Construction Channel

looks fine to me, 200mm is acceptable, you could rip 100mm off the first run to make the last board a bit wider but i wouldn't say its necessary, its when you end up with a little 60mm bit that you wish you had started differently

I'm with dave cut it back so the tongue lands on a joist. Also measure the width of the room before you start to make sure you don't end up with a silly rip when you get to the other side We don't generally bother with noggins on lose ends but if you wanted to I would put it in the middle of the board

Ideally those spax twin threaded ones mentioned in a previous thread but realistically any will do. I only used those special ones because I got given them free

One of my favourite jobs when it's going well. I even used up the scraps to gain some brownie points when I was doing my step flashings.

I do have 3 rails for when I was cutting up the tree. But usually I just use one. Even on a long rip I just move the rail along

Exactly. It fits on my cordless in seconds. Mark both sides of the board (no messing about with offsets) put the rail on, makita rail in my case. No need to clamp it usually and then cut. Edit: I do also have an adaptor for my big saw as well. Just make sure you get the right one for your model of saw

Top and bottom plate for me. But technically sole plate is correct

I used to use clamps and a straight edge but once you start using a rail there's no going back really

Makita Guide Rail Adapter B – 195838 7 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00DF6TUB6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_KAyCCb98TND8E Well worth the money. Only time I actually use the real plunge saw is for cutting out sinks

But if I put it higher it won't catch both boards (assuming I want to lay them landscape). Where you put the socket is personal preference. In theory you could put them anywhere below 1200

I can't say they really bother me. I find it more entertaining to watch our electricians moan... EVERY TIME ?. I have a reason to put the noggin that height. He just wants to put his switch there.

You could put them at 1150 ?

It's not funny at all. It's bloody infuriating. Eg I made my timber frame 16" center so it worked for the osb. When I come to plasterboard there will be a lot of swearing/cutting

Not at all. But that just means you move the accurate stud 1200 along the wall. Edit: one small issue is it tends to leave light switches on the joint but electricians moan anyway so hey ho

Re reading your first post I suspect we use the phrase centres because apart from the first gap. That is what we are trying to achieve, x amount between center lines. If we used another phrase like spacing for example we would end up with a lot of walls that don't work boards at all.

Also for when you publish your illustrated book it's stud c that will be at 1200 not stud d ?

They don't really but you may as well make as many gaps the same size as possible so it's easier for cutting noggins

Because the board won't be long enough. You would need it to be 1222 to reach the wall. Just wait until you get to a corner. (make sure you mark centers from the external side ?)

Oh the classic. I always measure 422 off the wall and put the cros on the wall side and carry on 822, 1222...... The classic mistake is they will leave the 1200 stud so the board finishes on the edge of the stud. Luckily you haven't made this mistake but I have had to adjust a lot of apprentices studwork from this old classic The first noggin is always short otherwise you get a 1/2" gap in the plasterboard.

Tape measure for me too. Especially if you intend to check it afterwards. I bought a laser measure a while back and have found it very useful as an emergency battery store.

You could buy 3 fake ones with change for that. Tbh the fakes can be hit or miss but I only buy them and have never had one blow up. Iv had a couple have the live come unsoldered but once re soldered have lasted as long as a real one. https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B07HJT9HFR/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_awdb_t1_QrxBCbT4BQ62T

I would definitely buy it again. But it depends on your work. I am a carpenter for work so it's very easy for me to just get cordless stuff out of the van. Move from room to room without the need for leads. If I was dedicated to only one site corded would be the obvious option. Like I said it does eat through battery's quite quick hence why I have so many

Try the cordless planer. That eats batteries for breakfast. Very impressive tool but don't take too much in one hit

One of my favourite add ons. Makita Guide Rail Adapter B – 195838 7 https://www.amazon.co.uk/dp/B00DF6TUB6/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_wSvBCb3ZRWPTK

Our tackers also use senco which I also hear very good reviews about. I use the makita which I get on fine with as long as you un jam it on the first screw. It's when people keep ramming it into the wall when it's jammed where the real problems start