GrantMcscott

Hi It is 2420 mm and the thickness of the wall is 145 mm load bearing wall

Ah ok sorry, it would be to low the bottom step of the quarter turn would be in the bathroom

So from that I do not think I am breaching Building regs with a quarter landing with 1 step up to the final landing

I thought that I had done in the previous post ? But one step to the landing

This is the only design I think works but not sure if it complies with Building regs as per your statement but not sure why and my inspector is on holiday at the min. There just is not enough depth to get 2 steps in at the top I would be way into the bathroom and not sure how I would support the stairs. The only way I can do it is with 1 step and a quarter landing. Will need to pack the stairs of the wall between 50mm to 100mm to give me the extra head room at the top due to the slope.

The wonder gives me the 2m head room at the top due to the fact the last step pushes it out away from the window. I havw tried the online line tools and quarter landings does not work due to the size it has to be winders to save space. i may be able to get 2 steps down will have a look at the sizing tomorrow as I think to the bottom of the plaster board is 2300 mm

So from the window to the landing where you see the cable it is 1630 mm

Just measured tonight and the line on the photo is 1700mm will this be an issue? the rat is ol just the last 300mm is not at 2m

I thought the landing had to be the same or greater than the width of the stairs so if I fill the bit in black I will have about a 1 metre

No I had this before and cur it out so can just add in some more floor joists and infill it. I just thought it would look strange coming to the top of the stairs and facing a wall and turning sharp left to get to the landing. Need to check the head height on the windows though just to make sure it is at 2m at the top next to the windows.

Hi the last step is above the wall. See pic attached do you think this would be better It is a bathroom below the stairs so this is not an option unfortunately as it would be to difficult and expensive . See picture attached do you think this is better I am not 100% sure what you mean the reason there is only 2 rises at the top is to avoid the wall any more then I would hit it. . Every stair designer I have went to has left a ledge at the top as this is out of normal for them so they have struggled with it. I have not managed to find anyone yet that has come up with an idea to solve the issue they keep leaving a ledge at the top which I do not want. I think it is out of the normal for them so they do not think about how they can use the additional space.

Hi Can anyone advise if the following has any issue with building regulations. All the goings will be equal and the rises, 1m wide and head clearance is fine. it is the way the top is designed with the turn in the image this is due to get it over a wall after another issue.

Hi I stripped it off and for some reason it was packed out at one end causing the issue. Trimmed it back with the multi tool and it is sorte. Glad I did strip it off as there was wool insulation behind socking wet. Panic over nothing as so much has went wrong with my build.

I was thinking about trimming back the rafter tail 30mm or so to correct it but do not know what impact that will have on the tiled roof.

It is render on the block

Hi Started putting on my capping board today and have noticed and issue which I think ios due to the roof not being put on straight. This part of the house does not have any soffits, As you can see from the photos it starts off with no soffits but at one point the gap goes up to 60mm. Any suggestions on how to fix this or if it can be fixed. I can not pack them out and put a soffit on as that would make the windows look funny.

Hi thanks for the reply. The window are vfe MK35

Hi Bricklayer is install window sills and he think that my Velux windows should have a drip sill. I have contacted Velux and looked at the instructions and it does not have anything else. I am just going to mastic the gap between window and sill Is this correct

Hi thanks for the reply currently the render has not been done and it is just exposed block

I have now inspected all windows an doors and there is no cavity trays above any of the lintels. Should I go round and remove the block and retro fit or just leave it and it should be fine? thanks

To get us wind and water tight the porch was temporary added to the house. As there was no outer block work at the time the joist hangers were hung to timber attached to the timber frame. Essentially in the 50mm cavity. Is there any issue in doing this or should I lower the lintel and attach the roof to the external leaf? thanks

Scotland East Ayrshire

Hi I am looking for precast window cills. I currently have a precast concrete window cill but the finish on it is not that good (air bubbles ect) I was then looking at precast slip cills but can not find anywhere I can buy them off the shelf 14 weeks manufacture lead time. Can anyone advise where they got their cills from

I have water ingress on a downstairs bifold door and when I inspected the weeps are there above the lintel but no dray or dpc. At the minute the water is coming in via the windows above as no sills on at present. By the way most of the house has no eves

After some water ingress due to wind sill not fitted upstairs I have noticed that there is no Cavity trays / DPC above my windows. Will this be an issue once everything is sealed up i.e. all window sills on and rendered / stone slips