Mike

More-or-less :) You'd typically install A142 reinforcement mesh, placed on pre-formed concrete spacers, at around 50mm above the insulation, then tie the UFCH pipes to that with cable ties. Then install a temporary manifold and pressurise the system for a couple of days, keeping it that way while you lay and polish the concrete. So the pipes would end up at the mid-point of the concrete, assuming a standard 100mm thickness. There are some threads (and probably some photos) on here if you search.

Yes, that could be an alternative as it would fit at the top of a wardrobe (in France they're often hanging on the bathroom wall looking pig-ugly). The downside is again the encroachment on the wardrobe storage space, which has a SunAmp-sized space reserved at the bottom (to the left of the Willis heaters). It could also go at the top, though that would squeeze the hanging space from top and bottom, and would also need the partition to be reinforced to take the weight. The 'best' fitting tank I've come across that would fit in that space is the Atlantic PC30 model, which stores 30L uses 2kW. Or 50L if I lost some additional height. But that's a lot less hot water than a similarly sized SumAmp ePlus 150. Unfortunately the smallest, at 12kW, would trip my 45A supply all by itself. I could no doubt find an alternative that uses less, but with the water main currently delivering water at 7°C, the flow rate would start to get rather limited. UPDATE: Just checked and I can increase the supply from 45A to 52A, so I'll look at that again. I do appreciate the suggestions though! Until I actually place the order (there's still a few months to go) the decision is still open, and I have been revisiting the options from time-to-time. Especially every time someone posts another negative experience here. Yes, the unit won't be jammed between two walls and there is enough space to accommodate a bit more than the 'servicing space' required by the manual (and more space again if the connecting pipes are removed). A good point about making the wardrobe removable; it will be fitted between partitions so with easily-removed wall-mounted rails & shelving behind doors - probably sliding ones, though that that's yet to be decided. As for manoeuvring it, that is a concern. Provided I risk bringing it through the window on my scaffold hoist, then it will have to slide horizontally for a few metres without damaging the floor tiles. I've been wondering whether a low-friction mat might help or be totally ineffective. Any thoughts?

No bath, just a shower.

If only! I'd need to pay to upgrade the supply for the entire building to get that! The heater would be great solution, but I only have a 45A single phase supply and already need a load-shedder to switch out non-essential loads if the kitchen is in full use...

It would help, but it would enable the PIV to push more air out through the new vents, which would consequently reduce the PIV airflow in other rooms - though that's not necessarily a problem if you have trickle vents elsewhere. Unless the wind pressure blew the wind into the room through the vents. You could just leave the window cracked open and have the same effect. Either way it would increase your heating bill. As above, a dehumidifier would be a preferable solution.

A recirculating hood is advisable, but note that there is a European 'Grease Filtering Effectiveness' classification that requires hoods to be rated from G (<=45% effective as removing grease) to A (>95% effective). Manufacturers tend to keep quiet about it, but it's usually buried in the specs. Bosch, Neff, Miel & Berbel all have B rated models (>85% effective), but Ikea has the only A rated that I've come across so far.

https://forum.buildhub.org.uk/topic/42270-unbelievable-brickwork-will-this-pass-building-control/#comment-596598 Maybe I was using invisible ink.

The downside is noise transmission through the doors so, if you go this way, install acoustic-rated doors & frames. Personally, I'd avoid them.

Yes, height is certainly important on my current (apartment) renovation, as there is nowhere to hide the unit except a wardrobe. The SunAmp, with its side pipe connections, is perfect for that as there's still space above to hang clothes. Before deciding on SunAmp (not that it's purchased yet) I spent a long time looking for compact alternatives, and also came across some modular cylinders: the Teccontrol Twido, Viessman CEI (perhaps a rebranded Twido, but now seemingly discontinued) and the Ariston Velis Evo; if you've found another, I'd be interested. I've also taken a look at various flat single-tank units. The problem is that none of them are as low as the SunAamp, and all (except the Twido) require extra height for pipe connections and/or service space at the bottom - so the installed height is greater and vital wardrobe hanging space would be reduced or eliminated.

With one reservation (on VCLs) I agree with @sgt_woulds advice, and in particular the recommendation to get the proposal modelled in WUFI - or at least to take manufacturer's advice - since there can indeed be some site-specific peculiarities. For example, from my own experimentation with WUFI, when MVHR is present (it keeps internal humidity down), and when an element absorbs little rain + has a sunny orientation, then the rule-of-thumb on choosing a conservative insulation thickness doesn't necessarily apply; that is, more insulation might reduce condensation risk within the structure, as well as retaining more heat. However, if the element does absorb some rain, then the presence of even an 'smart' vapour control layer may cause a catastrophic build-up of moisture within the structure, as WUFI predicted for the North wall on my current project. In contrast, if the VCL was omitted, then there was no risk. A good illustration of why VCLs aren't a magic wand.

I have just such a system: one 20L electric tea urn + a rechargeable camping shower - total cost around £100, no plumbing required :)

The price of gas is driven by international demand, which is high due to the removal of piped Russian gas from the market. The UK is much more reliant of gas than many other European countries for electricity generation, and is also more exposed to short-term gas price fluctuations as it has very little gas storage capacity. Consequently UK electricity is significantly more expensive.

I've not taken an interest, so don't know how radical the proposals are, but the Government has been consulting on energy market reforms: https://www.gov.uk/government/collections/review-of-electricity-market-arrangements-rema

In 2006 I was involved in a couple of very interesting cross-industry events on the Blair Government's proposals for Zero Carbon Housing; the Pre-Budget Report that year announced their ‘ambition’ that all new homes should be zero carbon within a decade. The announcement was a big surprise, but it gathered quite a lot of momentum and seemed possible that it might actually get adopted as policy. Difficult to believe that was almost 20 years ago and that so little progress had been made.

That would be a rather extreme measure. To avoid condensation: Minimise the generation of moisture within the house (when cooking or showering / bathing) Extract excess moisture at the point at source (kitchen & bathroom extract fans, preferably humidity-controlled, or more sophisticated technology) Provide background ventilation to allow other moisture to escape (trickle vents plus PIV in your case, or more sophisticated technology) Keep surfaces warm (insulation and/or adequate heating) And, if you still have a problem, I second @Mr Punter's suggestion of a dehumidifier.

Or Councils could be funded to recreate the Direct Labour Organisations that they closed in the 1990s, and build them themselves. Maybe they could call the homes something like, err, Council Houses?

Provided the wall is sound externally that sounds OK, although I'd swap to a lime-based plaster (at least behind the insulation) as the alkalinity provides additional protection against mould. A brick wall that's been plastered or parged will provide all the airtightness necessary, provided you link it to all adjoining components using proprietary products. If your wall is suitably resistant to rain, if you use vapour permeable paint and if you have MVHR, then there's a very good change that you don't need a vapour control membrane on the inside of the insulation, though a WUFI would still be advisable. BTW, in some circumstances a VCL can elevate the risk of moisture damage, rather than reducing it. A service void is a great idea at ceiling level though, as here you are likely to be replying on an airtightness membrane which mustn't be damaged. Here's another recent thread discussing some alternatives (including, later on, the method I most recently used):

And for any wall units, fix a temporary batten along the wall at the required height. You can then rest the back on the units on it while you fix them and get them all level too.

A 2-wheeler like this would be fine: https://www.evosupplies.co.uk/shop-buy-furniture-skates-moving-dollies/construction-trolley/ But, as @nod says, they're usually placed mechanically.

No, it's not that common, but possible If the product says it's suitable for the purpose.

I seem to recall that WEEE doesn't cover transporting the item, unless you're having a similar product delivered?

If you have radon you'll need a fully sealed radon barrier over the top of the beam & block floor and across the walls (before you build them up), then a screed to protect it. You'll need to adequately ventilate the void below. BTW, if you're installing aircon, then it would be wise to make sure that the building (above the radon barrier) is airtight, to keep the warm air out & the cool air in.

The top one is no doubt designed for greater loads / longer spans. Apart from that, no practical difference. A screed is normally required to even up the levels - the beams curve upward a little in the centre.

8mm isn't that much - if you apply the grout with a screed rail over the top it should level it up - I'd be surprised of the beam manufacturer would have a problem with that.

I've only used hemp batts against brick and stone walls, but provided the concrete is dry and resistant to rain penetration from outside and the thickness isn't great (rule-of thumb - no more than ½ of the EWI thickness), then I wouldn't expect a problem. However if you can install enough EWI, that would normally be the preferred option, rather than insulating both sides. The wall is then more closely coupled to the inside temperature, the possible build-up of humidity in the IWI isn't a concern, and it's easy to hang things on the wall. Consider also how you'll link the wall insulation to the ceiling / roof insulation. And how you'll tackle airtightness.