oranjeboom

Last month, my mother's boiler kept dropping pressure (SE England). I went round a couple of times to re-pressurise and on 3rd occasion, after a quick check of pipes I spotted a couple of small leaks in the cellar (soldered joints on T piece and a reducing joint). I told her I would fix it 'soon'. Of course with my own renovations to sort out she phoned up her usual plumber and he soon turned up. I duly received the phone call from my mum who handed me over to the plumber asking me where the leak was. I told him where to go and told him that the first leak was at point X and the 2nd one was approx 20cm on from there, right next to the floor joist. Turns out that he fixed the first one, but could not locate the 2nd one and of course after he left the pressure dropped on the boiler, meaning he had to return to 'locate' the 2nd leak and sort that out...but not that day..."cos I'm too busy, will be back tomorra....". This meant he spent a lot of time faffing around, 'going for parts', draining the system twice, adding inhibitor...yada yada yada... On receipt of the bill, even I was somewhat surprised when it came to £270 excluding VAT. Does this sound ludicrous? Or is this just the Dutchness in me thinking she's been ripped off? Plumber didn't even have to lift any floorboards, access was easy in the cellar and I told him exactly where the TWO leaks were. Not our issue that he ignored my instructions on the 2nd leak and that he had to come back to fix that separately). He also managed to split a copper pipe that fed that rad above the cellar and replaced that with a bit of plastic pipe. Bill details: Check cellar pipework and located leak to reducing tee fitting Drained down system, removed pipework and fitting Remade new pipework and fittings Fitted with inhibitor, vented and tested and found 2nd leak Repeated above All in, we estimate that he spent a total of approx 6hrs on this! Even I reckon I could have fixed this in half that time. Parts-wise would have cost me no more than £30 for inhibitor and some compression fittings. Would it be fair to pay the muppet half of this bill? This was not some big emergency call out - an easy, uncomplicated job!! Am I being unrealistic with this bill??

+1 for UK/OzForex.

Are they internorm-approved installers? Would have thought they know how to do this 'properly'? I have the same setup here - full sized sidelight next to window. Also just fixes to each other, but inherently potential for air gaps. I would have thought some sort of gasket would be stuck on the frame before the two parts are affixed to each other. That should happen before...I would have thought. I would have favoured that approach rather than trying to seal it up afterwards. Not sure what type of gasket you would need to get.

Did you fill your cavity? I too need to do this for may of my windows. I think with EPS the risk of dampness is minimal.....but best to get the experts on here to confrim. You may find that the cavity 'extends' out along the entirety of the wall down the the footings (likely i think) and that you will need quite a few beads...not just your average bean bag size! And pick a draughtless day....those beads will move like a ferrari if you even fart!

Thanks for that Daiking - this one worked!

Thanks Onoff. But did anyone get this to work? I have £45 in my trolley, applied promo code (TS268FEB), but computah says "The promo code is invalid". Voucher expires tonight. Smallprint does not state any restrictions. Anything to save a £5...

Yes, I have used Marmox TB's but only for SIP walls. Nice and light to carry around!

Middle of the frame seems the most optimal position in my case - slap bang in the middle of the SIP. I also didn't want too much sill either internally or externally. They are inward opening so I'd like the internal cills cluttter free (not that we'll open them up much with the MHVR). And I'm thinking that as I am having cedar cladding rather than some specialised system that needs costly 'specialised fixings' the cladding is pretty versatile to cut to size around the window frame. If I come across an 'oh shit' moment I'll flag it up here so that others don't follow in my errors. Watch this space! Cills not even ordered yet so I was not able to play around with them on the window. But they'll be bespoke alu ones so I can determine size. slope etc once all windows are in. There is sufficient fall with my actual window profile which also has a 'cill extension profile' underneath the main frame (in red below). The alu cill will attach to this and I will have sufficient slope. The first windows are in at least - no major dramas. Onto figuring out how to fit the others that will be fitted on brackets outside of the cavity brick walls (then finished off with EWI later).

Best to have the window within the thermal layer - in my my case that will be within the SIP frame rather than the void between the SIP and the cladding. It's not a Nordern window - I just borrowed that detail from them to illustrate what I plan to do. Yes, my VPC will be on the interior, with the external breather membrane on the outside. The latter will be further shielded by the timber cladding. Any penetration via the cill will be caught by the DPC... But there should not be any issues with the cill of course. Yes, only adding the DPC as extra security. Good idea about the upstand. Yes, I did have some concerns about the weight also but was thinking of having a few spacers under the frame to support the weight: 50mm from corners and then every 400mm. That is better than one bracket manufacturer recommends for their window brackets. The largest window for this extension only weighs 100kg, so with with enough support evenly spaced under the frame, it should be okay. The UPVC frame also contains a steel internal frame - less likelihood of warping. My other option would be to use XPS/cellotex under the frame maybe?

As good as I can get, but not aiming for anything. This is an extension to an old bungalow which will probably leak like a sieve if tested. Having said that, I will be aiming to get it right where possible, especially with doors and windows. I was going to have a VPC layer on the interior wall - i.e. over the membrane and then up and over the DPC and stuck down to the window frame using airtightness tape. I'll add that to the pic a bit later. With above approach, I should hopefully get a decent seal with the VPC lapping over the DPC and then sticking down the VPC on innermost window frame edge (next to the No.10 in pic) Yes, not using straps on these windows - I tried to delete them from the pic. So the frame will just be screwed into place (though they'll probably want to use nail guns which I wont allow in case I ever need to adjus/remove the frames). I'll have to check my tolerances, but yeah should be therabouts. SIPs have been in place for just over a year now, so hoping the biggest contraction/settling/movement has taken place.

Very level and square. So I think I may just add some over-long battens in there to raise the frames 20-25mm and then remove them once the foam has all set. As Jack alluded to, it's for condensation, though probably a bit of overkill.

Have the window installers coming tomorrow to fit some of the 3G UPVC windows and I'd just like to ensure that they are doing it the 'correct way'. We've agreed that they only install the windows with me doing the finishing off later with cills, taping etc. So I just need to be sure that they fit the 88mm frame at the mid point of the 175mm SIP wall. Externally, I will have wall fitted with cladding. Questions So my only questions today are around tomorrow's fitting of the window, all the other weather tightness aspects will come later. But the placement of the window will be important to get right of course as that will impact the follow-on work. So currently in my head, I have: Breather membrane (that's currently sealing up the window opening) to be cut and folded inwards over window reveal. DPC on top of breather membrane extending outwards under cill and over cladding (NB note the 30mm air gap between cladding and SIP). How do I stick it down - or just use the weight of the window frame? Fit frame directly on top of the SIP (on DPC layer) or on compressible layer? I have concerns about compression/shrinkage of the panels - From what have read there won't be much compression of the SIP panels but I'd like to cater for any movement and any pressure on the window frames by not filling the gap around the window and SIPs with anything solid. I think I have a 20mm gap around the window so there is hopefully sufficient allowance for any 'movement'. During installation I'm looking to leave that 20mm gap (i.e. not get the installers to just sit the window frame directly on top of the panel) by putting some temporary packers/shims in there to ensure non of the frame is touching the panel. Once the frame is all screwed in, I was going to fill the gap between the frame and SIPs with foam (Soudal non-expanding type/equivalent). Or should I go for a compressible filler? But what should I be using? I've looked at Compriband stuff, but that is just too pricey for my liking, so was hoping to just use Soudal type stuff which I could do if the window is sitting on removable shims I've attached a window detail that I found on the www (from Nordan) that I have amended. Ignore the window frame detail itself - mine is UPVC. If anyone could comment on the above 3 items that would be great. The guys arrive tomorow and I just need to ensure that the correct materials are in place before they start doing it all 'their way'. TIA! OB

Right then, I'll PM you my address!! Will stock up on the 'redbull' in the meantime - you may need a few.

Hi Jack, what are you doing this weekend? My front door is too small for us in this case, so no options there. It's a beefy door and I think a bit of a 'elf'n'safety' issue if we rely on people to manually carry it. Would not want any injuries with this one! install cost of 4.5k is for 21 doors/windows, not just this beast! But it is more expensive when I was getting quotes within the UK for manufacture which was around 3k. I'm in Kent and there doesn't seem to be a lack of work here for the trades so do get some crazy quotes back. But if you and Jack want to pop along this weekend just let me know (still got the Welsh flag on the scaffolding so easy to find).

Doors are quite long (4.7m) and high (2.5m) and are heavy (800kg).It's all on a pallet already, but would have to cross tarmac, grass and a bit of a slope also (probably 45m in total). Crane with all insurances will be approx £1500plus VAT. Plus the window fitting quote of £3-4.5k. I've actually had another quote from another firm today and they came in at 4.5k and they didn't mention crane at all and neither did I question too much how they would do it. As long as I end up with a door that functions is as airtight as possible.... .Pictures? It'll be in the press "Crane destroys newbuild. Wife files for divorce" Hopefully this other glazing firm can do the job without a crane - will no doubt be back on here with more BS and problems.

The door is already here, sitting in the driveway. Of course the fitters that agreed to fit all doors and windows changed their minds when they looked at the door weights etc (even though I sent them all the flipping drawings, weights, dimensions). So I'll likely go with someone else and get a crane in. The big door has to go round the back of the house (circa 22m), so plan is to crane it into the opening, i.e. get the bottom of the door in first at an angle, and then with some slack, push the top of the door into position (ensuring we don't push it over!!), Will probably just cut the slings insitu if we can't leverage them out. Yes, was going to attach some 'guide ropes (?)' to stop it spinning as once over the hedge it will easily catch the breeze that we get here from the adjacent fields. It all arrived as one complete product (fully glazed doors fitted in frame) to save on transport costs and minimise risks. Fitters had a look at taking doors out and it's not possible without taking frame apart which seems risky. They also did not want to deglaze the 3G glass (240g each). Have another crane company quoting today. Getting my bank manager ready for another loan....

Too late!!!!! I was thinking that was a big/secure phone phone box!!! The problem I have is that the rig will most likely hit the gable roof if the crane is down the side of the house. There's a field next door, but that will be too cumbersome (farmer's permission, trees, matting required) and I reckon with all the extra gear required will probably cost more.

Yes, I found that there was not much in it from the quotes I have received so far, but will definitely go fro contracted lift. Did have a guy offer me a cash deal but it's not worth the risk with 800kg of glass spinning 15m above in the breeze! And I think some offer Insurance “on the hook” which should cover damage to the doors.

Thanks Jamie. Windows were imported from EU and were precariously unloaded a few weeks ago with a forklift and a sideloader, so hoisting them over with a Hiab on arrival is not an option. Would not have been possible anyway as the weight is too much/reach required is too far (25m). Think you lose circa 1t for every horizontal metre so the working radius is simply too far for most smaller cranes including spiders/hiabs. I'll just have to bite the bullet and go for a 40t crane. Good point about the runners under the windows. My 800kg doors have re-inforced steel in the frame so hoping the warping is minimised. If we place runner underneath, then we won't be able to get it out as the door will have to be placed into the opening straight away and I cant see how we will lift that to remove the runner The insurance I will have to look into for sure. Don't want any mishaps with plant, property or people!

I've got a sliding door that weighs circa 800kg and the best way to get it to the back of the house is via means of a crane. Extra expense at just under £1k which includes insurance for the crane, but not for the door. It can get breezy here and I want to be sure that if it all goes wrong (i.e. crane topples over into the house, smashing the new roof, skylights and ultimately the door), then I need the security that I'm fully covered. Site insurance only seems to cover plant hire up to around 20k - not quite enough for a £1m crane, so I will simply have to fork out on the separate crane insurance that the crane firm have offered (£260). How about my door? Contractors fitting that won't take responsibility for that. I don't have site insurance yet, but will that cover me if the worst happens? I'll be getting site insurance soon in any case as most of the trades will be showing up in the next 6months now (most bits were done by me up to this point/or contractors had insurance). Thanks!

I used Marmox Thermoblocks under my sole plate. Also ££ but I think may have been slightly cheaper. I did end up going to Belgium as local merchant (Jewson) messed me around with supply of the size I was after. Worth checking on lead times and don't believe anything your merchants tell you - go direct to manufacturer for confirmation on UK stock. Blocks were easy to lay and nice and light to carry around. And should help protect the sole plate.

Firstly, my condolences to you and your bank account. I had piles last year and it was (financially) painful! Secondly, it's worth getting as many quotes as you can as some firms will take the pi55. You don't want to get screwed. I ended up going to about 25 companies in the end. With that piling calcs doc, I would just send that to each company - it's very detailed and they can't deviate from that too much. Once you have short-listed, maybe run them by your structural eng folk - probably worth an extra 1-2hrs review in case they see any issues with the quotes/details you get back. I was lucky in that my old man is a geologist, so we were able to choose accordingly. I had 'std' piles, not the screw type ones, so imagine yours will be a bit easier on the wallet! Most piling contractors work nationally as it's pretty $pecilia$t. I can PM you the two that I short-listed/used.

Perfect! Sounds like what we are after. No reflections is what I am after too. The stuff I have ripped down from my old place was T&G-like but is actually just one big sheet that resembles T&G, so I suspect the Eurocell will be the same. Funnily enough I'vd just read that the vented sheets are not for roofs above 15deg! Seems a bit strange...you'd think the air current coming down a roof internally would cope finding it' way through the vents whether 15deg or not.

Thanks Jeremy. You survived the garage then! Did you get your supply from a local merchant? Your black colour must have been their 'Black ash', correct? (http://www.eurocell.co.uk/homeowners/fascias-and-soffits/fascia-boards) I didn't want to have a painted woody appearance, but if it's passed your scrutiny, then I probably can't go too far wrong! Seems somewhat limited in their offerings though. I need 250mm wide vented soffit board but can only get that in black at 300mm, so I pay more and then slice off 50mm!!! I'll probably have to mix and match with other brands as long as the colour is the same.

Did you make it out the garage Jeremy or got pinned under by the amount of 'spare's in there? I'm just looking to order fascia and soffit boards also, so if you did manage to get in (and out !)of the garage, then I'd also be grateful to know. Seems there is a lot of cr@p on the market and often difficult to tell online how good a product really is.