torre

On the face if it, no - "tucked away around the corner of a quiet cul de sac" sounds more appropriate, but if your street is the main walking route used by people to visit the park or whatever at the top of your aerial view then yes it would be prominent and a large house there might seem overbearing.

So you didn't directly address the first reason for refusal and made only a minor change to somewhat address the second? It sounds like you had misgivings about the consultant's approach and maybe should have trusted your instincts - what did they submit that was likely to change the decision? Because on the face of it, the planners were almost bound to refuse again. If the consultant addressed this up front and suggested you'd need to go to appeal to keep the original design then your course is surely set that way, but otherwise they so far haven't demonstrated much understanding of the local planners or how to address the reasons for refusal and I'd be tempted to scale down a bit in a fresh application as it'll be quicker and lower risk. E.g. Make the garage into a smaller extra room but with the width reduced a bit and set back to still allow parking by the tree, look to utilise the loft space, perhaps accept going to 3 bed. You may help retain the value of the original property too by making it's new neighbour less overbearing.

My non-expert impression, it's likely that pitched roof was extended such that you'll have the original joists spanning to and supported on the yellow and the extension joists spanning yellow to red and supported by both, rather than any being full span, so both will be load bearing. (The lack of moss/lichen on that part of the roof suggests the tiles are newer/different) Exploring the loft is a good suggestion. Is there any planning permission record online for the property? That might give a better idea of the changes. Someone's already spent a fair bit of money on a not very practical extension, so be wary of making the same mistake. If it ends up looking expensive to remove the yellow wall, I'd start looking at what you might do long term - if for example you may want to build out across the whole rear of the property, maybe think about that now as you'll end up reworking things and paying for structural changes again.

Sorry maybe this is clearer re the vent I do think your last detail is a decent compromise in terms of the look you want and being constructable. Probably quite a bit wider though to avoid overshooting

Looks like you could vent below your drip into the gutter as the equivalent to over fascia vent if you had a simple gutter fixed outside

This is obviously no good, but can at least be checked/adjusted out of the box and returned if necessary. In my (limited) experience though the quality of say a bevel cut is more about a sharp blade and securing material so it doesn't pull the blade. Certainly no argument about noise levels though!

The overrun charges for streetworks charges can be £1000s per day for a busy road and £100s otherwise, if it's your licence then you don't want to be delayed by another company's unfinished work. Sewer connection was our most expensive - deepest run, more risk of striking other utilities, fewer companies that will take on the work. With a great deal of perseverance on our side and really helpful utilities workers on the ground we also managed to get water and electric connected under the same licence but if either had missed their install date that trench was getting filled in regardless! Over 10k total but probably saved 2K+ versus separate digs. It was touch and go whether we'd get the electrics done though - their guidelines wanted a wider trench but the people on the ground made it work.

It's so frustrating when a power lead can't even reach floor to ceiling - I've a staple gun from Screwfix and it's only usable with an extension cord fixed to your waist. When it comes to a mitre saw, I'd rather have a cheap sliding and double bevel saw over a mid range brand without those features

So you basically want something thing that signals "I'm still cold up here, keep the boiler on!"? A smart thermostat with a smart TRV on that radiator should do that. Not sure it's much cheaper to install or run than a bigger radiator though

I've only used tado but think they all work the same way. The main thermostat replaces your existing and it's this that calls for heat from the boiler on a configured schedule and temperature. Then an extra TRV or sensor can be installed in any room that you want to be able to control separately - kept warm or cold according to it's own temperature schedule. The TRV signals the main thermostat to call for heat, heat still pumps around the whole system though, through any radiator with an open TRV whether that's a smart or a dumb one. As others have said, at the extremes this can be quite inefficient, but if you've a couple of rooms and know one will be empty while the other is used, you can avoid heating the other, while the rest of the house is somewhere between. Say you want your office warm in the day and your lounge warm in the evening.

Have you asked SWIP for their help? Solid walls are likely to be common for their product so maybe they can clarify their certification or submit some argument to help you engage with BC. It's also worth checking with a specialist supplier like Mike Wye or Lime if their systems are BBA approved. alternatively ask Celotex for a detail. Most insulation suppliers have pretty helpful technical departments

When facing bricks are used to form a cill you'd put a tray behind in a similar way. Compared with vertical brickwork, a cill is catching a lot of weather, both falling directly and run off from the window. Think of it this way, a typical window has a waterproof layer (the plastic cill) directing water away from the cavity. Here the cavity tray is the waterproof layer instead

There's nothing in that last picture to indicate how the ledger board is bolted to the wall at that point. The last fixing could be some distance away on the right leaving that corner poorly supported. Do you have a design showing how this is supposed to be installed? I wonder if the ledger has been cut around the pipework. I guess this is because they knocked a hole in the wall to install a padstone and the wall next to it wasn't intact enough to fix into. The washers used on those wall bolts don't look that large or substantial to me. If you tighten a bolt with a socket does the bolt and washer pull through into the timber? If so then I don't think it's doing it's job

If this is a liquid screed then 50mm is fine, some are even 40mm

Make sure your window supplier knows you're having stone chills if you want the frames to sit directly on them as you need to be sure any frame drainage will work. Quite often you'll see a stub plastic cill installed on top of a stone cill, which isn't quite such a clean look.

Ask the manufacturer for an installation detail. Your stepped DPC is definitely approximately the right approach. Unlike plastic etc cills, stone or cast is porous so you need to prevent moisture getting through and behind it. This is a decent starting point and also emphasises you may need to accommodate expansion/movement between the cill and brickwork, that's another point on which the manufacturer should be able to help

Half a conversion with a warranty and half without would be a red flag for me, and I'm sure other buyers, and so of course that negatively affects saleability and future value - the impact diminishes over time as the current owner is likely to have already bumped into serious issues. I wouldn't rely on the indemnity at all but you could ask that the vendor purchase a retrospective warranty, preferably from the provider of the other half's warranty. That will cost the vendor a few thousand, but if they won't agree then I'd personally want to knock a lot more than the warranty cost off my offer regardless what my own surveyor says, because of the extra risk you're taking on.

If all you've done so far is demolition, I'd take a pause for breath while you do the sort of research you're starting here. Managing the job yourself should save costs but not without either more experience or a lot more up front planning - definitely not if £80/m2 suddenly jumps to £120/m2 (was that labour only or inc materials?). It might even be worth getting two or three quotes before deciding how much you might actually save, versus the stress and probably much longer build time. A builder may give you some advice on making the most of this in terms of running services etc Check your sizes as 6m x 7m externally will be larger than 30m2 of internal floor area, which would mean you need to comply with building regulations. Even without building regs, insulate everywhere - this will be quite an expensive build so you want it as usable as possible. For a flat roof I think you can be 3m high within permitted development and you'll want to be close to that as a warm roof takes a fair amount off your headroom. (If you do get some quotes in I'd remove the nice raised beds from the render as while they look high end, they might suggest you've a high end budget too)

You mentioned a smoke test earlier, has this been done? It sounds the obvious next step.

Did you have any discussion at all where a budgeting cost for the steelwork was mentioned? If this was a shock, what figure did you have in your mind and what put it there? I think you need a chat with your builder but try to frame the discussion in terms of maybe there's been a mistake in what the fabricator invoiced for, giving your builder the chance to look again at the figure without either side getting into an argument about them being responsible for overcharging. Maybe something like: "The cost for steelwork was a nasty shock with Christmas on the way. I was chatting with my (imaginary) friend who mentioned the supply cost seemed high compared with your installation. Would you be able to check with your fabricator what steelwork you were invoiced for, versus the plans, and share that with me so I can double check? I appreciate you've had to add your own margin on top of course". You do need to weigh this up against the value of any damage to the relationship if there's still lots of work in progress, but with the sums involved, I think you can at least have a conversation.

There are lots of variables re section sizes etc but as a single point of reference, last year our goalpost frame approx 3m x 6m was around 2k fabricated (posts were UC 203 x 46). For a sum as large as £28k I'd definitely want some detail on cost breakdown but yours was quite a long list and I can see there's plenty of installation effort there.

Maybe buildhub needs a league table of air test scores? After going to the trouble of trying to be airtight I'll definitely have to know how we've done! I'm not sure exactly how much value a future buyer might place on EPC but being able to boast a 100+ score and being carbon negative must be worth the cost of a test. (Alternatively, if it's really bad you'll know it's not worth running the MVHR all the time)

We used either Steico or Schneider internally, not heard of Gutex but they look interchangeable to me.

Even with the best intentions I'd think really carefully before going down this route (bluntly I just wouldn't go this way) as it's very likely to complicate your dealings with HMRC, who will look at the arrangement between connected parties and, in addition to the paperwork @JohnMo listed, may ask you to show that the relationship is truly commercial - for example, if they believe the company may have charged its director below market rate etc, undercharging and offsetting that against other sales, suggest you owe tax and NI on any discount they assign. "Dear HMRC, I'd like to use my limited company to avoid personally paying reclaimable VAT on my self build at the point in time it would normally become due. Is that okay?" - does that sound like a good starting point, or a discussion you want to get into later with 10Ks - 100Ks at stake?

If fixing to the underside of the soffit can't you use a simpler cover, just a plain grill or a bull nose? It sounds harder to run the ducting to the soffit versus out of the gable end right next it.