MikeSharp01

DoeS that mean you have to use the whole length cos if you cut it then that's all pressure gone.

Hire one is an option.

I have a Leica - this one. https://www.screwfix.com/p/leica-rugby-610-self-levelling-rotary-laser-level/3417G?kpid=3417G&ds_kid=92700022885079543&ds_rl=1249796&ds_rl=1245250&ds_rl=1249484&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI3d7W0d6p3QIVB5ztCh1jpwYXEAQYASABEgKOOfD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds&dclid=CJWisNzeqd0CFdiPGwod7vQE-Q but I paid a lot less than this price and I got the +/- 50mm reciever. It's great it works in the rain and the brightest sunlight the only thing to watch out for is reflections off glass as you can get some very weird readings.

As I mentioned before 'start' can be triggered by local authority internal processes. In our case this happened because we went for a demolition order which the planning department picked up in the weekly list and flagged our build as started. To be fair they switched it off again when I challenged it but in a council with a CIL who knows what would happen.

192 bit encryption oh er!

If you have, or access to, the deeds you can use the approach @billt suggests LR are very helpful and doing yourself is simple. Without the deeds the process is much more complex and you may need professional help but it is still possible.

For me the key is the ecology of timber frame over masonry builds which also impact the foundation design and the way that things like air tightness and insulation can be deployed to ensure an energy efficient building.

Welcome, sounds exciting, look forward to hearing more.

ALT/CTL/PRINT SCRN (Just grabs the current window) and I then paste it into powerpoint (other packages EG photoshop are available) for shaping and any commenting needed then I save it as a JPG or anything else.

Thanks all, great ideas, will look at all the solutions and decide what is best for me.

Not even sure it has to be mounted on a vertical axis, only going on what the chap said this morning and awaiting some real results is something of a must. However we might conjecture given that they envisaged its max size as about 1-2m in diameter . If it is a sphere, and that is essentially what it looks like, and has an axis (which I guess it must) then the stresses will go into the bearings to support it and the structure of the sphere itself in terms of the resultant centripetal forces trying to tare it apart, given its max envisaged size I don't see an upper wind speed limit being in there because it cannot physically furl so only breaking will do it and its 'windage' (for want of a better word) stationary and rotating will perhaps be approximately the same, while their turbine is much smaller than other things in the environment that successfully stand in any presented wind across the planet. However Betz may well apply as it approaches a different aspect of the operation.

Trying to be my usual efficient self, not always a good idea, I have been working out how much floor boarding I need and laying delivery out against the build sequence and I think I have hit a snag. I need to board out the first floor, largely, to put the ridge beam elements in place so it will be open to the elements until the rafters & sarking are up. Have just tried to find floor boarding I can leave out in all weathers and the best they can do is 'water resistant' just how resistant is that then? I might be able to cover it but there is no way it won't get wet! Is there an alternative I can use, I don't want to OSB it if I can avoid it as that will be wasteful. Any thoughts.

That was one of the design considerations - as in it never needs to furl, one of the designers (inventors) was on R4 Today this morning and he mentioned that it can work in very high winds so keeps on generating even though the more traditional turbines have had to shut down.

Yes and no - the idea looks like it was to accept wind from any direction including up and down so if you put it on the side of a tall building it can operate in the updraft. Their Ptypes are 3D printed which means they can have air passages of all shapes and forms inside.

Can you get underfloor heating (UFH) into the floor as then an Air Source Heat Pump (ASHP) might be a way forward on the electric side and you could use Economy 7 electricity to warm the slab overnight and supplement with PV during the day. Do you think you will let it out throughout the year or just in the holiday seasons?

Now if I recall my chemistry then it (Calcium Carbonate) reacts with loads of stuff which is why having it about might be seen as a problem, and if you use too much limescale cleaner you can get some interesting effects. We did our downstairs wet room at millstone manor 15 years ago with it on the walls as large honed tile and on the floor as rough mosaic and they both still look great I think mainly because cleaning it is so easy, just take the shower head out of its holder and spray the room with it - I also do the WC and the sink at the same time, avoiding the ceiling light fittings of course, and then wipe it off, great.

There might be a wrinkle here if you do do it and, although a vanishingly small possibility, it subsequently turns out to be wrong or misleading, perhaps not providing a strong enough warning about the need to upgrade for instance, then as the seller you might be in line for a fraud charge because you benefited from the sale and this sale relied on information you provided. I suspect this is very unlikely unless something serious goes wrong.

Sadly they don't make it in the thickness I require (15mm). You would think so but the scuttlebutt is that it occasionally has porous sections which would be solved by a coating - which is, I believe, what smartply does - well they talk about a coating doing the vapour control in their propassiv technical data sheet.

Our structural engineer is insisting on me skinning both sides of our lateral walls with OSB for racking strength. It struck me that if I could make the OSB on the inside air tight I would not need to cover it with a membrane. The challenge is making OSB air tight and I wonder if just painting it, either flat before installing it or once installed, with a thick PVA mix, or some such, would do the job. Any thoughts?

IMV meshes are the future as they take the resilience concept underpinning the Internet and make it scalable in micro environments like houses and even cars. They are inherently simpler from a users point of view although rather more demanding in designing for reliability. I wonder if the problem revolves around investment (in previous schema) challenging change.

It works though doesn't it. The weakness, as you have said before, is that it relies a bit too much on you being there to sort it out. What we need is to throw out there an open source home automation protocol (hardware / software / whatever) that we can all develop to and that then forms a community of practice that others can latch (pardon the pun) onto so when those of us who have bespoke systems pass into the land of limitless energy (I assume) where the laws of physics don't apply can be confident that those left behind us won't have to rip it all out and start again as soon a it goes phutt.

Nope - you will mostly only see components EG flooring / furniture / lighting, not finished stuff the ideal home exhibition is better for interior design inspiration I suspect (my Brother and his OH go every year) we are not at that stage yet but might take a trip this year for that exact purpose.

IMO 1 day is more than enough - accept if you do go away after a few hours, bury yourself in your build issues and make a plan to go back the next day and ask all the questions you forgot to ask, then maybe 2 is useful but still a luxury. The OH and I just got there early last year did a morning of looking around separately, had lunch together to compare notes and then went around together looking at each others top picks and asking the questions we had not asked in the morning. Don't forget all the sideshow talks which can consume a lot of time if you are not careful.

but can you?

No, I know that, it has been discussed here before several times - I just want to have as many options as I can for heating / cooling, we have a passive stack system designed in as well an ASHP coolable slab. No south window shading to speak of but will have film and interstitial blinds on the 'rectangular' windows. The one thing I have not found is a passive house qualified Louver system which I would like to put at the bottom of a couple of the north facing walls that can open with the passive stack roof lights and draw the cooler north wall air into the building and pass it out through the roof lights in the cooling season.