GrantMcscott

Hi I have put in some of my windows with a tolerance around the frame. I have been looking on the internet but not sure how to fill this gape now. This is a timber frame house and the windows have fire stops around them. Is there a flashing kit or tape for the outside I can use Should I just use expandable foam and sealants to the breather membrane With water Ingres and air tightness what is the correct way to do this

Both are stapled flat to the building the only thing I can see it doing is the same as the building wrap. also does anyone know the chance of water Ingres and then getting through a hole in the wrap as my wrap has plenty of patch repairs. Water has to get through clad 100 mm block and then jump 50mm cavety

it is under the solplate but also stappled on top of the osb the same way the wrap is thus you can see the black at both places where the wrap is not covering it

Hi My Joiner is putting on DPC stuff at the bottom of the timber frame and where the top of the first floor meets the floor joists . Is this necessary as I have never seen it done before? See pic

Thanks for that ours are projecting quite a bit into the cavity maybe just touching the timber frame. was not sure if firestops were put against windows that they needed to be sealed by something else. It looks like screw fire stops to windows and screw to frame and put tray above nothing else needed

Hi Does anyone know of a good guide on the correct way to install a window (mine are ali clad) into a timber frame house. What flashing are needed ect and how to make sure it is water tight as they will be installed into the cavity barrier. Also install some Velux VFE windows (the vertical ones) should they have cavity barriers around them and also how do I seal them as there is a 10 mm gap around them thanks

Well frame is coming on and roof half done but starting to really worry about the rain effected OSB and frame. The frame has cracked in a few places and the OSB eages are very wet. This is due to water penetrating it from inside to out. It has been non stop rain here for weeks with minimal dry days since January when we started

Yes will be block outer leaf on timber frame. I have to tape the membrane so will do it when I tape it

Just found out that the staples used for the Breathable Membrane are steel and not galvanized or stainless steel. The building has been out in the rain for 7 months and we may get moisture in the cavity. Should I be worried that the Breathable Membrane may fall off one day and we get damp in the building. Thanks

Cheers for that. that is a thought

So full wall 100 mm block then bottom half 100 mm stone so the bottom half will be 200 mm thick then stop half will be 100 mm block + render so there will be a lip

Not sure I understand as if I set the block in 25mm it would be in half of the cavety

Hi My outside wall are going to be 100 mm block then 100 mm stonework tied into the block approximately half way up the building then it will change to white render. Is there any way to stop a lip where the block meets the render as the render will be thinner than the stone thanks

Was not worried about cold bridge. It was more that the cladding was not attached to block work and there was a chance vermin could run up It or damp. The dpc will be about in places 1 metre above ground due to ground level . Just thought it should have brick or block up to the bottom of it and cavity.

Hi, I am cladding part of my timber frame house, the timber clad will stop at DPC 200mm above the ground. Can any one advise on this section of the house if I need a cavity below the DPC or is it OK for the inner block holding the frame being rendered and painted or will in need to put a few courses of thin brick to the ground? thanks

There is a lot if water in the ground but we are draining it

It is below ground in concrete with nothing on it

It is inside the fabric was just worried about water from the ground seeping through the concrete . It is encased in at least 200 mm of concrete all round most probably more

Yes my engineering spec said that it had to be painted with bitumen but they did not bother and encased raw steel in concrete.

Hi, I have just found out that the steel work that was fixed to the foundation was also not painted so it was raw steel and then encased in concrete. Should I be concerned or is this OK as it is the main support for the house?

Just one other question Jewson receipts all have watermark on them saying COPY. HMRC states original will they reject them for this as there is a few thousand £s of VAT on them?

cheers have sent off for a quote

Hi I have been looking at a few instructions guides on Kwik stage scaffolding as will look to buy it. I am just wondering how you work out what is needed or is there a tool do work it out. looking to Scaffold the 2 cable ends 5 metres and the front of the house 18.5 metres. Height 4 metres Not 100% sure I know what I need Understand I need 60 standard and the jacks x amount Ledger x amount Transoms Any advise appreciated

Currently I have been quoted 12k to connect to the grid for power. Would this money be better spent in PV panels and a turbine with batteries? Roof will go on in about a month so need to make a decision if I am going to have PV panels as I would like them to be in-line with the tiles.

We have started constructing our house and the down floor is nearly complete. The build is getting hampered by the bad weather rain and wind. Will the OSB board be ok as we will not be wind and water tight for a couple of months. How much water can it take. The wrap at the minute does not cover the wastes of the external OSB as it is folded back. Thanks