Sparrowhawk

@jack Do it!

Was the dot and dab plasterboard then skimmed with jointing compound or with the hard brown (gypsum?) plaster? For the junctions, having tried to doit myself with CT1, I think your best long-term fix is to sand back a bit, and get a plasterer to insert folded paper tape over the join and feather it in. For cracks on the flat surfaces, scrim tape and a reskim or decent feathering in. None of this helps if you've got cold air circulating behind the dot and dab. Do your thermal camera images show it happening, and help you locate the source? You could drill holes and squirt expanding foam in top and bottom and see how much that improves it.

Thanks for the reminder @GP41! I'd switched to posting individual threads in the topic forums so it's time for an update covering the past 18 months. We finally got the new central heating and hot water system installed in May 2024, done by a fabulous Heat Geek trained installer. As @MikeSharp01 said on page 1 it makes a big difference and for the first winter since we moved in we've been warm and kept the house consistently at 19C+ Electricity usage is down (no oil filled radiators needed) but gas usage (CH/HW only) is slightly up. But as we're stripped back to suspended wood floors with gaps between planks so it's going to drop from here onwards. Heating has also fixed the book lice and mold mite infestations in the house, and we run a dehumidifier once a day to keep on top of the humidity. Living in and working from the house you're renovating (with clients coming in 3 mornings a week) is a recipe for disaster excruciatingly slow progress. That's my excuse and I'm sticking to it anyhow, got nothing to do with me overthinking, trying to treat a house like a precision mechanical instrument (tolerences >1mm? Oh the shame), procrastinating or being a perfectionist, oh no. But I am having great fun learning new skills, my SDS+ drill is my new favourite toy, bonding plaster is great to work with, and the hypotheses I've had turn out to be right more than 50% of the time. Planning for MVHR has been a massive time sink. We don't need MVHR but we're on a clifftop by the sea where it's breezy on a calm day and windy the rest of the time, and what we really don't need is extractor fan sized holes in the walls and trickle vents in the windows. Wind washing is real, and removing the two extractor fans downstairs and sealing up their holes has made a noticable difference to heat retention on windy days. And this is with gaps in the floor and leaking windows. Back to MVHR, and ducts here are difficult to route due to extensions, and it became an obsession to see if I could work out how to make them fit and be concealed and within the thermal envelope. I've had far too many 3am wakeups drawing diagrams in my mind but victory is mine, and with the compromises of 75mm duct and one run in the (cold) loft I have it planned out - and promptly lost my enthusiasm because I'd solved it hadn't I and the fun bit was over... The first duct run is in and whether we actually buy a MVHR and fit it, it's there and ready. A big shout-out to @Gus Potter for his help on whether I could take a chunk out of a cavity wall to run ducts through. Just got to pluck up the courage to cut a 10x30cm slot now! I'm slowly adding underfloor insulation in the hallway. Another of those that's been excruciatingly slow because to begin with I spent ages trying to work out how to fit it in an airtight way under existing stud walls built on top of the floorboards. Eventually pragmatism won through and I'm fitting it where I can and will put an airtight membrane over the top of everything and taped to the walls before we lay a new floor on top. Anything else is too much hassle. Sound proofing is my nemesis and no matter what I do the downstairs toilet remains... a place for exhibitionists. Ditto airborne sound from ground floor to first floor in certain rooms. I've sealed the perimeters with airtight sealant, added glassfibre between the joists and made sure the floor is tight. And we can still have a conversation with barely raised voices. Next stop is overboarding the ceiling, and then resilient bars if required. We need to replace windows this year so we can get the house replastered. After dreaming of triple glazing, we got stupid quotes from Norrsken (£35k) and Nordan (£25k) for 4 windows, 2 bays, a front door and 2 narrow sets of patio doors and my piss-poor negotiating skills didn't get them to shift much, it's back to UPVC 2G. My questions about airtightness, corrosion resistance and whole-window U values rub double glazing salesmen up the wrong way so I am procrastinating about getting any more in because it's a painful process. Best purchase of 2024? One of these: https://www.bosch-professional.com/gb/en/products/gde-162-1600A001G8 which when connected to my dust extractor lets me drill anywhere in the house without making a mess.

My 1920s house is cinder block from brick foundations with a brick stringer(?) at the 1st floor joists. It looks like your first floor could be cinderblock but hard to make out from the photos as not enough is visible. It's horrible stuff to work with. Can the plasterer not bed in a wide scrim at the junction to stop it from cracking?

And what kind of effect do you want from the finished table? The colour and grain is going to be different in those two places.

Thanks chaps, priming up now and I will go and get clout nails when the hardware shop opens tomorrow. I thought the conduit was required by regulations to somehow stop anyone drilling into the cable - which as the cable is in the safe zone above/below a socket, and the conduit fairly thin plastic, doesn't entirely make sense to me. Is it there instead to allow for rewiring in future? And this could be compliant without it? I'd have thought a nice U channel of 0.5mm steel over the cable would be better if one wanted to prevent peple drilling into it...

Last week I did my first chasing into plastered cinderblock walls for a new socket and light switch. An electrician came and wired everything up, using 20mm plastic conduit, and I now want to plaster over them. However - I can't get the conduit to stay at the back of the chase. The electrician slapped some filler behind to hold it in place but it didn't stick to the dusty cinder block. Perhaps I didn't make the chases deep enough and it's meant to hang mid-way in the chase, but I wasn't expecting how bulky the conduit would be. Is there anything that will stick it in place or will I need to nail or screw the conduit to the wall before plastering? And next time, is there some narrow, flexible capping I can fix over the cable that will hold the cable tight against the wall?

I've just switched to Podman Quadlets with one client (single server setup) and liking it - yes it's not as nice as Docker Compose for me to write, but just having everything systemd is nice. Plus, rootless containers too. Have we a CDN in front of the server for non-logged-in traffic? Again, something I do at $DayJob to reduce the size of server required.

Yay, one of my guesses was right At the airflows involved, that shouldn't be an issue. It's because it's easy to adjust the flow at the valve during installation (25 different positions with that particular valve), avoiding the need to manually screw the valve in or out by X number of turns / avoiding the need to go backwards & forwards & cut sections out of a restrictor at the manifold. Thanks gents. I'd picked up - I think from this forum, but also from at least one supplier of radial systems - that it was easier to do it all back at the manifold. Good to have cleared this up before doing anything, and explains why the terminals are as they are and not £4.99 for a metal plate and 2 retaining clips.

Good to hear that these could be flush I don't yet (and in light of this thread now likely won't) but Ubbink's "pop out" rings were the kind of thing I was thinking of. Which valves are you using in your photo, they look well engineered?

+1. Toolless connectors are so much easier to use. At the other end (your patch panel, where you connect everything up) I use these ones: https://www.cablemonkey.co.uk/cat6-modules-outlets/9503-cat6-utp-tool-less-keystone-module.html. I got my cable and other bits from Cable Monkey too.

Second question: I understand the base of extract valves is proud of the ceiling to prevent streaks forming as moist or dirty air is sucked towards it. But why is the base of a supply valve proud of the ceiling by 1cm? Is this required for better mixing/the coanda effect?

I've got my first supply and extract terminals here (Zehnder Luma). Doing a radial system with semi-rigid ducting, my plan is to do the throttling for each run at the manifold and have the terminals wide open for less resistance and noise. In this setup, does the solid central bit inside the terminal holding the flow adjuster do anything useful (like meaningfully shape the airflow) or would a radial system like this do just as well with a flat plate hiding the plenum, a place for a filter cone, and nothing more? I'm thinking the design is a hangover from traditional branched systems where these are the flow restrictors, hence the name 'valves'.

Went for silicone grease in the end and it made the task a piece of piss. Thanks for your help!

Android is a right pain for these kinds of things, see e.g. https://caddy.community/t/running-caddy-2-on-android/13993 for running a webserver on it. I haven't gone far into what other OS's you can install on an old phone, as a second hand thin PC will pull under 7W, costs under £70 and is significantly more powerful.

Or this? https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-silicone-spray-40ml/3290f

This kind of stuff? https://www.screwfix.com/p/floplast-lubricant-gel-800g/10631

The assembly pictograms that come with the ducting and seals show some kind of liquid being dripped onto them. Nowhere does it specify what it is. Have you done this and if so what did you use?

They were indeed. Fast growth. Senapt Limited who have a controlling interest are the other accounts to look at. There's quite a network of companies out there.

I'm doing something similar in our hallway, because there's the stairs, an understairs toilet and stud walls built on top of the floorboards. Having spent way too long trying to figure out how to lift the floor, the pragmatic outcome is to lay an airtightness membrane over the top of the existing floor (and lap it up the walls), and then lay a new floor over the floor like you've done. In this house the membrane is needed, because the previous occupants did exactly what you did, but the cold air still whistled out at the edges and around the skirting boards

Hi @DanielE, having made a start on this in a 1920s house this winter (and working on the basis that insulation is good, but airtightness is even better): draping a membrane works, and doing it plus glass fibre fill is cheaper than PIR, but PIR is a easier (so long as you're not aiming for perfection). PIR is also easier in odd shaped rooms, and avoids trying to fix the membrane onto an uneven wall / get it round the asbestos-containing DPM sticking out of the wall which can't be cut but is in the way. My thread when I asked this question (has product names for what you can use for draping) Why do I caveat PIR with "as long as you're not aiming for perfection"? Cutting it to fit exactly between joists is impossible, especially old ones. So you end up with gaps at the edges, which you need to foam up (or use Gapotape to make a snug fit). I suck at foaming small gaps, and you still have a thermally weak spot... so you won't get a perfect finish. For me that's okay given the fabric of the house, it's better than what's before. I then stick airtightness tape over these because what I really want to stop is the cold air coming into the house.

Exactly. Obligatory Heat Geek article: https://www.heatgeek.com/hot-water-temperature-scalding-and-legionella/ I chatted unofficially to our heating engineer, looked at our hot water usage (daily turnover %), and keep our UVC with a target temperature of 47C (range 45-49).

I'm more a theoretical type but I'd be more than happy to come up and stand and point at things while others lift and fit the Sunamp. I can even hand people the right tool at the right time..!

Welcome back @Jeremy Harris, nothing useful to add to this thread but I wanted to say I have learned a heck of a lot from your posts on the forum (and still getting my head round some of the more technically inclined ones). Thanks for all your input over the years.

If you remove the baseboards, have a look along the wall-floor joint with your thermal camera. You may find there's a little draught coming up there which you can fix without removing the cupboards. Also if you know where the penetrations are, a multitool will let you cut an access hatch in the back of the cupboards to get to them. The damage can be hidden by gluing a new hardboard back over the existing one (trimmed to size) so future buyers won't know there's any damage.