zoothorn

..but by god a tricky top c/o due to sink siting with only mm's to spare L to R, & Back to Fr, in the cabinet.. took me 3 hrs to mark top/ check/ redo/ mark/ check, check check......... cut with major fingers x'd. Top c/o perfect.. jeepers, stressful. 35mm hole to be safe/ cheapo cutter ideal for job. Tarty tap on. Nothing connected yet.. I just read the 2 damn tops to join, need 3x oiling 1st with "Wood Oil". Now what the dickens is that? So all held up due for a day for these 3 coats to dry just when Im on a roll. Then I need to consider joining, both with biscuits & 2 clamp thingys. And the plumbing bits to buy/ confirm (Ive got the waste pipes, including an overflow to think of (plus to confirm the water pipes Hep2o bits to get).

Thanks for comms JSH! you've helped alot yourself. Satisfying 2 days (no www)..

i can't find any info on what size hole to make for my mixtap. i know 35mm was discussed, but how can I be certain? it seems very close to the washer ring internal dia. Nothing on the tap info, or its pdf tech sheet, nothing on TP site or the Co's site.

Cor blimey lucky me.. the bigger sink -just- sits in the cabinet between the side & the drawer rail.. by mm's. And from back to front.. by mm's. A very tricky one to get the top c/o at exactly, mm perfect, the right place. Sheesh.

Right now hard bit done..

Ok best I leave the electrics for another thread I think, it only gets you annoyed which isn't ideal! its last job now/ to separate. What I'll do is print off your info & give to my spark that'll be best idea. If I can just ask you on the plumbing, & the other stuff, I'll leave the electrics to only the finger plate addition, & the extension boxes. I'm on the downhill now/ done the hardwork (I fKN hope!) so should be generally rewarding from now on putting it all back together! Big thanks- zoot [look mods can we just scrap pgs 1-20 already? :-]

Ok if you say I have not even the basic knowledge of domestic electrics & make it clear its a firm step up just to test if I have a ring main or not.. then I've no choice but get a spark in. This may take a long time here.. so I have to proceed leaving this to last. I think on the insulated flooring stuff, with the logistics involved in shifting everything out ( I can't do it 1/2 room > 1/2 room : too much stuff & the it can't go back on one side w'out lino or it'll rip), I can't do it. I've a suspicion it might only make a mite of difference too, plus be a spongey feel/ too much 'give' for a kitchen. Thanks zoot.

Onoff that's flippin marvellous.. thanks (your drawings are great btw). Forgive me for asking a daft Q.. but how could I drill through the back of the socket, using leccy if the leccy's off for this work? battery drill? I think maybe I need an electrician for this job.. but mine's n/a for end of year. How would I establish if its a ring main.. only a spark can know the answer-?

I think that's the right idea newhome.. £130 even if it makes a slight difference, would be probably worth it. I'll see what the reviews say first though- it has a heck of alot of competition to contend with re. cold coming up/ Ive never know any floor like this: it feels like a solid concrete slab onto (damp area/ very cold below) ground with a dpc it seems thankfully(!), but with absolutely 0 insulation.

Interesting link thanks/ great idea. I'll pass it onto my carpet/ lino chap see if he can lay lino on: I don't think ideal if it makes a 'spongey' kitchen floor tho, which it might if the two together ~ 6mm.

[Mods- could the thread start from pg 20, so I can look back easier- & then its a normal ~15 pg thread.. so I don't look such a jessie-?] thanks zootH

I could only take a pic of my 2G socket, as it is Peter. Onoff's idea was to drill a hole outside, behind, connecting an outside socket from this 2G socket (the 2G I was going to have to extend fwd). If this Ext socket addition is done, does it mean the prior 2G socket is now n/a? (& so no front plate on or thru the pB).. or now its a 1G (as the 2nd is now taken up by the added external).. or maybe it can remain as it was, as a 2G (with a "3rd" addition going out thru the wall behind it). ?? There's no other way I can explain my Q. A pic of a sketch would only complicate.

Ok that's what I thought likely would be ok- good. Ok last pB bits done this AM.. then onto the next stage. I think this might have to be the outside socket, from the 2G socket, so I can go back & complete pB3.. as much as I'm resigned to it! Will this negate this 2G into a 1G going backwards/ outside? or split into a new 1G inside or something? (or an addition, that keeps the 2G inside-?)

I can certainly grip glue some C'tex sheets under before I put the facia strips on.. not a bad idea that. Ive totally overdone it with 2-1/2 sheets left over. And a whole sheet of pB. Muppet I think I didn't subtract the window area, or included it to be extra safe so I didnt run out. but newhome what do I do with the 'raw' pB that'll be behind the cabinets below the worktop line?? apply someting to it? leave it?

But why prime & paint below the worktop line, if this area's unseen behind the cabinets-? is there any reason to? my point being.. I've never used pB before you see. I don't know what the normal way is with it, once Ive got to the state I have it in. I realise there's some sort of pink plaster stuff to do, which is why ive bought a huage bag of it, but Ive no idea where this will be used, whether it needs a primer before, or not, whether it needs something applying to it in areas that are always to be unseen. Like behind the cabinets. I have no idea.

No I mean it'll be pB'd under the worktop line (right the way down to the last tricky pipes bit I'm leaving a 40cm sQ area free of pB here).. but was wondering if the pB below this line needs treating/ applying with something I've no idea.. or can be left as is?

Hey that's great.. diedre show me how now now! (or brian- we must not assume, nowadays, its WRONG to.. m'kay?) [vagazzle her nails! what if it is brian though, co*kjazzle? I'm so confused already] yes worktop, jigsaw, holesaw things ready. But can I leave the pB as is under the worktop line? or does it need treating/ sealing or something 1st..?

I was thinking of the work needed rather than only a few quid.. I'd need to undo all the wires etc, unless I'm mistaken? I get the idea tho, & would look neat (tho it is on the cock quite a bit as it is mind you). Another job maybe last on list then. Tmrw I need to go get the Hep20 bits. So with the iso valves I've got (I assume I'm leaving these as is ) can you remind me now: its 6x elbows, 1x section of 15mm pipe, & 2x connector end things for the flexi hex pipe to fit onto.. what are these called- sorry did I ask this before? I'm hopefully going all guns to get the sink in this wknd if the pB behind can be left as is.. is this the idea, I mean below the worktop line-? thanks, zootH

Is it not ok as is then onoff-?

Some bits untidy.. edges of reveal c/o (driving me starkers/ lost patience), & a bulge out on one side reveal section (had to do in 4 bits due to poor mistake), but pleased with this corner join gap of only 6mm max, gaps to ceiling mostly good too, & the socket's useable altho its slightly countersunk by 3mm's 'behind' the pB (I'm hoping this is ok)..

For some reason Ive put batten all along the btm/ metting the floor. No idea why if I was thinking leave this bit anyway.. so you say -do- put pB strips on these gaps-? I'm nearing the pB end.. thank gawd, a heck of a trial alone I can tell you @ 25kg's each in a small kitchen. As you can see its hardly a neat job on this window cutout, other is way better, is this acceptable/ can I tidy these bad bits up? Im still not exactly sure what i'm applying onto the pB yet..

What I meant was this Peter.. actually I winged it ok (tho taken me all week just this sill, reveal lining & pB.. alot trickier than other window): think its worth me pB'ing along btm gap around, even if hidden by cabinets-? I can cover it with skirting, where the cabinets end & its 4 ft wide of full wall top to btm, as you walk in. maybe.. is that feasable or a lazyass shortcut? I can only think thin strips of pB will break, a fiddly job which will drive me to insanity tbh! unless a neccessity. Next pB5 should be ok.. then its the bits between to meet (between the batten middle of window/ where the complicated pipework is)..

Right almost ready for the pb4. This one's going RHS here, & interrupted by the TAP. What's the best way to cut the pB with this in mind-? just a big safe ">" cut in/ job done? or is that too lax. The pB's all go ~flush to ceiling, leaving a 4" high gap along btm to the floor all way round. Do I need to fill this gap behind cabinets, or leave it? I guess for the wall without cabinets (4ft or so Width) where you'll see this gap.. I can cover with skirting strip maybe: best idea?

You did & I remember.. I just got it mixed up with weapon of choice for cutting turf, for some reason that was put into my memory bank (as I use mine to cut turf). Thing is, with all the great info given.. bc Im overloaded with xyz new tools, xyz new jobs, & xyz new info to take on board.. I will innevitably forget a few things: don't though assume tho that I haven't read your posts. Not a bit of it, I read them all more than once (often 3x with gratitude each time- even if it might not seem like it).

Bugger that was the thing for the job! done it all now- thank gawd. Its all downhill form now onoff....