Discoeye

Looks like it's an email only contact: enquiries@geberit.co.uk.

Suitable filler will be fine but remember the filler patches will dry a different colour hence the reference to looking like a marble cake. The rest of the property looks nice so imho if you have the money get it rendered but if your not planning on doing it yet and your gable end is not taking in water anywhere just finish your painting and forget the filler until your ready to get it rendered. Toupret filler is really good but just think how many boxes you would through trying to make the wall good, save your money and get it rendered.

I'm with Mr Punter the crack doesn't look to damaging so a repair is a do'er . Concrete cills prone to movement in that type of shape so a flexible pointing {like a silicone tube} wouldn't go a miss and a decent masonry paint i.e : Sandtex or Dulux weather shield . Days work for a tradesman to mess around with. Good luck with your project.

Thanks redbeard , why didn't I think of that.🙈

Funny, one of my windows isn't square either. So am I safe to say the silicone won't react with the foam. Thanks

Good afternoon all. I'm going to be using FM330 foam as an intermediate around my Upvc windows and leaning towards finishing with Compriband TP600 on the exterior edge but depending on overall cost I might use an lmn silicone. So my question is are any Lmn silicones compatible over the FM330 or if any at all being they could react with the foam. Thanks all

Separate stabiliser should be used but that will have no effect on the state of the gable end your painting. At a push and a small push using sandtex{clue is in the name it has sand in it} could possibly build up the dips and dives of the wall to give more of a uniform rough sanded look but in reality even if you do that and spot filling its never going to look good and more like the top of a marble cake. It needs a total render coat to look any good Imho. Good luck with the project.

Good morning all. I'm going to be using FM330 foam as an intermediate around my Upvc windows and leaning towards finishing with Compriband TP600 on the exterior edge but depending on overall cost I might use an lmn silicone. So my question is are any Lmn silicones compatible over the FM330 or if any at all being they could react with the foam. Thanks all

You should stagger them really although the area covered isn't of great volume so should be fine.

Every third row should be nailed so in high winds you don't say goodbye to all your tiles. I agree with Big Jimbo that's not been done by a real roofer and as you've stated you don't have felt underneath your roof you going to come into trouble there. They should of bedded the last tiles, im not a roofer by trade but have been around enough building work to see that's not right.

Welcome, your own build sounds wonderful so keep everybody updated with the progress.

Good morning all, following on from my previous question can anybody recommend a suitable screw and length for attaching the cill to the window frame. Thanks.

Its hard to find a balance between protection of timber and it looking nice imho, I'm with pudding with a product that is absorbed by the wood then left to weather from the elements. But so many variables involved : what type of timber how much foot traffic north facing/ south facing in a garden. Decking that never sees any sun just loves damp slime all over it and equally in the sun for most of the day is going to be bone dry with a worn out look. If its a bright colour then Cuprinol but be prepared to re paint often for protection sadolin or Sikkens .

General dirt and grease from your hands can make the paint react this way, the roller trail looks a little heavy to so a medium pile or short pile sleeve and take it gently.

Sounds like they are covering themselves which is fine but any good decorator can work round existing wallpaper although imho I would decorate first then paper last but we all approach things in different ways but as long as we all arrive at the same result.

Thanks👍

Quick thought do I need a clearance hole through the frame for the screws or can I go straight through with the pilot then the screw. Thanks all

Nod is right but if you don't know if its been done then mist coat or a suitable primer.

Hi, its not suitable for decking but imho sadolin is the rolls Royce of wood care so you won't go wrong with sadolin but it will cost. Sadolin classic all purpose woodstain is a good choice and you have a few colours to choose from or there is a sadolin wet wood . Good luck

Did wonder about the covid material🤣markc. And Carrerahill after catching my breath from laughing at the hurricane I did picture myself drilling through to my neighbours and supporting their window to. Thanks everybody.

Thanks everybody a great insight into peoples thoughts on the subject, thanks gaz_moose I have seen those ones in screwfix as well as some ridiculous priced ones.

Thanks for the reply, I have seen some go up to 150mm + I presume those would be for larger windows/ doors . So 100mm is fine my windows are all pretty much 900mm wide/ 900mm tall.

Hi to all. Bit of a mixed bag of questions so can anybody recommend a Concrete screw length for installing Upvc windows , the house is solid 9 inch brickwork so no cavity and the bricks I would describe as a soft red. And to coincide with this what drill bit length, I thought a 260mm /200mm working length 6mm sds+ so as to get enough into the brickwork but be clear of not being to close to the window jamb when drilling.

Hello to all at the forum. I trained as a painter & decorator and went on to join a property maintenance team which I enjoyed for the next 20+ years until I was diagnosed with cancer 11 years ago then again in lockdown but I have survived twice . I mostly mess around with my house finding things that don't really need doing but it keeps me busy.