oranjeboom

Still waiting Ferdinand ? Better have another brandy!

You just enjoy your flamin' brandy!! Maybe I should have a pint of the stuff here... Not a time for me to start messing with a digger indoors - will probably take out the ceiling too!!

I need to get 275mm EPS70 in, I could do less and then make up the difference with a thinner layer of PIR. But the cost of PIR vs wacker hire and 2days(?) work is probably going to be more. Woodchip? Just leave that on....I'm sure that will make a comeback eventually.... Yes, will just tackle it room by room and have the contractor's face projected onto the floor with an old projector I have lying around....as I wacker him to bits... Lesson for both of us Jeremy - trust our own calcs and double quibble everything!!

They'd probably do a better job than aforementioned contractor. I recall reading that in your blog Jeremy. Not just me that gets shat on then! "better to chuck too much in than too little" seems to be the approach here. Did you re-use the 30t elsewhere? More flack for me too from the boss tonight now doubt about the latest setback! Either way of removing layers will mean me having to shift barrow loads up scaffold boards out the front door and then having to make space out the front first. Just all a PIA!!

Thanks Declan. Not what I want to hear really. I think I will try and get that big whacker (140kg) and see what it does. I really don't want to extract all down to 80mm and whacker layer by layer. Hopefully a big'un will do it. @Onoff - what are you doing next week????

That was my fear too. And I had reservations that they'd added to much type 1 in the first place. And that makes sense as the 18t originally shipped in was not enough for them! Cowboys!

Admins, please move thread to another area if this isn't the best area! Okay, I had contractor to come and dig up my old slab (100mm) and then proceed to remove a further 375 of soil. They then barrowed back in 150-160mm of type 1. They proceeded to compact it with their wacker which IMHO was too small for the job. But they kept going....and of course they didn't get to the required 100mm compacted level. I spoke to the contractor and he said he would be back today (early!!!) and would come back with a decent whacker that they use for roads. I thought they'd use a roller for that, not a whacker but who am I to say what's best.... Anyway, looks like the £250 retainer that I kept back wasn't enough to get him back to finish the job off. The bar steward has not showed up and is not answering my calls. Should have retained a bigger amount but I stupidly trusted the man. And the two barrows and rake they left behind aren't going to make up for things. I could be livid, but I'm fairly used to it in this country that homeowners get shafted like this. It's a way of life. Just look at the TV shows that rely on these 'cowboy' trades. And trying to take things up via the small claims court is just not worth the effort and expense. So rather than get angry about it, I'd like to channel any negative thoughts into getting the job finished. And rather than get someone else in, I'll probably tackle the 88sqm myself. The small whacker they had was clearly not up to the task of crushing the 160mm down to 100mm. Think they used a 450mm plate (83kg). What do I need to get this done? In most places I will need to go down another 40-50mm. Would this baby do the job? http://www.jewson.co.uk/tool-hire/compaction/plate-compactors/products/2530/reversible-plate-compactor-500mm/ Do-able in a day? I need to go down another 50mm as otherwise I won't get sufficient EPS under the new floor slab.And that was the whole flamin' point in going down do deep in the first place Mr R. BlXXXMAA of AXXXFXXW, you !"£%^&*()_+ !!!!!!! Can't wait to write up my review on MyBuilder...... red pen = excavation level, white marker = 100mm compaction level, red marker = top of hardcore bloody uneven too!! not really clear, but room centres are a lot higher too. Ideally I don't want to remove any hardcore and then compact and then add a bit back in, compact...... Advice, options? No replies on cowboy tactics, my gulliibility etc pls. That's another thread-starter....

Not knocking down now: Doing a retrospective blog...

Having rented all my life, desperation set in after being gazumped, shafted and outbid in the so-called 'property game'. But it's no game if there's no fun! Finally, after getting lucky with an honest and reliable estate agent, I came across a place on the fringes of a small Kent village.The empty property was snapped up by us as soon as we laid eyes on it. Overgrown, but cared for, it dates from the early 1950s and was (is!) structurally sound. Lots of vegetation on the plot and lots of it too close and too big, right next to the building. Loose gutters, heavy concrete roof tiles. It had it's issues being dated, oil central heating and a bit cramped with only 2.5bedrooms. It was also badly laid out with only 2 bedrooms looking out to the rear 1/2 acre plot. Things needed re-jigging, and in doing so, we would also extend the place.

Yes, with hindsight should have knocked the place down. But I hate to 'waste things' whether that is from chucking out 70yr old battens or knocking down a house! Not compelled to lie down naked on the hardcore either. I was inclined to do the 'big dig' myself, a room at a time, but I wanted to save my back a bit. I gave them a hand yesterday with barrow-filling but even after almost £3k for labour and type1, I don't regret forking out. Almost 95cu metres of hardcore, earth and type 1 out and back in!. No digger either. Looks like I will have to get my sand and level out then. Nice pics Onoff - need to upload my blog...

For the best really. At least my flamin' team didn't take the effort in qualifying. Anyway, back to the topic in hand. I've had the old floor slab removed and a further 375mm of soil removed. 160ishmm hardcore back in, but so far not compacted down to 100mm. They were using a lightweght wacker though and they're now saying they will be using some heavyweight thing they use for roads etc (as long as it's not some heavy duty roller that will shake the foundations/walls! But how level does the hardcore need to be? I'd like it really level as my insulation needs to go in next with 100mm concrete. After their first attempt it's undulating more than the Welsh valleys. I'd prefer to have my EPS slabs flat too, but I guess they will squish down with the 100mm concrete on top. I'm just wary of voids being created when the concrete is poured and having some areas thicker than others. I think the best approach would be to have plenty of sand blinding in there to have it all pretty level and I can see me doing that for a few days getting it all in, level and flat.

Bloody nice goal!! Hope you're busy peeling Nick!!

I doubt their system would be any cheaper than the quotes I've got so far anyway. So won't be waiting for their 'engineers' to come out! Better safe than sorry and for a small area like that a bit of mesh isn't going to cost that much. Only reason I am wanting to mesh it really is to lift the pipes off the insulation and closer to surface for a slightly quicker response time. And I guess the extra strength will help too. Well, I guess they just send the quote over to the manufacturers and then slap on their profit. But you would think if a client says he/she wants xyb instead of xyz, then they should just quote for xyb. I thought the customer is always correct? Had a similar response when I spoke to a window installer the other day about fixing my windows within the EWI layer using brackets - "Oh, well I wouldn't do it like that if they were my windows....". Just because he's been doing it his way for 30yrs there obviously is no evolution in how windows can be fitted properly. A right smug, opinionated git he was too. I may just use him to prove it can all be done though! I digress....

Hi Onoff, I think I copied your 20-pager topic from the 'other side' - taken up most of my usb stick! So you used both mesh and panels? Presume you used the mesh for extra structural support/strength? Ohhh....not sure whether using Polypipe panels with another GENERIC pipe is compatible...WHAT WERE YOU THINKING? Polypipe police are on their way...

Well, local merchants have just come back to me to say that PolyPipe will have to come for a site visit as they are unsure about tying the pipe to the mesh??? I guess their preference is to use their pipes with their panel system, screeded on top. Scared of the mesh rusting through into the pipework maybe? Not sure how that is going to happen if the mesh is entirely 'sealed off' from air and moisture?? Oh, and I can't use bamboo with them either. Even though there are numerous folk here whom have tied pipework to mesh and then concreted rather than screeded. As for the bamboo....well, a quick google would tell them that they are plenty of bamboo products out there. Think I will just play it safe and have no UFH at all. Since people walking on the floor may squish and break dem pipes.

Yes Jeremy, so far Wunda are one of the better priced ones I have received. I think they will beat like-for-like also, so will see what the cheapest one I get is like. Though it's more important that the hardware is sufficient and is easy enough to lay for a DIYer. To be honest, I have no idea how 'low I can go' with the temperatures. Most of the floors I am laying are in a 1950's bungalow (Cavity insulated, further 100mm EWI to follow, 3G passive windows, plenty of loft insulation). The floors will be 275mm EPS70 and I think that should give me a floor u-value of 0.038. The extension floors will be better than that. Lots of large south facing windows so I can use your concept of redistributing heat gain from that area elsewhere in the house.

Apologies about another "who shall I contact?) posting. Again, I just don't want to miss out on any obvious suppliers/merchants out there and as insulation is one of may main cost areas, I'm looking to get the best price I can....obviously. I'm looking to get a mix of EPS and PIR for under slab and slabs for in between rafters ("frametherm"). I've tried some merchants that people here have suggested before on ebuild including the following: Minster Encon SIG Ecclestone & Hart And a host of local merchants and online-only outlets (Less2build, InsulationGiant, Insulation Express). so far, some are double the cost!!! Any obvious ones worth trying please? Again, I'll post my results on here for future readers to try too! Thanks.

If I lay circa 400mm of loft roll on top of ducting would that be adequate?

Yes, they almost convinced me about their floor science too. Almost bought one on their retrofit systems (Lo-pro) for my uninstalled slab until I started reading up on here (well ebuild). Nu-heat have a very slick site, easy quoting layout and I can see how people just click'n'buy. Not against their product(s) but they seem keen to flog you something that will work but cost you the earth to run! And yes, Barney, the prices are sky-high (more than double what others are quoting me!). Even mentioning that NickfromWales is my best friend won't get me far with Nu-heat! I'm sure there is lots of bling bling that's not required in some of these quotes. Still waiting on some other quotes to come in. Will post them here for future reference and googlers.

Thanks Nick - I'll say the Welshman's sent me! : ) and expect a massive reduction (being a stingey Dutchman...).

Now that almost 50t of rubble and soil have been excavated from the old bungalow I'm looking to get some further quotes in for UFH. Looking to DIY this with a plumber doing the final connections to boiler etc and helping me commission. I've had a 2-3 quotes in already but just want to cover all bases. This is who I have contacted so far: Wunda Nu-heat Continental (UFH1) Boulder Anyone obvious that I have missed or is worth trying? I've also contacted local plumbing supplier but I'm finding more and more that the locals prove to be more £££. I recall NickfromWales is always recommending someone, but I can't find my notes about whom that was now....Byron @ Boulder? Thanks! OB

I'm looking to get a MHVR into my reno/extension project. Not decided on what system to buy yet for my 175sqm-ish space, but can I install the ducting already to get that out of the way? Are most ducting systems compatible with the units? Most of the ducting will be easy to route as it's 80% loft.

How about creating a frame out of scaffolding and then tie down some corrugated sheets for roofing? That's my plan for all my gear that I need to shift from the house before I put the UFH in.

I'm just cladding a shed at the moment with wood that I stored from last year and it is noticeably lighter than when it was first delivered. I've got sufficient space to store it for a few months to purchase the cedar now and then fit it later in the year. Have you stored your wood in a shed/barn or just tarp? I guess if it's got a proper roof over it, it's less prone to water leakage through the tarp and is better ventilated to dry a bit quicker? And is this the type of meter you have or you have a more £££ one? https://www.amazon.co.uk/Moisture-Meter-Detector-building-materials/dp/B0036PSX0K

best to spray before putting it up then?