Super_Paulie

Quick question for the masses. My porch has a vaulted roof with joists so I can have a flat ceiling in there. It's brick with an insulated cavity. I've installed 75mm PIR between the joists and made it air tight, more to stop drafts than anything but I have found the roof void above the PIR is not vented. Should I add a vent into the soffit or not bother due to the small footprint, it's like 1.8m x 1.8m. I could also potentially "knock through" the dividing OSB board into the canopy which is open to the elements. Cheers gents

plenty of ways i guess, im just worried about the unsupported parts of the plasterboard as i assume they will be bouncy.

or are we saying go this way? from what i can see @Buzz went like this, sorry for the name drop Buzz.

the rafters are, but if i am to create a service void with horizontal counter battens then i'll always have floating ends, so to speak. When boarding out stud work ive always made sure every side of the board is supported, so, im not sure if im getting the wrong end of the stick here as unless i create a frame for the boards with the battens then i'll always have floating ends. See attached shoddy picture. Would i just add shorter battens at the ends of the boards so i dont have any floating ends?

reponse from Pegler. Hi Paul The PB50 bib tap is not designed for outdoor use, unfortunately it does not fair well when exposed to the elements. This particular model is chrome plated so, If used outdoors, it would need to be housed to prevent rusting and further discoloration due to exposure . Kind regards Toni Why the hell would i have a bib hose tap inside my house? 😆 A tap that bleaches and rusts sounds like a hell of a product.

Happy Friday gents and ladies. This week i will be mostly insulating my vaulted ceiling/lean to in the extension. BC been out, all happy so far and ive over-specced it against my planning approval. So ive got 125mm rafters. 50mm ventilation void, going to go with 75mm in-between the rafters and 75mm under. Then batten for service void and then finally plasterboard. My question is in regards to the batten. I cant find sod all online so i guess its common sense, but I was going to run the battens horizontal, so perpendicular to the rafters. All well and good but i assume i also need to run vertical battens to accommodate the ends of the boards so how do i pass my services though if im effectively making a frame under the plasterboard? Beer o'clock.

I assume any replacement from pegler would also fade.

yeah but will it go the same way? pink in a jiffy.

New valve would be crazy, been in like 2 months and never used! Might have to just accept the pink. Hopefully I can sleep at night workout thinking about it...

So you're saying I need to clear coat my tap handle? Wonder if I can get a UV resistant heat shrink.

But it did though I bet...? My Nova used to come up like a fire engine after a polish. Got a blue car now, so like my blue handle its loving the sun.

My Nova 1.3SR had the same problem but nothing an afternoon with the t-cut wouldn't sort out.

Major issue here guys. My outside taps, the red handle has faded but the blue has not. Once I'd got over the absolute shock and horror it got me thinking of any solution to this. Trivial I know, but an issue I'd like to look into so the taps don't look tired even though they are new. As these are marketed as outside taps it seems a bit weak to fade in a few months.

heres where i find out the floor levels are wildly different from old to new.

in an effort to avoid congestion from the under stairs cupboard where my manifold is, i am looking at the option of passing a single loop flow and return through the original cavity wall from the extension. If i dont then i have all my loops going through a very small area at the start which seems troublesome. Whats the best way to achieve this, core drill out at the correct level to pass conduit through the cavity? remove a brick each side, run conduit and then make good with mortar? Its a joisted floor each side with the pipes running above the PIR and biscuit mix over. Any thoughts welcome.

i wonder how this panned out...? was an interesting, if not slightly saddening read.

Good shout. So just close off all the loops and open the drain? Seems a better option all round.

Just whack one on the flow? That's as low as you're gonna get above floor level.

Hello ladies and gents. I'm going to add butterflies as marked in the picture but having a mental block as it's been a long week. Should I add a drain to both the flow and return as well or just the flow or not at all? Cheers!

Cheers gents. I've done the job with a terracotta tee. For some reason I couldn't get that in black unless I ordered from the inter'web which was unusual and double the cost+postage. A branch with purely 110mm and not with the 40mm side branches seems to be difficult to get from the sheds. Anyways it's done with the terracotta, thanks for your input gentlemen.

Will the building inspector get upset if I use terracotta branches in my internal soil stack? It'll be boxed in obviously.

Replaced the wiring centre, noise gone. @Admin please feel free to remove this post!

Bench testing my Heatmiser wiring centre today. It all functions as it should (pump replaced by light bulb for the test) but the I guess it's a delay relay of some sort makes a bit of a racket while it's waiting for the valve to open before it calls for heat. Doesn't seem as noisy in the video mind... Anyone else with a Heatmiser experience this, is this how it's meant to be? Didn't think it would need to make any noise at all so I'm suspicious. 1c9fd06a-23a4-4f6d-84bf-cf2eb02e6edf.mp4

Cheers gents, I've finished the job. Haven't flipped the switch yet as it's beer o'clock now I think, just want to say cheers for the info. One thing that I just thought though, I cable tied the 5 core flexes together along the run just to keep them neat while I was doing the job. Is that frowned upon or am I just being overly cautious with that?

Ok just to confirm before I crack on. I'm ok to run 5 core flex from the wiring centre/spur downstairs up to the loft to power the boiler? Roughly 15m. It just seems I'm getting really contrasting information from 'the web about running such long flex. Cheers