FuerteStu

I bullseyed a copper pipe that was less that 5mm deep in the floor screed while fixing a footplate to close up a doorway after joining up shower/toilet separates. Managed to do it at 9pm one night, all hell broke loose, including the stopcock handle breaking off when I tried to isolate. One thing with renovations, if it can go wrong, it usually will at the worst time possible!

I've seen plastic conduit lengths and potatoes used to make a gazebo in a back garden party once. Was actually incredibly effective

Very possible! Just concerned about the amount of thread on the 1.75" side..

Got an 1.5" basin sink waste into 1.75" trap. Was thinking such a simple adapter would be easy to find, but alas I'm only finding the wrong sizes, or reverse threads (female to male instead of male to female etc) I've already got 1.75"pipe and AAV coming up under the sink.. Would it just be better to get another trap and reduce it there? Or can anyone find something like the macalpine T16 that's actually the right size?

How much would the same surface area of brickwork weigh? .... At some point a structural engineer would have signed off if the designs? No?

With old (and possibly rusty) Allen key grub screws, a flat head screwdriver about the same size and a few gentle taps with a hammer force it in so it can be undone

I always remember the saying of an old chippy I used to work with.. "jobs only as good as your pencil is sharp" The more precise the mark, the better the finish.

Governments usually start 400+ consultations a year, 300+ bills and less than 50 acts end up getting past. This is yet another case of "i'll believe it when I see it" because even if it scrapes through, the other chamber would water it down so they could build bigger more swimming pools but we can't add an inch onto our sheds.

It's a bit like lego, except none of it is compatible, the instructions are in Chinese, it keeps costing you money even when youre not building, and when you finish you'll spend your time staring at pieces of it.

Wall template?

Thanks, I did template having the 2nd step similar to the first but it just didn't look right from the sides. Felt better with it being set back and square.

I built mine from ply myself. And routed the nosing. Filled and sanded out looks and feels like solid wood but is silent. Was quoted a silly price for it, so did it myself and I'm glad I did.

I had an awkward spot to do this and used earth sleeving (16mm cable size) over the nozzle. Worked surprisingly well. Releasing the foam slowly and steadily as i pulled it out.

I'd always go for metal boxes on noggin rather than dry lining boxes. I think they are too flimsy personally. If you want a good finish, I'd highly recommend socket and switch beads before skimming. They make a fantastic finish.

Could you explain what you mean by 'treated the corroded cables'? Have you double checked the terminations in the socket you replaced? They are not always in the same places for different brands. The next step would be to split the circuit at other sockets (isolating different legs of the cables) and see if it holds.

My opinion. Ducts will always end up full of water. Nearly every single duct I've pulled through has ended up with a soaking wet cable/cobra/rope coming out the end. It's why you need cables rated for ducts (for data and coax etc) and to make sure the cables aren't dragged across sharp things in the way in. As for mains cable resting on the surface and covered over with a rotting mess.. Never in a million years. Do not do this.

Wonder how 'more wind' Factors into this map? I'm in East Anglia.. Feels about right

Never thought of doing an invisible roof before.. Looks great! Looking forward to seeing it's progress!

Smaller sizes can leave bigger lips, as the weight of the pole has a smaller surface to distribute on. Keep the twist gentle to adjust the angle for the pull and you shouldn't create suction dents or bubbles. They are surprisingly quick to get to grips with. Most the issue is trying not to bash the handle on things with the draw back. That leaves a dent.

People in the next street had ash cladding on the top half and a matching colour front door.. However, the front door that was obviously a better quality treatment still looks the same, but the top half is faded and no longer matches.. Well actually, because of the direction of the sun and the dormer only 2/3s are faded. So one side of the dormer matches the front door, and the shadows from the eaves mean it fades from grey to wood as it gets to the top. Looks a bit of a mess to be honest

It's a minefield.. For most of us, we're buying small volumes for our home builds. The professionals who do quotes deal with small margins wouldn't cover their wages by taking the time to deal with our needs and frustrating time windows and questions. That's the way I see it. For my smaller parts of the project I've swallowed the excess and used wickes and toolstation, because I go past them on a weekly/daily basis. For the big build stuff I was lucky enough to have a family member who is branch manager at Travis P... And the prices he got things for were unbelievably cheap compared to anything I found online. I ordered cladding from elsewhere and was screwed around with part deliveries that didn't colour match the rest, and Posi joists from a company that went out of their way to help me with design alterations, and be flexible with unloading by hand on site.. At every stage I've learned that dealing with a company throws a bunch of very different people under one umbrella, so no two experiences are the same for us. At times I paid through the nose, but I know that despite being in the industry, these people are making a living too. I just think of the final project, how happy I am with how it turned out, and how little it cost compared to buying a finished project from someone else.

Any chance you could speak with the neighbours and see if they've been affected? Looks like theirs is a mirror image of yours? If your side is worse than theirs, it hints that the problem is on your side. If they've got the same problem, you might find that it's a bigger issue.

We all know you bolt right after the screw.

Regardless of semantics I would contact the manufacturer.. Most will happily supply extra fixings without questions

Screws can have a shank. And lots do. To prevent lifting when fixing multiple materials