zoothorn

@Onoff thanks.. it does on the house front (lower door) side, render excellent here. Then he got a bit excited on the other two sides, & when sun moved round the extention lookslike its got hives. Bloomin placcy black downpipe. Negated house front one (this would've cocked-up the house front look bigtime) by my brilliant idea of connecting up to the existing main house gutter > along & down > out far RHS, kitchen. But couldn't do with this back-side downpipe as existing house gutter higher -by 1 inch. Can you get angled small ~1ft sections, to fit onto the gutter exit (down) that angle in to the wall > then down > the downpipe tucks into wall & fixes onto this-? The slope-out of all 3 of my square black downpipes to meet the gutters = unsightly plastic profile to the house edges.

I best not go carpet tiles if its a woodworkshop with floor dust galore. must be a smooth brushy surface. I did the 10mm floor expansion gap around, & the same gap up to my slate door threshold sill I'm looking at a very fallible floor edge: right where maximum chance of moisture/ innevitable bit of rain getting on. What best to do here chaps? Thanks, zoot.

£30 per caber-? and £28k paid to my builder for the build (not including ALL inside xy & z). Just painted 1st hot lockdown week.. so its coming on.

Great that's a plan then. I need to make totally sure nothing gets down between tiles tho > onto caber (with these fallible gaps I've done even filled up.. IE router friction dust = hot). Any sealing gubbins I can brush-on the cabers, prior to vinyl tiling maybe? or is this idea OTT? The reason I wanted concrete floor, not chipboard, is the router/ friction dust often glowing hot, etc. Hardly ideal for any TF build, so I need to be extra preventative, surface-wise, if i can.

.. If you have enough/ a scrap offcut. I didn't as builder left me a board short, so needed every sq cm. all I had was 1 rogue 1/3rd offcut (I pilfered from their scrap in dec.. & I had to use this to complete the job). if I'd used this to blat hard I'd damaged the caber tongues. couldn't risk it or use a block. His saving £30 means my job a hassle & compromised. And I give him £28fkn000.

Fireline it must have been. Anyway one of these I'm having to go with. 30 kg my BCO told me, not alot kg more.. I was pleading can I just go 12.5mm pls pls pls. No. Good idea re. lifter.. but I've used up all scrap for logstores: if I'm brave enough maybe but I am an idiot so it could be a calamity (like that pic in my kitchen, of the disasterous mess). I'm a bit concerned on my board gaps. 3-5mm, many places. I assume its typical to -always- cover these boards with carpet or lino as a rule? in which case I need to think of something 'workshoppy' I can lay ontop. Thin. Any ideas?

So is it called fireboard, or firebloc(k)? what's the difference to std 12.5mm pB.. just 2.5mm of plaster? Anyway I'm way off getting it with the current lockdown. Floor complete, but not a great job: many 3mm gaps mid board, one or two 5mm gaps one all way along middle of room. I stomped the boards in, putting as much lateral pressure with feet on tops of boards as I could, instead of tonking in at the tongue edge as I had no knowing how much pressure would ruin the tongues with a wood block. Are these gaps an issue? Sorry but my cam will not focus now, too much power.

So then its the pink 15mm fireblock (is it called? I don't know) he's told me to use 'better sound blocking properties than std 12.5mm' (he's been helpful re. my design & knows its gonna be a workshop, adjacent to our lane/ road etc) but I guess as much then to do with fire-containing properties too if its called Fire..Something board. Does 15mm Fireblock mean anything to anyone, or never heard of it/ must be utter balls.

Hi joe90.. thing is my BCO has effectively told me to use 15mm pB (& I think he said it was called fireboard? or similar). He's very insistant with materials he's specifying in this room, after I squeezed him to let me go 50mm PIR / 22mm floor. I don't want to double the cost of 12.5mm pB really, and, double the work of me doing it not having used a lift before. Its a fine idea tho, & ideally I'd take your advice.

One final pic & I can almost sign the thread off. In meantime a Q on plasterboard: can those cheaper pB lifters, lift 15mm Fireboard ok? (i think is it? my BO recommend me to use re. sound).. ..& a very special musical interlude while I wait for cam batts to charge: Thanks zoot.

Now that is very kind Onoff.

Point taken. but as I'm out of work a new cam isn't top of my list right now. Will try for one pic of finished floor tho later.. if the sodding thing lets me.

Onoff.. my dear fellow, I only own a nr dead olympus e10 (AA's @ full charge, rarely let me take a pic.. they get power issues). I dont do mob phones/ they don't work here anyway. Hence my having to spiel more than I might.

Hi Jimbo- thanks, no I'm right handed. Yup done as you suggest, but for the door area two rows, where I switched to start rows from here to get a solid square edge adjacent to door.. I assumed more fallible if a groove edge at this threshold area. Taken all day but job complete. I had only 1/4 board absent/ last bit in far RHS corner opposite door.. so had to wangle a rogue offcut & jam the sod in. Hope scary BO man won't see. Will try for a pic tmrw. Many thanks to all again, what could I do without yous all?

Hi Peter.. sorry not following you. Loose laid- if that means placed on the PIR, then yes. Upside down- no it says this side up, shiny smooth brown underside. You don't see gaps in the pic, they're filled with oozing gubbins. I'm not understanding "bottom joint", or bottom of the board (there no designated top or btm) either! So I don't understand every single thing in your post!! haha.. not the 1st I admit. I can only ascertain from this, that you have been drinking heavily all afternoon.

Well I think so: you see the last row, is only half-width @ ~30cm.. & i guess I can't use the long scraps: I can't work it out at the mo tbh. I am terribly thick tho.

I am gonna run out of boards tho. He's left me half a board short. And right where you don't want it too.. around doorway. Apart from that its going fine. 3 boards left only now. Any problem with using as small as 11" wide offcut? I really am forced into using every scrap now: it will be under benches tho adjacent to wall.

Yes I'm lucky having benches along this far wall.. but its going fine after ProDave's idea. Perfect eg of waiting, however long in my case/ days, until the right idea comes to the fore. I might have got into router fettling or lord knows what pickle by now instead of..

Actually this is a brilliant idea. Ok if I start with the rogues forming my 1st row, their tongues being -less- (by 5mm) than the cabers.. the cabers will push onto them. Why I didn't figure this out Ive no idea, just assumed both ways round wouldn't work. So I can butt the 2nd row cabers up.. but for the profiles having a 5mm gap. So will the glue aid me here maybe expanding & filling the gap? And I can't of course use the offcut to start the 2nd row (bc its edge profile opposite). So Ive got to work out how to orientate the two caber boards for 2nd row to get me to the end of the room. I think.

That's a clever idea.. understand this negates the edge profile needing to match the caber. But if I start with the two rogues, to make a row together, I still have the loooong tongue edge ready to be joined onto, unable to mate with the caber+ groove to make the 2nd row. This is now gone into nut-frying territory. I was ready to proceed without these damn two, leaving gap at the end.. but now if I can fettle these two sods to join & use as a 1st row, maybe I can figure this out. JesusH. I don't know what to do now.

I know- I won't be able to finish the job for months now. Ok I have an offcut. Useful so I can offer it up to both boards, see the join. I plonk its groove onto its identical rogue board tongue edge: slides on to make a tight fit with 2mm gap (I saw the builders tonk these boards together with block, so with glue say a 3mm > tonk > a tight fit). I plonk it onto the caber tongue, the one in my photo (so Ive placed onto the rogue board resting on floor.. then onto the caber board resting on shelf just above it). It only rests on the groove profile, with a full cm gap. Now its conceivable it could be forcefully tonked to close the gap, but, this risks breaking the caber groove out & up into room I would say. I cannot try this test as I might break a caber edge I need to use. But again, the pudding-proof is surely the differing profile/ layout of the two different boards' edges: they do not tally.. so I'll never have the groove where I need it, but instead a tongue (& if I flip rogue board round to have a tongue where I need it on the edge.. I now have the wrong profile on the longer top). Incompatible. I think.

Honestly I'm so struggling with camera to take even 1 pic, let alone focus in dark room PeterW. Even if t&g the same which I can for certain say they are not: I have a rogue offcut I pushed & prodded up to a caber.. always 1cm gap & do not 'mate' at all: I have differing profiles at the RHS (short) edge. Groove on caber, tongue on rogue.

Aha ok. That clarifies things thanks ProDave. No I have defo established I'll be short (builder left me only 0.5 sQm of excess in board area vs floor) so I'll still need 2 new cabers. Any idea what they cost each approx? jewsons don't allow me to see prices/ no-one in my place so I assume TP the same: why is bewildering/ most stupid thing Ive ever known.

@Onoff I -think- the proof these are different/ are incompatible is this. But can you concur so I'm 110% sure? I have a caber & rogue board facing me. Like the photo eg above. Landscape format. Tongues along the top on both boards. So I am looking at the bigger area of visible tongue, from this angle. On the caber it is the grey side. So I am looking at the TOPSIDE of both boards. So far, they are similar. Ok I look to the RHS edge. On the caber+ I have the groove edge. On the rogue board I have tongue. This surely is proof enough they are different -and- they are incompatible. Would you agree? (or am I being thick/ am I missing something?)

No I was just asking if you were suggesting they needed screwing -together- (not into PIR) as well as the glue. No then. I've just set a bed of 50mm PIR, onto my concrete "whatever-its-called-its-not-the-floor" surface. I have 9mm spacers. I have my 1st board down. I have the day to try & fit the cabers. I will have a flaming gap where I'm unable to complete the job due to 2 unuseable boards. Thanks.