Iceverge

Got ya. Electric heater kicks in when it gets too cold for the heat pump. Matching a suitable one for our climate isn't too hard though.

We had an air change rate of 0.31 ACH and yet the calculated equivilant leaky hole in the house was still 49cm2, plenty to keep a bathroom fan satisfied. Believe me the air will come from somewhere in an old house.

I made a poor quality video trying to explain this.

Reading the internet people don't seem unduly concerned about metal insulated panels for noise. It's certainly nothing compared to a uninsulated metal roof. You can get mineral wool sandwich panels too. Which should preformed excellently.

Builders are conservative beasts, understandably so, as big a recall to a job could break them, so they stick with what they know. However this can lead to change paralysis, where they won't every try anything new and will make every excuse under the sun to avoid it. Insulated metal sheeting is technically far simpler to construct than an EDPM roof, and in my opinion far less lightly to go wrong. Get the Kingspan data sheet and give it to your builder and cajole them along the way. They'll probably soften out quickly enough once they think about it.

They tend to be specced for cooling in a warm climate. Put them in a cool/damp climate and ask them to do some heating and they run into trouble. I think the outdoor units are just far to small to cope without icing up. A2A for heating is quite popular in Scandinavia. When picking mine I went to the Norwegian websites of the manufacturers and checked their offerings. I ended up getting the unit from a Italian company through eBay based on the spec from that.

Most British people don't want more houses really. Other than for themselves of course.

Put a value on your time and see where it lands. On the above example, as the span is small no other structural roof work would be needed. No joists, rafters purlins etc I've seen metal sheeting in pretty good condition after 60 years and zero treatment had been applied. No problems as a habitable room. It's the same as this from 13:32.

Plug that in and set to heat on a damp day in the British Isles and you'll quickly have block of ice on the outdoor unit.

Insulated metal sheeting is by far the simplest and cheapest solution for a small span like that. I would raise the pitch to at least 4deg (about 1:14) by raising the rear wall plate or taking a row of bricks off the front wall. Could completely dispense with all the internal timbers then too as the span looks like it's only about 2.5m.

Any pictures? Inside and outside please. If you plan to use it as a habitable space later I would be tempted to put some insulation in there at the same time. Depending on the quality of the rest of the structure then it might be cheaper to rebuild the whole thing if you want it habitable.

Did you manage to get any useful readings from it?

True, I didn't think of multi story apartments. I like the idea of a "monoblock" a2a as anybody can install one. I've seen claims of a COP of 3 but I'm not sure if it's accurate.

We did both, Studded and block built the small bits. Studding is probably easier. Remember it significantly strengthens the outer wall of you tie it in correctly to it.

Yeah we did a sheet of OSB with a fan in a window. It sealed nicely against the gaskets. Dead easy, just measure the tilt and turn sash and cut the OSB the same. It stayed in there for weeks.

Make a DIY blowerdoor fan yourself before Aerobarrier come. You will get 90% of the way there by yourself.

These units are the wrong way around in my view. They should be outside the house with the heated air going through the ducts into the house. They'd be much quieter then as they wouldn't be trying to push too much air through too small a hole.

Pretty happy with this so far. The WiFi app makes schedules etc pretty straight.

Can you pull them out until you have enough ventilation space? Maybe when the BC is gone shove something in there like this to stop the bugs.

Go and poke at it in person. Check the condition of the seals bricks etc. Roughly in what corner of the country are you and I might have a scan of eBay in a while for something suitable.

You won't get any drafts but the stove and chimney will still be drafting pulling cold air through the firebox and up the chimney. The stove will be cool to touch this cooling the room. Ideally you would close an inlet valve on the stove and shut a flue damper to stop this.

You've lost me. The profiled sheets having ventilation above the guttering will be adequate for the roof. What has cavity barriers in the gable ends got to do with it.

It's the roof they'll be worried about. Do some sums to show an adequate free area in the "up"ridges of the sheeting. And how they match the open space under the ridge cap. It'll be more than sufficient to ventilate the roof.

Wow, if you could find district heating from somewhere I think you'd have every single type of heating device. Any pics?

Lovely house. I don't know how to passify the BC but if you have done a good job with Airtightness you won't have any issues with moisture. The only reason for requiring a hurricane of wind blowing through people's roof is because they make a completely inadequate attempt to air seal and correctly ventilate the interior. The profiles cladding can ventilate above the chutes at both sides anyway and that ridge won't be airtight. I can't see any issues.