Vijay

perfect

more than happy to do that Anyone know if fence paint be ok for the face of ply?

osb just swells when wet though?? Already bought the ply now and had it cut down

temporary, it's for the windows and doors shuttering on my ICF build, but I'm hoping to just re-use a lot a of it for the upstairs windows. This stuff definitely doesn't like water, started to laminate when a slight bit of rain got on the ends. Happy to use water seal and a bitumen paint on the edges if that works but would fence paint work on the faces of the ply instead of water seal, as I have some already?

Morning I'm sure there was a post about waterproofing normal ply but I've searched and can't find it. Is there any suitable way of waterproofing normal shuttering ply so it can be used outside without coming apart? Cheers Vijay

Or use a trigger spray bottle instead of cans??

My garage is going to be my workshop too and for me it's a no brainer to put in UFH. I want to be able to go in there and work without thinking of having to preheat the space. It's well insulated so I'm hoping heating requirements will be minimal.

Morning, Got a slight issue I'm trying to iron out before possibly running it past BC. A job coming up shortly is the radon barrier/DPM which I intend on doing in two parts. The first part is a skirt on the walls where I attach the second part later, across the floor and taped to the skirt (as I need a working floor). The problem I'm trying to figure out is the best way to do the skirt. I have attached the Polarwall detail which shows the membrane going through the ICF and into the concrete core. Apparently some BC want to see a join from the radon barrier to the DPC (which in my case is the waterproofed concrete). My question is would that be totally necessary as it would be far easier to fix it to the inner skin of the ICF (or at least folded over the top of an ICF course). The main issue is getting the membrane around the "H" rails and this would be a complete nightmare in corners. I've called Visqueen and will be emailing them the details this weekend to get their point of view too. My floor build up is: 75mm screed 500 gauge vapour barrier 75mm Celotex FF4000 150mm Celotex XR4000 1200 gauge visqueen radon barrier/dpm on blinding sand On B&B floor My other question is what's the purpose of the vapour barrier, is it to stop any reaction/flow through the insulation from the screed? Vijay Polarwall Radon.pdf

How about that for forum love - brilliant!!

Just get a self priming pump and some hose then, can't see you needing more than that But maybe consider getting an IBC if you have space as your buffer tank?

Looks nice and neat

I'm not gonna loose any sleep over it cos it's done lol But got loads more to do so will try what you've suggested

Really struggled with getting the mix down the gaps today, had to get the mix incredibly wet and then it just about went down. I'm certain in places it wouldn't have filled the gaps

I saw a really fussy brickie using a piece of brick to rub off any bits of mortar on his laid bricks - worked a treat

exactly what I fitted into my Mums kitchen

Rickmansworth isn't far from me so can go see them if needed

Yes boss

Didn't mean the full size ones lol I should have been clearer, meant the small handheld ones Like this https://www.google.co.uk/imgres?imgurl=https%3A%2F%2Fae01.alicdn.com%2Fkf%2FHTB10MMHKVXXXXXkXpXXq6xXFXXXo%2F220V-250W-Hand-held-Cement-Vibrating-Troweling-Concrete-Vibrator-Brand-new-RH.jpg_640x640.jpg&imgrefurl=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.aliexpress.com%2Fitem%2FNew-220V-250W-Hand-held-Cement-Vibrating-Troweling-Concrete-Vibrator%2F32700966837.html&docid=-kg2IgvxLMvqUM&tbnid=tbxtT2DoAYO4mM%3A&vet=10ahUKEwjzs4_vz7TbAhVRdcAKHblMCeYQMwh9KAUwBQ..i&w=640&h=594&bih=984&biw=1920&q=hand hald concrete vibrator&ved=0ahUKEwjzs4_vz7TbAhVRdcAKHblMCeYQMwh9KAUwBQ&iact=mrc&uact=8

Ever seen the film Multiplicity???? lol Actually got a mate helping me for 2 days next week so will get him on the mixer. Otherwise I'll just stick the radio on, zone out and just crack on with it

It's 176m2 but I will go over it as many times as it needs to fill up the gaps Maybe a vibrating plate would help speed things up???

Been on site for over a year and only bother with heating food if a mate has come and helped me. Otherwise a flask of boiling water for my tea and just bring lunch. Or is it for trades?

Nick you've made me cry at the thought of going over it twice!! lol Definitely will grout it now then What sort of consistency should the mix be?

Another thing to consider is how portable you need it to be? I have one of the Aldi ones mentioned and it's been a little temperamental at times (saying oil is low and cutting out) but it has always kept going. It's a suitcase type one so weighs about 20KG. If you want a site genny, Costco have a Champion one for less than £200 which is 240 and 110v

Cheers guys. Crap has already got into places from trees and walking over it (damn clay on boots). I'll jetwash it as I go (right before I grout)

Finally got most of the blocks in, just got all the cuts to do. I was going to grout it straight after but a builder friend said not to until I'm water tight, as the floor will pool rain water. It's something I never thought of and the reality is my house will not be watertight this year, so more than liked no roof through winter So grout or not grout?