Pete
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Everything posted by Pete
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I won't be using dirty water as the old plasterer's use. Don't ask what dirty water is!
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I see your point Nick but my thoughts are that I can plaster incl ceilings so if this product was suitable to try at first in areas that are not as large/and away from natural light it means I could do a fair amount of the house myself and if needs be get a pro in to do the larger areas. I also have an airless sprayer so it is only the cost of the product and by the time I have finished with the rep I hope to have e few freebies to have a go with.
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airless sprayer is all that is required with the correct nozzle size. I think the one you are refering to is for exterior render applications which is completely different product (i think)
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It is pre mixed, all you need to do is liquefy it prior to putting on the wall. A lot less water content than normal plaster as well.
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Your gonna need two
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insulation by the look of it!!
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Can anyone remind where I can find the post discussing how many ducts to put in before pouring slab as I cannot find it. I have so far: Main electrical incoming supply Telecoms (Phone and Tv for exterior aerial) Power to garage Power to gates and possible camera/intercom (in separate duct) Exterior lights (may come from detached garage but I realise better control from house) Water Duct from plant room to kitchen island electric and water (internal duct) ASHP (water and power) Spare All these will basically come up in the plant room and some may never be used but better to have them in when we pour the slab. Any others that people have put in or wished they have put in or can point out the thread I cannot find.TIA
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What have people used to ventilate the gap behind the cladding on a timber frame building? We are probably going to use an iroko cladding and need to ventilate behind on our timber frame.I have seen the mesh on a roll and in specified lengths in a batten type affair. I am not sure of the depth from the frame at the moment but I think it may be 25mm.TIA
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They use it on hotel refurbishments so assume it is more than a thick paint. Cannot remember the constituent parts but marble dust is one of them. Yes you have to tape, fill no as they would be square edged boards . It has a white finish so assume painting will be a lot easier. I have a rep calling so will give more info if I feel it is for us.
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Anybody used this type of plastering? I can plaster but it takes me a bit longer than a trade plasterer. Have not decided if we are taping/filling or full skim yet but noticed this and wondered if anybody has used this system or had experience of it. I already have an airless sprayer so would be another good use for it. I realise it is dearer than normal board finish but it seems quicker and cleaner. TIA
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We have about 270 sq m in total incl the garage which the boss and I will be doing together as she also went on the course with me.
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Just been on my roofing course provided by Catnic using Tata steel standing seam roof. Great one day course provided free of charge incl lunch. Full demo on how to set out and complete your roof and the tools you will need. I know @Barney12 has had an awful experience with Colourcoat Urban which uses the same product but since I found out Catnic are now supplying this product I cannot speak highly enough of the service they have provided so far. Numerous queries over our roof design have all been answered almost immediately and the guy presenting the course said you can contact him with any questions. You get a very helpful installation booklet, T-shirt and a certificate to go on the wall when the house is finished.
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Yes.I always store mine with pump armour in it. Apparently it stops the seals drying out and corrosion on the pump parts. (Mine is a Graco airless sprayer)
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We got the design we wanted and then put in a planning application. No point in proceeding until the planner's have agreed in principle that they are happy with your design. We where lucky in that our design was passed with no alterations but some have had to do major change which could be costly in making these alterations. Another way of looking at it is not to get to excited until it is passed and then you can really throw all your resources into it knowing there are no more hurdles to jump through. Our timber frame company never charged for a quote. I am not sure but I do not think timber frame companies charge for quotes. Good luck and try and work with the planner's as they will listen to your point of view in my experience.
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Google trim tex buttboard
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- end on joint
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Need to speak to the B/insp but what have people done about their rainwater. Initially we discounted rainwater harvesting as the cost was not worth it but we have approx 350 sq m of roof and the soakaway costs will be quite considerable. Not sure if we will have to use the plastic crates or have people used something different. Even with a harvester we would need to arrange an overflow of some description.
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@PeterW can you enlighten me as the reason to get to 5 loops pls? I assume it is because either the Esbe valve manifold is only 5 port or less or the replacement head only fits the smaller valve? I will be purchasing my pipe from Wunda so if the manifold is from a different supplier I need to make sure they are compatible.TIA
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Can you enlighten me as the reason to get to 5 loops pls? I assume it is because either the Esbe valve manifold is only 5 port or less or the replacement head only fits the smaller valve? f will be purchasing my pipe from Wunda so if the manifold is from a different supplier I need to make sure they are compatible.TIA
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I had to pour my garage footings in stages and just pushed 3 x12mm x 700mm rebar into the soil wall at the bottom of the trench to be filled with concrete, leaving tails 350mm long sticking out which where covered in concrete. Then when I dug out the next section to be poured and thus joining the two sections together I had 3 x 12mm re-bar, 350mm long tails sticking out which then joined the two sections together.
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Thanks for the offer of pipe Peter. I intend to run it as one big zone after changing the pipe layout to the better design. Did you get your manifold of Wunda also? I remember reading that people went for a manifold/thermostat that had a better incremental control as the house will be quite sensitive to temperature changes.
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Have used Fischer and R-Kem before and both work fine. Just make sure you thoroughly clean the holes out, that includes dust and scraping sides clean.
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The stone arrives, as does a caravan!
Pete commented on curlewhouse's blog entry in Sips and stones may break my bones...
Glad things going to plan and you having plenty of luck -
Thanks for the responses. Did try to alter the pipe layout to the HPW link but Loopcad just threw in some layouts that would not work. Probably need to go back and try again.
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Thanks for the response Peter. The ground floor is approx 230 sq m which I admit is not the easiest to get measurements from the diagram! All the fixed bits are fitted wardrobes, kitchen units/island unit and under the stairs etc. I appreciate what you are saying about the bedrooms which is how we approached it. The large area to the left is the lounge and kitchen/diner and the big room to the South is another lounge area which we are not sure is overkill. The windows are Internorm with a solar coating but we thought we may as well fit the pipes anyway and we can isolate if this room is subject to some sort of solar gain. Thanks for spotting my test to see if anybody would notice the size of manifold I would need!!
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Yes they are fixed
