Iceverge

What's you alternative, moistureboard? It's nothing special. I wouldn't build a boat out of either. PVA ain't gonna do much. Tank the hell out of the normal stuff and it'll be fine.

If it gets too thick it'll take the cab off his jalopy though! Here's a question for the engineers. @Gus Potter @saveasteading and anyone else I forgot. We regularly scissor timbers beside eachother for more strength. Why don't we make "I" beams? Wouldn't this be a far stronger arrangement of three 175*44 timbers say than 3 of them scissored together? Sure it would take some glue and screws but why wouldn't it work?

For what it's worth though I wouldn't do standing seam at all and would just use normal profiled sheeting. @saveasteading had some professional experience of this being a better option.

I think @Patrick did this. I'm not a fan of standing seam straight down on top of ply. It gives nowhere for the water to dry to if it gets in there. Normal sarking boards might not be the ultimate option either. As there'll be a membrane on top of them, you risk making a moisture trap between the membrane and the sarking. This isn't a issue with slates as there's plenty of air gaps between them. I would do something like. Standing seam, Closely spaced sarking boards but not touching, Counter batten along the line of the rafters to create ventilation gap. Roof membrane, Rafters.

My frame of reference for this is a loft we build in a shed on the farm. It's about 6m span with 9*3 sawn timbers @450mm cc. These are full fat, hairy, skin on timbers cut on the farm so there's a good bit more to them than a regularised commercial timber. None the less they hold , at a guess, about 4tonnes of material although it is mostly more long timber planks so the load is probably partially carried by the planks themselves. I'm not sure if put 4 tonnes of sand up there.

£6k, oh dear. I assumed that it was some chancers who were just rinsing a £2k government grant with a token £6 from her. Scurrilous behaviour.

Yes but I was being a bit more conservative and suggesting 9. It worked out nicely so that each rafters was falling half way between or on a post too. Honestly, I think I'd need to draw it accurately so I could mentally "jump" on it to see if it looked ok!

Or broken

Box profile only needs to supported every 1200mm so I don't think you need anywhere near as many "joist B". The 6m span is the tricky part and all the timber going the other direction isn't doing a tremendous amount really. I'm not sure Filch beams are worth the complexity. Steel would prob be easier at that rate. On both these counts I don't like having timber interfacing with steel in an unheated environment ,if it's avoidable, as the condensation that the steel attracts will rot the timber eventually. Finger in the air, farmer "engineering" here...... I'll try to avoid anything bigger than 225*75 as it doubles the price very quickly. I would erect 5 x 150*150 posts at 1500mm centres along the low and high side of the carport. Notch the tops of the posts and drop in a single 225*75mm timber running the full length of the carport as an end support beam. Add appropriate diagonal bracing on the low side to stop it wobbling. Drop 9x 225*75mm rafters on top at 750mm centres and secure them to the end beams with metal straps. Add 225*44mm noggins at 1200mm centres to take the fixings for the metal roofing. I would put a roofing membrane under the metal roofing too to stop it dripping in winter.

I reckon your right @scottishjohn. You can get standing seam effect roof cladding sheets. I haven't seen them in person but the pics look convincing enough and are cheap as best I remember. https://skyclad.ie/cladding/standing-seam/

How do you find them. Forget Google, go on your local planning portal and trawl through the lists of applications in your area for similar projects. It is time consuming. Make a list of a few of the architects you like. Read their interactions with the planners, if you can. It'll give a good view of who actually "gets" how the systems works. It's amazing how many don't. Knock on doors and get a report from the owners. Once you have a short list ring them for a quick chat to see if you actually can work with them. Pay one or two to do a rough sketch of their ideas with your budget etc in mind and you should be fairly close to a decision. Honestly, it would be easier to find a new spouse!

There are three types of architects I can think of. The first, abrasive genius megalomaniacs, who design mega ego palaces, with teams of engineers stressing about how the thing stays up. Occasionally you end up with something remarkable like a Sydney opera house. Invariably timelines and budgets are constraints to be dismissed in the pursuit of greatness. (This, in my experience is where architecture education is solely aimed, which is what probably explain the second type) The second type who aspire to be the first but lack the brain power. They'll make beautiful renders and design house that the neighbours will say "wow the Jones used a flash Architect" . They spend all their time on social media promoting themselves, design roofs that will leak, bankrupt normal punters, wind up the planners, are too lazy to dig into details and outsource anything mildly technical. Copy and paste drawings from the Kingspan Rep who took them out for a round of golf Frustrate builders who insultingly don't have the ability to read their mind. Often they get fired half way through a project where they blame everyone else for the overruns and chaos other than themselves. The third type. Not an egotistic, more lightly to be in jeans and a tee shirt than a turtleneck. They generally don't need to advertise much as they have as many word of mouth clients as they can take on. They understand the planners and how to guide your project through with minimal fuss. They'll be realistic about budgets, recommend reliable builders. Importantly, they'll have that magic quality, of being able to blend the technicalities of a sound, practical house with harmony and flare that will be missed by someone of a solely more mechanical disposition. Someone who can work both sides of their brain.

Am I the only one thinking that they smoked a few rollies in the attic for a few hrs, got her to sign a form and called it a good one.

Don't think I said this. Remind me. Have a look at this recent thread. The walls were previously done with kingspan PIR and plasterboard. I very much doubt anything was done about Airtightness. Look at how damp all the structure is behind the removed boards. Similarly note the rot in the timber lintels. A house that was internally dry for at least a century suffered these kinds of problems in just a few years because of inappropriate internal insulation.

Sell the PIR again or put it in the floor. Airtight the house rigidly, (can be done room by room) Parge for the walls, tape the windows, airtight paint for joist ends and anything tricky. Ensure you return the parge to all internal walls too by at least the thickness of the wall. Build 63mm CLS studs internally independent of the wall. Fit mineral wool batts and plasterboard. Provided yiu do a good job with airtightness its's a very safe, cheap and easy install. The PIR is really not a good idea.

Picture/sketch please.

And a selection of appropriate straight sections should work. 220*90 is about the same as 160mm diameter in cross sectional area. I'd prefer soffit vents. Fewer holes in the roof the better.

https://polyroof.co.uk/system-applications/simulated-metal-finishes/ Or fake the metal roof effect with GRP.

We have no smart controls. I can boost the unit manually if we need to but TBH I never do. I will turn it up a notch if we have a party.(Depressingly rarely!)

The Makar designs have a lot going for them too. Probably more from a practicality point of view. Usually sensible simple pitched roofs with plenty of overhang. Cellulose filled wall panels. Excellent airtighess etc.

Beautiful stuff for sure. I think they do the HebHomes Designs which @Kelvin has and was happier with the overall design rather than the detail. Maybe I'm mistaken.

I would be worried about some future owner running a car in there on a cold morning to warm it up and the fumes getting drawn into the MVHR. Could a stand alone structure work? Or you could always extend the MVHR inlets out to the fresh air above the new roof .

Again I think your thinking about this in the incorrect way. Rather than "sealing" it you should think about how you allow it to "dry" Ensure the water table around the house is low by digging a french drain. If it is damp it will dry out assuming the conditions in the house are appropriate (warm/ventilated). Then you can lay your floor. Ideally something that isn't too vapour impermeable itself like cork or carpet.

Ok. You really need to think about removing the conditions which moisture accumulates and promoting it's dispersion. Sealing anything is risky, espically when you do it at both sides of an old wall so in principle would avoid this Here is where I would start. 1. Bulk water. This means french drains to lower water tables. Functioning guttering, appropriate pointing externally. Silicone brick creams. Eliminate leaking pipes etc. 2. Ventilation. Mechanical ventilation internally. A couple of dDCV fans as a minimum. These are cheap ~£70 and swap straight out for a bathroom fan. These will pull damp air out of your house and allow the structure to dry to the inside. Additionally you'll get fresher air inside. Other methods of ventilation like heat driven stack effect and manual opening of windows are typically very expensive or just don't get done. 3. Airtighess. Believe it or not almost all the moisture problems that originate in a building are from the inside out. Vapour from breathing, showering, cooking etc. When you have cracks in your structure. Gaps and cracks around fixings, joists, windows, outlets all allow this to get "blown" into the wall where it risks condensing and causing issues like structural decay and mould. 4. Insulation. In your case internal insulation which is a double edged sword. On the one hand it'll keep the internal temperature higher promoting drying towards the inside but on the other hand it'll make the actual structure colder promoting condensation on the stone wall. If you avoid rigid boards of very low permeability like PIR and make an excellent job of the airtighess you'll mitigate most of these issues. Ok my suggestions. 1. Deal with Bulk water as above. 2. Buy some greenwood cv2GIP dDCV fans. 3. Use a parge coat of sand NHL cement 3:2:1 to form an airtight layer on the stone. It can be trowelled or brushed on. Tape all windows to the parge coat with appropriate tapes. Similarly joist ends, pipe and wire penetrations. And seal to the floor and ceilings too. This is critically important to any internal insulation job. 4. Install some 63mm stud walls internally to the stone walls with 70mm insulation in between the studs. (You can vary depth depending on your circumstances. 5. Plasterboard and skim.

Any Ply is a mould magnet. Can you get up on a ladder and prod at it with the pointy end of a screwdriver or a penknife. If it's not showing any signs of rot I wouldn't be overly concerned. You could get them to clean off the mould I suppose.