LA3222

I like how it says 'chainsaw' on it....clearly the manufacturer knows that no sane person would assume that is a chainsaw, hence the reminder!

Looks good bud, just the steel and UFH to put in now? Big step forward though, when do plan to get the concrete in?

Probably wondering what's hidden behind that wall which requires 50 million screws to never see the light of day again...

Must have been rendered speechless by your magnificent efforts....it will likely take him days to recover?

@pocster what did the plasterer say after casting eyes over your 'eccentric' boarding efforts?

Normal???

I'm doing bits and bobs of various things at the minute one of which is to run all the pipes in the next couple of days. I'm doing manifold in plant room, one set for cold, one set for hot, one set for hot return. Using 15mm Hep for the big hots/colds like shower bath sink, 10mm for all other hots/cold. I'm insulating everything, hot and cold. Bought a load of armaflex in 35m coils. I'll just have to slip it over the pipes as I go - won't be the worst job I've done. 22mm copper to the manifolds, plastic out. Just running pipes for now so sparky can then first fix. I've got a floor deck to lay over my first floor ufh then I'll be on the plumbing again. 300l UVC and ASHP should be here by end of April at latest.

I am part way through installing my first floor ufh now @Colin Shaw. I put 32mm battens along the joists and then a sand/cement (8:1) dry mix down. I mixed the pug screed in an electric mixer and it mixed fine. The floor is now rock solid, harder than I thought it would be with a weak mix. Waiting for the floor to dry out enough before I put 22mm norboard floor deck over the top. Loads of people on here will say you probably won't need it. I get that, I don't anticipate mine being on most of the year, but for the colder days it's there if I need it. What I did do though was put all of the upstairs bathrooms/ensuites on their own loops and I have put floor probes in too. I intend to set these off the floor temp rather than air so that the tiled floors will all be warm and not feel cold when walking bare foot.

As you have pointed out, you live on site a few metres away from the house. Why does the door need to be lockable? If its to 'secure' the house then the whole thing isn't up to the job and you need a proper cheapo door. If the door is just to keep things sealed and weatherproof there is no need for the lock?

I have gone through many tyre kickers during my build. I work under the premise that if trades cba with getting in touch with me then I cba with giving them my money. People are busy so I tend to message them on WhatsApp, I then give them a reasonable time to respond, no response = move on. If they are like this before they have your cash in their pocket what will they be like when they do have it?

Holy thread resurrection batman! Quick one bud, or for anyone else in the know whom has an opinion: I have just finished laying the pug screed for my 1st floor UFH so the floor make-up is currently - - joists (400 centres) - 22mm caberdeck - 35mm pug screed - ? I am due to lay the next layer, 22mm caberdeck on top but I'm now pondering the ramifications for later on when I come to tile the bathrooms. With this 22mm/35mm/22mm sandwich can I tile straight onto the top layer of OSB provided dittra matting goes down first and flexible adhesives are used as per the quote? So my floor make-up would be: - joists (400 centres) - 22mm caberdeck - 35mm pug screed - 22mm caberdeck - dittra decoupling layer - tiles This is one of those, 'I hadn't considered the knock on effects for later jobs' situations! Ta

Stop messing around with lawyers and get the gardener to dig a hole. Job done. You know the answer to your question ref proximity then. Also, I want to see this damn pipe now...it is becoming infamous. Lots of pics please?

True that, you jave shown me the light, amen, hallelujah. You've literally saved hours of my life with those photos - much obliged?

Difference is that @Onoff scews his lines using a lazer, your gun must literally be of the shotgun kind judging by your screw 'groupings' ??

This looks rough as arseholes? Glad you put this pictures up, I know now what I can get away with. Never having plasterboard before I thought it might need to be as neat as possible, good to know that all sins can be sorted by the plasterer ?

Ex VAT, dunno what the transmitter bit is - who is this with?

Just clicked apply for one on their online portal at Midsummer Wholesale and it worked ok?‍♂️

Just checked, I paid £4870 for the 8.5kW Ecodan ASHP & 300l UVC. So in 5yrs that's a £700 increase, 3% a year isn't too onerous.

If you go for an alternate cylinder you will have to integrate the controller into the setup yourself or the trade will have to do it. How much will a trade charge for that? The manuals are hefty reads so it won't be a quick job, I'd hazard any savings would be lost on a tradesman day rate to set it all up. If you're doing it yourself it is an epic task to get to grips with and you'll lose a fair few days which could be better spent elsewhere? It may be a false economy to go for a non branded cylinder?

You need a Rolec Tre consumer unit or something similar: https://www.fastlec.co.uk/rolec-tre3-three-way-caravan-hook-up-consumer-unit-fuseboard-with-sockets

Are you getting a preplumbed cylinder? I find that the Ecodan one comes with the controller attached to the cylinder with all the wiring pretty much pre done which I like as it cuts down on the amount of thinking I have to do myself?‍♂️ Not sure if this is the case with the Panasonic types?

The Ecodan does do cooling, its in the dip switches.

Greenmoose Windows are who I used. They don't do 'supply and fit' as such, they do have a window fitter that they use though and they did all the organising in that regard. I just had to pay them both separately.

Yes indeed? Nah, I definitely meant a shit load?? You have, 'more', 'many', 'lots' and then there is 'shit loads'...its alot??

Would the best starting point not be to smash a load of space floor screws in at 100 or 150 centres all along the joists? Cheaper and less invasive than ripping the floor up. If that doesn't work then escalate the job. Those screws are very good at pulling things tight, a shit load of them should do the trick. If your floor deck has been glued down it is going to be one hell of a job to get it up. What state will the top of the joists be in once it has been ripped up?