FuerteStu

I had similar in a previous place.. Was concerned about it 'walking'. So I ran a thick bead of silicone along the edges behind the plinth. My logic was that it would form a barrier with a little bit of give in it. I'm not sure if it ever actually did anything other than give me peace of mind.

I'm a broad chested guy, my wife is generously chested too. As deep was an essential requirement, and I was amazed at how few bath manufacturers actually list the height of the overflow in their spec. I had to contact several of them to ask. It seems utterly pointless to me that some of the huge baths on the market actually can't fill as deep as some of the cheaper ones that look shallower. Filling a bath with pricey hot water, only for it to go literally down the drain.

My copper line contract ran out 3 months ago. Been waiting 2 months for fiber to be fitted. They keep sending an engineer to connect the internal without installing the fiber to the house... I'm not holding my breath, neighbours have also been waiting since may 1st for their fiber install. It's a joke.

Gut feeling, it's there the problem is.. The dropped slabs suggest there is something washing away underneath, if there's water degrading around the foundations at that point, even a slight drop would cause the gap to form 16 feet above. Effectively, the foundation joint between the house and extension is a pivot.

Sorry mate, but in my experience, cracks diagonally from doorways are a giant red flag. Water ingress is because of cracks you haven't found yet.. Not the cause of the ones you have.

Awesome. Got a draw wire down the length of it that's got a 10mm diameter head with ease. I'll sweep the bend through the outside wall, just chase a section upwards from the penetration. I think this will work way better than 20mm conduit to be honest, as it's a continuous run. Cheers all

So my new fibre line install is going to be 'on a suitable outside wall at the front'.. About 5 metres from my telecoms area with my switch panel. I've spoken to a guy who surveys the install (virgin, not Openreach) and they've said they don't mind a short containment run as long as it's in place in advance with a draw wire. I said I'd do it in 20mm conduit, but I noticed I've got 8 metres of 15 pex Speedfit sitting there doing nothing.. Surely that's a better option right? Smoother interior, no couplers needed? Anyone know of a reason why not? It's going up a boxed in riser that takes my outside tap feed, through 4 metres of loft and down into the IT cupboard.

I've used these in the past for downlighters. They are bloody brilliant as it creates a really solid opening.

If you can't swing a few CATs, then we didn't selfbuild big enough!

7 TVs in the house so far, 5 people.. if only 4 of them are streaming 4k that's one hell of a bottleneck on the WiFi. Hardwired TVs mean less issues with all the other 50 devices.

I have one 24 port switch in my plant room (cabinet with the consumer unit in the hall).. One day I might get around to labelling it all before I forget what codes I used for all the runs 😂

For me it isn't just the immediate benefits and cost savings.. I know that if something goes wrong in 5 or 10 years time, I'll have photos of the work done and a memory of where things are and there's a very good chance I can save myself a bucket in fixing it myself, or at the worst be able to point someone else to exactly where the issue is.

Doesn't look too unnatural compared to some staircases I've seen.. I built my own because the quotes were coming out insane for mine. But they were an unusual shape and design

I did the garage conversion floor in dry sand and cement mix.. Mixed on the driveway by a volumetric mixer. I calculated I needed 1.8m2, asked for 2 to be safe. Used a laser level and wheelbarrow.. Got it done in about 3 hours. However, the guy must have just emptied his wagon... It was the day before Xmas eve. I had over 2m2 left over on the driveway. Filled up two tonnebags with it and built a ramp to the front door as well.. Had to get a skip in the new year to get rid of it all.. That was the worst part of it all. If you want tips on doing it yourself I worked out a few.

Do we get to name the podcast? I vote for "needs more duck tape"

In my experience, over tightening of bolts is the main issue in metal failure. Not only can it damage the thread on the bolt and cause it to fail, but the abrasion of over tightening can remove the protective layer around it causing another weak point. Torque wrenches are as much about preventing over tightening than they are about tightening to a minimum torque. And don't even get me started on split ring washers and them actually increasing the failure rate of bolts.

Ah, so you mean wall thickness.. Mine was a couple of mm either side when I offered up the lining in the garage conversion, and I was tempted to fit it, then Architrave and caulk the gap.. I ended up trimming 5mm off the lining. Much better job

It's a 2.4m room.. When I did the loft conversion too the roof off completely and did pozi joists top and bottom.

Actually, mines got valves on it.. Like this one

I've got an irrigation setup with similar timer. I used a splitter on mine, which allows me to still use the tap without disconnecting the system!

Like this? Feels strange to be seated on the throne and not facing a door.. Its that unnatural?

I'm borderline on going full wet room, it just having a large shower tray with half screen. There was the possibility of having a bench seat built into the wall next to the shower (for hair washing, leg shaving etc..) like the third picture..

Starting my upstairs shower room and toilet.. Blank canvas. I've already got a layout that works, what I'm asking for are any tips and 'things that went wrong' or 'we wish we had'. Relatively small budget, expecting most of it to go on tiles to improve the 'look'. Maybe I'm just over thinking it, but thought I'd post in case anyone had any advice. It's in a timber frame loft conversion, pozi joists floor and ceiling. one external wall. My plans are roughly. Marine ply floor tanked, tiled. Tanked Tile backer walls, tiled. Centrally placed 4" humidity sensitive extractor, flexi to wall in ceiling. Tall Towel rad next to shower. Soil stack exits top right next to WC.

Undoubtedly. But accountability is something we should be fighting for. Right to repair it's one thing, right to functionality should be in there too. Perhaps a legal precedent case, the public vs Google. Something sold as smart should remain so for the lifetime of the product (20 years seems reasonable)

Nothing will change as long as people keep spending money and nobody complains. Time to start drafting letters to MPs