Discoeye

Bonus, looks lovely and for the summer solstice .

All the stuff you have listed there cost £2 per bag at our local tip and it has to be from your home not trade waste🙈

On my old house was doing some renovations and obviously collecting the usual bits and bobs from the work, went to the local tip over a weekend they asked if it was trade waste it wasn't and they it was ok . Monday evening I have a guy turn up at my house with a clipboard in hand from the council demanding he see that indeed it was waste from my house renovations. I told him politely I didn't need to prove anything and he went on his way, still puzzles me how they knew where I lived unless the curtain twitcher brigade were behind it.

Well done on cleaning your floor you got there in the end. Just out of interest is your flooring low tack so you can lift it up or fully bonded. We went for low tack and only because my wife will be asking for a different style in a years time.🙈

+1 its the water company's responsibility . It was at one time the home owners responsibility but should be back with the water company. I had a similar problem when sewage was backing up to the drain on my property it transpired our drains were on a run of 5 semi's and three were rentals so when the property's were Vacant there wasn't enough water being flushed, baths, showers etc.. coming into the run of pipe and so mine would stay within my boundary.

Have you bought the sheets yet, are they coated already(Plastisol) if so you would need a primer than your top coat. There is Plastisol paint or regal agricultural oxide in fact there are endless paint products suitable for your needs just narrow down the colour you want and go from there.

That must off been really worrying for you ,its worrying to read. A good cctv camera with audio so if he returned and I hope he doesn't his threats can be recorded too. Also some good security lighting, light up your house like a football stadium if you can as nothing more disorienting than being faced with bright lights face on.

Never seen one of those but it looks promising and for the price its worth a go.

No, warm water is you saviour, and im sure your aware f ball and Lvt flooring need a spotless and clean surface hence why I keep harping on about warm water. If you heat the paint your in danger of burning it to the floor then that's more work and chemicals won't touch waterbased but then you have to make sure the floor is chemical free if they did work. I can only say your scraper with the addition of warm water and a scourer is the way.

Weekend for hire your right could be tricky, good luck its gonna be a painful job however you tackle it.

It's a lot of elbow grease however you tackle it, I have covered and cleaned everything but the the titanic anything's doable. Diamondmatt is tuff but not bombproof cleaned countless with yes just warm watering a scourer no quick fix.

To much heat, if its waterbased you could hire a floor buffer for your area.

Is the paint waterbased they sprayed as if so warm water and a small scourer but not a quick fix for the area you have stated.

Decided to start my window install as the weather is on our side at the moment. On taking off the window trim on the inside Ihave found a 10mm gap between window and plaster line and its an overall 30 mm gap from window to tile line. On the outside the window is set back 30mm from the render line so my thinking is cut back the plaster line to the tiles so I can set the window up against the tiles, that would make the window around 60mm back from the render. Is this set back to far im not sure if its a cavity wall as the original house is solid 9 inch brickwork and the window is on a flat roof extension at the back of the house and haven't taken the window out yet just the internal trim and found the gaps.

Still looking for some advice if anybody has nay input. Thanks all

Decided to start my window install as the weather is on our side at the moment. On taking off the window trim on the inside I have found a 10mm gap between window and plaster line and its an overall 30 mm gap from window to tile line. On the outside the window is set back 30mm from the render line so my thinking is cut back the plaster line to the tiles so I can set the window up against the tiles, that would make the window around 60mm back from the render. Is this set back to far im not sure if its a cavity wall as the original house is solid 9 inch brickwork and the window is on a flat roof extension at the back of the house and haven't taken the window out yet just the internal trim and found the gaps.

Or look at Tremco compriband or similar expanding joint tape. As stated by Joe90 there will be more wise minds to give advice.

Welcome and good luck with your project, not me personally but plenty of great minds on the website to answer your questions.

+1 for the painter being innocent and another good point raised about correct size screw but general movement expansion/ contraction as stated by wozza and unfortunately through the painter doing his job a few more have popped.

Took the plunge and bought a Bosch battery and Bosch charger from the "professional " range and it fits and works great. I saved £25 on the battery £5 on the charger. Every little helps.

Welcome, plenty of wise folk on here to answer your questions. Good luck with your project.

Are the walls plasterboard also as you could use gyproc paper joint tape.

Tesa sensitive or similar low tack decorators tape or Tesa easy cover film and tape in one .

My brother in law has just given me a Fein multimaster 500 ampshare bare unit he got it as a freebee (lucky him lucky me I think) just had a quick look at batteries and chargers and it seems to me Fein batteries and chargers seem a lot more expensive than Bosch ones and I know the Bosch green stuff is not compatible but the "Professional " range is . There is some batteries labelled ampshare but from what I can take from the little info I have read any Bosch battery from the professional range 18v should be cross compatible, anybody share anymore light on the subject please. Thanks.

+1 for nitro mors and it burns nicely through the skin so gloves are a must . If its an old house you can bet lead paint is on there somewhere so a good mask also and one word of caution : if your looking for a natural looking finish beware all those years of dings and dents and scratches they will hold onto the paint for dear life and more often than not your finished surface will look like a tub of hundreds and thousands so expect some extra work .