighters. They are bloody brilliant as it creates a really solid opening.

If you can't swing a few CATs, then we didn't selfbuild big enough!

7 TVs in the house so far, 5 people.. if only 4 of them are streaming 4k that's one hell of a bottleneck on the WiFi. Hardwired TVs mean less issues with all the other 50 devices.

I have one 24 port switch in my plant room (cabinet with the consumer unit in the hall).. One day I might get around to labelling it all before I forget what codes I used for all the runs 😂

For me it isn't just the immediate benefits and cost savings.. I know that if something goes wrong in 5 or 10 years time, I'll have photos of the work done and a memory of where things are and there's a very good chance I can save myself a bucket in fixing it myself, or at the worst be able to point someone else to exactly where the issue is.

Doesn't look too unnatural compared to some staircases I've seen.. I built my own because the quotes were coming out insane for mine. But they were an unusual shape and design

I did the garage conversion floor in dry sand and cement mix.. Mixed on the driveway by a volumetric mixer. I calculated I needed 1.8m2, asked for 2 to be safe. Used a laser level and wheelbarrow.. Got it done in about 3 hours. However, the guy must have just emptied his wagon... It was the day before Xmas eve. I had over 2m2 left over on the driveway. Filled up two tonnebags with it and built a ramp to the front door as well.. Had to get a skip in the new year to get rid of it all.. That was the worst part of it all. If you want tips on doing it yourself I worked out a few.

Do we get to name the podcast? I vote for "needs more duck tape"