GrantMcscott

I have tried taping and filling all the holes but it must be burst in other places that I can not find. Also the joiners nailed through it when creating the service void. So it will be an imposible task without ripping all the plasterboard off and taking out internal walls which is not going to happen. So I need to do the best I can with what I have.

Hi Electritian has put all the cables in the loft and drilled through the pir insulation and burst the air barrier. Have pur my hand in the ceiling service cavity and air is extremely blowing through it. Tried sealing up all the holes and filling but still an issue. Very windy outside. I was thinking about putting 200mm of wool in the loft over the PIR will this stop the drafts coming from the loft?

No, Still not fixed. Our house is in a valley and when the wind is above 20Mph the seals do not hold on the Velux windows and the wind howels in Going to email Velux today.

No they did not fit it. The installers that did it I am not in touch with anymore so will get another company to do it

got a reply from Express and they have sted it is either the jams (these look ok) that need adjusting or the door toed and healed to correct the issue

I have contacted Express bifold who I bought them from to see what they say but they after sales is poor.

Yes that is the door but have not found instructions for adjustment

Idid adjust the locking to pull the door in but it does not pull it in enough. My doors are SCHUCO and struggling to find any good documentation on it for adjustment

Hi had another look at the door tonight and it does not look like an issue with the gasket. It looks like the door is not shutting tight enough at the top. You can push the top of the door in an out. Is there any adjustment to bring the top of he door in to close the gap between the frame and top of door? Not sure if you can see it from this pic

Contacted them but there after care is not very good

so should i just go and but some storm guard and stick it on?

Hi I have 1 bi-fold door where the top of the door is not touching the seal by 2 to 3mm so it is not air tight and letting in a draft. I have 2 more of these doors and the seals and the instalation look the same. From the inside the top of the door is not flush with the frame and can come in to close the gap. Not sure how to adjust the door to achive this or even if it can be done.

Hi We have Velux VFE Windows see pick. On the Windiest part of the house the gasket that seals the Windows let’s quit a big draft in at the corners. Wondering if if anyone else has had this issue with Velux and what they did about it. Going to to contact them on Monday as had to put scarfs on the window sills to stop drafts

The windows are sitting mostly in the 50mm cavity so there is hardly anything for the compriband to stick to. I was looking for a tape to tape the window to the timber frame

I still have some windows on one side of the house that needs timber clad that has not been done yet. The windows have been sealed with expanding foam but what tape would you use to seal them to the building before clading? Also no rendering has been done yet so is there anything I can do to make them more air tight before the building is finished?

Slab with 150mm PIR then 40mm PIR covering the joints then UFH pipes and then 68mm screed. no logs of indoor temp

The windows were sealead with expandable foam all around where possible as for eample the one in the utility is siting on the frame so hard to get a seal to the bottom. so it has a draught that needs to be fixed

Hi the house is about 270m2 to 300m2 and most of it open planned downstairs. What should a typical heating regime be?

Yes it where you say it is to late now as it is all plasterboarded and upstairs floor is down. It is not poor design it is a design that has not been followed and implimented. I think the best I can get is sealing the skirtingboards and windows at best

I have not done it to Passiv standard but have exceeded building regs standards.

I am not looking for a Passiv house just a house that is comfrable and not extremly cold to live in. I currently can not use the master bedroom as it is to cold but it is a big room with lots of glass. I know there is an issue with the air barrier as the cowboy builder did not fit it in the joist zone but at the time it was pointed out there was nothing I could do about it. So there is a barrier down stairs and one upstairs and it was all fitted after the upstsirs floor and internal walls were put in. So the top an bottom of it is not sealed as there is nothing to seal it to. The heating is Warmflow AS03-R32 downstairs there is UFH with 7 zones and 1 zone upstairs the controls are Emmeti TR3100. Down stairs are all set to 20 oC from 06.30 to 20.30 and then they go down to 18oC. Wood burning stove is on all day from about 07.00 to 22.30 and all doors are open down stairs and this stops UFH coming on in other rooms as the are warm enough with weasther above 0oC. Master bedroon is to cold to use need to work out why and upstairs it feels drafty.

All the pir was taped to make sure no air. Put could be poorly fitted air barrier

Timber frame with 140 frametherme 40. Then air barrier then 25 mm pir. 40mm cavity then 15mm plasterboard

I got told it would be more expensive but did not think it would be 5hat much would be cheaper with oil

our electricity bill last week was £200 so need to address this and find out where we are loosing heat