zoothorn

@PeterW could you suggest whether the noggin idea of Onoff's, is being proposed as a 'belt & braces' "optional" "do it as well as can possibly be done" situation (because Onoff has very high standards, we all can see).. meaning I could get away ok without adding them.. or.. just what everyone experienced on here would do these additions automatically. I cannot tell whether its being proposed as 'an absolutely fundamental neccesity' or more of an 'additional b&braces' recommendation.

I just don't understand this Onoff. I am only trying to figure out the noggin idea you are suggesting, which I appreciate (I'm not saying I'm not doing it.. just asking why the need, that's all, so I can understand). You must see that the sketch is opposite to the diagram-?? this is mostly why I was so confused. All I know now [[suddenly/ having understood your diagram only 1 hr ago because the sketch has the nogs other way, & has side-flanked me up to 1 hr ago]] is that these noggins have to be done. That's ok! Why so irate?!

I don't like the prospect of adding nogs to -these- 20mm thin pozi-joists tho, & having no idea it was neccessary after a week prepping the ceiling pB job, until its explained only 1 hr ago.. no not too thrilled at doing it! But if its required.. I have to, & telling me about it will be beneficial of course.

No. I don't fully then! (I understood how the mis-com happened, is what I meant right there: tho until I'm proved right that your sketch -did- have the nogs at r-angles to Mr. Red above.. I guess I don't understand this either! & you'll leave me hanging on it too.. I know that much!). Doesn't matter now/ water under bridge/ I move on.

Ok that's perfectly reasonable- so I can ask this to my BCO. He was in a good mood y'day. Damn I hope I don't have to do: its 24x or so with 4 rows of boards inc my dark blue strip.

No I can appreciate that. I haven't yet even approached or know of, a plasterer to ask. This is why I was asking the tricky Q of: 'can anyone give an approx cost of what I might be looking twds for skimming both rooms vs only both ceilings'.. not an easy one to answer I appreciate.

Tbh Peter I can't now see where I got to (threads been deleted) in conclusion, SE or TE boards for walls. I've seen an alarming quote one regular member got for 2x rooms plastering (£1.8k).. so I have to go without skimming walls, surely. If I go just skim only 2x ceilings.. I need compound & tape for the walls.

So I think I concluded I'm going skim both ceilings, & TE boards for the walls.. but threads been deleted so I don't know. Ok so I need jointing compound, & the tape that goes on 1st. Can anyone recommend a compound, & what ammount for two 3.8 x 4m rooms? (only walls). I don't want 3/4 of excess if I can avoid it. thanks.

Ok now I understand. Thanks. Its added a ton of work I'd no idea of then! I still can't quite get it tho (apart from it being belt/ braces which I can see the logic of) if my joists are only 300mm between, & 100mm W. Now looking at my builders' ceiling pB job upstairs.. there are 300mm gaps all over the shop between fixings (many 500mm). Its shoddily done, & you'd have a fit, but not alarmingly-so, to me. But can you not see that altho your sketches always appreciated.. it has (broken-line) noggins in opposite/ perp to the red eg above-? Onoff there's no googling to have solved this mystery! it would only increaced my confusion if I'd read a noggin is inherrantly perp to a joist (as I 1st thought > then sketch suggested otherwise > & now I'm back concluding a noggin likely is & only ever is perp to a joist). Hence I naturally ask the q's I did. And you blow a gasket! I still may be wrong re. your sketch.. but I'm 99.9% sure those broken-line additionals were/ are facing twds the viewer, not to the sides like red-nog above is. Hey-ho. many thx tho- zoot.

@Onoff hallelujah! I now understand what you were on about. Mostly. Thanks for your patience to explain this. I had no idea that I needed any noggins perpendicular to the joists. I had -only- the notion of "extending" a joists' width, so if my board end fell short, my board end can fall on the new timber inserted (this -is- what is suggested on the other sketch.. the broken line additional timbers are parralel with the joists, not perp.. if I can recall: the thread, & all info I need within it, having been deleted). Ok so let me get this right (with this new [to me] above info confusion has now shifted, not gone away). Are you suggesting I need a whole series of (in your diagram above with the single red noggin) 18x noggins put in, between the light blue & green 'long sides' of the boards ----and----- the very long join between the dark blue 320mm board & adjacent long side of boards? Or.. is your suggestion I ----only---- need noggins at the meeting of the dark blue & other boards? (& your red noggin is just an eg of what a noggin is.. rather than an actual placement-suggestion in my ceiling?).

@andyscotland can I ask you please: I have an area of ceiling left, after I plasterboard it with full width 1200mm boards as much as I can, a gap left of 320mm. So the room width 3800mm x 320mm. So I need two bits: one full length board cut thin to 320mm, plus 1400mm x 320mm bit. Is the long thin 2400mm x 320mm section a viable size? or is it a recipe for disaster/ you never use such a long thin bit.. IE cut it up or something? (I know its tagged on to this thread.. but I have no option). Thanks

Great that's a plan then. finishing touches so a while off. cheers zoot

Am I allowed to glue the nosing to the cill? Its a piece of 'natural' slate/ not a thick solid bit either.. may well split or break if muggins drills into it.

The reason is, as I've said before, I miss replies (I did not see joe90 had even done a reply w'sketch). If the system notifies only 90% of the time (ive mentioned the need for #post numbers, so its far from a perfect system) then you get used to clicking on notify boxes, & don't get used to refreshing the page 2x a day in case a reply's got through. So it's not that I'm stupid enough not to understand a simple picture as you suggest. it's because I haven't seen it. Thanks for the diagrams/ info how to fill this gap chaps- appreciated.

But isn't it easier to just fill it with PIR? I don't need to glue if friction-very-tightly in. just trim off top to floor level. no?

Understood. But why didn't I just butt the floor up to the threshold.. because I had to have an expansion gap (aparantly), so how would this wood addition not negate the whole idea? this is why I thought PIR so it could expand into it, if it had to, in theory.

Heightwise, no its 2cm less. But its the extent to which the floor extends to, relative to the threshold, is my Q here. So it stops 10mm short, so you step over this gap (the width of the threshold). Rain will get to the chipboard edge here (around the walls/ everywhere else the gap is n/a of course).

What about stuffing some PIR into here.. being a 22mm x 10mm x 500mm long wee trench. Then the tile squares can ride over > butt up over right up to the slate > silicone bead along. Are you allowed to suggest things yourself on a forum? or just me going mental probably.

Yes but the thing is the only hire tool place is closed currently, & small so I'd think unlikely they'd have one. We don't have a Hirestation- I'm wild west wales totally reliant on one town & its not big either. I do need to ask one last thing on the caber boards: I've left the usual 10mm expansion gap @ my threshold, away from the slate sill/ threshold section itself.. & this seems the most susceptible bit to get rained on if not moisture off wet feet etc. What to do here?

Great then that's the fella.. that even beats ebay best price/ really appreciated joe90. If I get my oorse in gear with this it'll prompt me to get the pB (I'm a bit reticent on this heavy 15mm 8x4' stuff I gotta use, just me etc).. but it ain't gonna do itself. Ok I'm going to call this end of thread.. & need a fresh start/ do one for my pB job, as it's gonna be a big job for me.. & if I c*cked the floor job up.. HUGE THANKS ALL. JOB DONE.

Ok thanks. I'm limited out here to buying (& selling on) on ebay, so needs to be pack-downable for me to shift the bugger on!

Very useful info joe90.. thanks for this. I'll look out for this type of lifter > sell on. Ideal if they packed down but I don't suppose they all do as a rule like this one? How much was yours joe90?

I don't want to see him until final inspection! so defo not calling him now.

Yes that makes sense- they could tell if the floor ok solid, & if PIR under by feel underfoot.. & its H tells what ammount of PIR in. If I call... he gets all sgt major 'no/ must do xyz' as I'm a newbie!

Would it be normal to not tile/ carpet/ whatever over caber floors -before- BCO comes along to check my interior build xyz? this'll be 2 months away min now. Or could I do it prior to him coming do you think?