GrantMcscott

Not 100% sure what you mean but if I tight fit say 50mm pir insulation into the studs and compress the frametherm would that be OK

The Architects spec say this The external walls above DPC level shall comprise amixture of types, single leaf of 100mm thk. cutstonework or rendered blockwork or timber cladding,50 mm vented cavity, TF200 Thermo BreatherMembraneor similar, 9mm sheathing ply, 140mm timber frame, 140mm fill Thermframe Roll 35, 45x35mm timber battons (service void).15mm vapour checked plasterboard. All window/door lintels toStructural Engineers design. Catnic or similar steel lintols to be used in stonework leaf.Minimum Overall U-Value –0.22 W/m²K. The SAP Certificate says exposed timber framedwalls to achieve U-value of at least0.22W/m2K using 100mm Thermawall TW55

Hi In between the studs in my timber frame I have used Thermaframe 40 is the adequate insulation? The architect specified Thermaframe 35 but i order the wrong one will this make much difference. There is no insulated plasterboard either on the walls just 15mm thick. So wall make up is Thermaframe 40 - VCL - service cavity then plasterboard Also people have questioned why it is not PIR insulation between the studs tight fitted

been using expandable foam and silver tape to tape the edges. The silver metal tape from Jewson's is not very good though and after a few day looks like it is coming off in places not sure why.

Hi I am currently insulating my vaulted celling the make up it 150mm PIR - VCL - 32.5 mm insulated plasterboard. Will I loose insulating performance if there is a air gap between the two layer of insulation thanks

forgot to say the house does not have soffits so there is over facia vents

Hi I am trying to find out if I need to leave ventilation between the roof covering which is 22mm OSB, breathable membrane, counter batten, battens then tile. The eves have been filled with Thermaframe densely packed not sure if this is ok. Currently I have put in PIR insulation and pushed it so it touches the OSB board does this matter or will I give it a 50mm gap. Also even if it has a gap will it get any Air due to the eves being filled with Thermaframe

just out of intrest has anyone used an alternative to floor screed for UFH like High Density Dry Screed Panels

Not sure what you mean u recommend cement based over liquid?

Not sure what you mean u recommend cement based over liquid?

Ok so my 75 mm is OK for sand and cement screes and id I want 25 mm more insulation and quicker drying I use the liquid screed. Is there any benifit laying the liquid screed at 75 mm?

how do you measure screed thickness is it from the insulation height to the top of the screed or from the top of the pipes to the top of the screed. At the minute I have 75 mm from insulation to top of screed. Is this to thick? thanks

Had building control out yesterday and we discussed the down pipes. He suggested putting an upstand on the roof and diverting the water away from the windows that are above the bi-fold doors so that I would not need guttering there. Thus this removes the need for the diagonal down pipe due to the bi-fold doors being below it.

Hi some parts of my timber frame are reasons 18% to 20% is it OK to insulate with Frametherm roll. I have been wind and watertight for a while and the moisture level is not moving much on my meter

@ETC kindly did these for me and they look great just need to decide what one to do

Hi Was wondering if any one could help with this issue. Hi, We have to move some windows due to an issue with tiling the roof and i am now left with a large ledge and not sure what to do with it. Also the balustrade will be in the eye line of the window. I have thought about moving the wall bellow but it will mean a lot of work as 2 wall, 2 doors and a window will need to be moved 700 mm. The stairs will be coming up where the ladder is not sure what to do about the space to the left and how to make a feature out of it and make it look naturally like it was designed to be there. I am also going to ask if the stairs can be centred on the windows but that will depend on the amount of space I have.

Yes i think the only option is to bring the down pipes inside the house. What is the minimum size of pipe I will get away with for a down pipe was thinking 50mm internal 63 mm external. The guttering runs are very short so should not need a big pipe.

Hi Been looking into this further. I have found this water dispersal system my Architect says it is rubbish but have anyone got any experience with them or should I buy a length and see what happens. My Architects solution is to add a 20mm diameter overflow pipe sticking out 250mm and the water would overflow and hit a French drain on the ground. I do not like the idea

I like the look of the copper gutter but can imagine waking up in the morning and they are gone

Hi Here is a phot of one of the elevations. It is a new build and the black line will be roughly where the gutter will be but not running past the windows. The whole roof will need to be drained by the gutter and the windows have a hidden gutter in them that drains into the main gutter. The walls will be a mix of render in bit and sections of stone.

That is the issue there is no design for it it is a miss and know the roof is on it is like a bit of Sh*t what do I do moment. I was thinking that due to the lengths of guttering being in small sections then the area of roof is very small the water is collected from. Due to this the flow rate will be greatly reduced thus I can get away with a smaller drainage pipe. I could connect a 32mm MDPE pipe to the back of the gutter and run it down the cavity or inside the house and out the bottom. This would have no joins in it and if in the house can insulate it so no noise. I could put a mesh at the top to stop it getting blocked.

I am ok with them being all in one length with no joins as I do not want something that looks like this

No it is a pitched roof. Was thinking about brining the down pipe inside and putting it in the service cavity.

Hi Is there any way you can hide down pipes? Due to the windows on my house being in the roof and the wall (see pic)it is causing the need to have lots of downpipes for the guttering. If the guttering goes past the window it will be in line with your eye. On the elevation there is actually another set of the windows so 5 in total Is there any clever solutions to solve this.

Does anyone know of a reputable company to lay UFH and then put the screed on it. Based in East Ayrshire Scotland. Also do you have your plumbing in on top of the slab for toilet and a waste pipe to the main soil stack. So it will be bellow screed and UFH and in the insulation layer as I do not want it round the walls and boxed in. thanks