MikeSharp01

Everything is connected to everything else and not many people are thinking through the 1st order consequences let alone the second and third order unintended ones. We need to get our head in order so as to steer a path through this lot.

Yes but this could be a combination or one or other of the heating or some other heating factor such as occupancy. I still think it is curious that the room temperature rises when no heating is applied, in the period before heating is applied and if the same effect is occurring after heating is off then the overshoot may be for other reasons. Having said that the rate of change in the 11:00-12:00 period is higher (approx 2.6 degrees in little over 1 hour) than that in the 16:30 - 21:00 slot (2 degrees over 4 hours) which may indicate, or at least allows for, a combination effect although the somewhat odd time base of the chart with 3 and 4 hours between ticks maybe distorting things.

It is interesting looking at your trend. The room seems to heat up without the heating running between around 5 and 9:30 in a small way and 11:00 and 12:00 in quite a significant way. I wonder why that is - occupancy perhaps? If so then your building is doing pretty well as I see it? Do you also have MVHR?

It is a common enough conundrum and I am sorry you have it. Perhaps you could tell us a little more. What was it that you think was done incorrectly and how do you know it was done incorrectly IE are there any obvious consequences? How did you pay for the work cash, bank transfer or credit card? Each of this carries a little more information and in the case of the credit card some protection.

PS the wire coming from the pole over you land, is that going to feed your build or go over it? If it will go over it then you do have a case to have it moved / buried as I believe they are not allowed to run an open cable over a property. If they have to move that then some of the tensions in the whole system around that pole will change they will have to deal with that.

By the looks of the picture it is not staying much as it is so loose. Two things, firstly you should have a wayleave for that stay, if not you can apply for one and then, revoke it and I think they have to take it away unless they can show it must remain (not stay - did you see what I did there?). Secondly I cannot see them moving that pole unless you are prepared to pay for it and you are looking at both a very big bill and a heap of disruption. Having said that we have been working with our DNO (UK Power Networks) for 4 years trying to get a stay slightly moved so the wire does not go through the roof of our cycle shed! Frankly I would look at moving your entrance, left or right, it will be much simpler and a lot cheaper.

Yes and curiously that includes the tax take to HMG so once we all go EV that tax take will need to transfer to EV recharging and as the electricity base price is now almost the same as for diesel ,accounting for the relative efficiencies - but not the value of longer distances on one refill, the cost to charge your EV will need to include the tax and all of a sudden it will be more expensive than diesel. Everything is connected to everything else - thank the early adopters who will have had cheaper motoring - but not for long.

How did you get away with less than the part F 4 ACH for the extract rooms?

Not sure I get this do you mean taking large bores off manifolds to higher manifolds is a problem and if so why are higher volumes more problematic is it to do with velocity in larger diameter ducts?

Welcome to THE forum for people like us. People on here are always up for moral, mental health, engineering & general building support. It is a struggle but you seem to have had more uphill at the start. If you have a clear site it must be a new build or have I missed something? Also warranties, ours is from buildStore, are really only any good for years 2-9 of the building exitance. This because the expectation of self builders is that they live in the building for at least a year so fix any issues and then the warranties kick in for 3rd parties who might purchase the property. However if it is your forever home then you won't be selling so the whole thig becomes a little less important. At the outermost level both your structural engineer and architect must carry Professional Indemnity Insurance (PI) and so in the case of major failure of one sort or another you may be able to claim on that - indeed your average warranty company will often look in that direction if things go wrong that are so attributable.

Connect the McAlpine shallow trap directly to the sink, it will run horizontally away from the sink outlet run parallel to the wall. This puts the McAlpine outlet some way from the pipe coming out of the wall hence the next bit. So if you fit a 90deg bend on the end of the wall pipe you can have the McAlpine and the inlet to the 90deg bend running parallel to one another. You can then either fit a u-bend or a flexi to join the two together mounted in the horizontal plane. All the pipework will run roughly horizontal so you will need to arrange a small slope but that should be possible. There will be no pipework more than a few millimetres below the base of the McAlpine trap and this should clear the drawer

Plus one to that - I also think having too big a machine will mean it won't modulate down far enough for average temperatures and will end up cycling! I wonder why people size for the extreme cases and not closer to the most common. If your house is well insulated then running a few towel rails might be a better way to deal with the extreme case or with UFH run a Willis in line to handle the three days a year when the outside temp get seriously out of whack.

Can you not go away from the sink waste parallel to the wall with the McAlpine shallow trap and then come back to the pipe with a U-bend mounted horizontally, so just acts as a pipe, or just use a flexi like THIS one with a 90deg bend on the end of the wall pipe. That should keep it all above the draw.

Are you allowed to make a wooden (same material as door)/ metal ramp the shape as indicated by @Roger440 and then fix it down to make it 'permanent' .

H mmm several members of my family think this way - I think you are supposed to make an effort (well somebody is!)

Good question - Welcome to THE forum for people like us - they look great in the showroom but not sure about longevity. You can usually access them by removing the inner pane of glass and the double / triple glazed unit is on the outside. So servicing is possible in the ones I have seen.

Can you see all the way to open sky through that crack?

Interesting I was taking to our insurance company and they are reckoning we need around £4K /sqM as a rebuild estimate for ours, also in SE! So somebody knows something I guess.

Yes - seen it, sadly my work for the block has gone on the back burner as work, build, family, looking after friends with issues and otherwise life has slowed me down. Will get back to it though. I did play with ESP-NOW to help a student with their project last session, worked well but limited number of nodes in network if you want security (and that is pretty basic) but sounds like a good fit for @Radians challenge.

Hi. You can go onto the land registry and register an interest to stop them getting it or saying it has been in their possession, for a long time. Essentially they will need exclusuve use, and to fence it for 10 years then they must advertise for the owners to come forward and then wait two further years. So it's a long way off but that does not solve the immediate problem for that you need legal advice.

Which one?

Crumbs - that sounds awful. Usually the two dwellings, yours and theirs, have separate water and electric systems but this does not sound to be the case. You probably need to get it checked by your water and electricity suppliers.

I dimly recall that in early schemes the payment was made on some notional export amount as they had no way of actually measuring it - smart meters tend to sort this one but may not have in your case. SO maybe yes / maybe no!

Looks like a little job for an Rpi, some current transducers, a small UPS, and a couple of contactors to shut the DC down as the grid power is turned off and then bring it back up in the correct order when power is restored. MIght work with a simpler scheme of just driving the DC contactors from the mains with a small on delay. Wish I had time to play.