LA3222

@SuperJohnG I did look at Clays but went with Glosford in the end. There are loads of SIP suppliers out there!

Glosford

I made all my penetrations after brick/block was up so did nothing to the external membrane. Internally I just used some orcon f and some tescon vana - no gaskets or owt like that. We got 0.2ACH on the test we had done?‍♂️

AIUI 100m is the ballpark max. You may have to split it into 3 loops. My bedroom is on 3 loops, not a drama, all three can be treated as 1 zone?‍♂️

I have a similar size build, high insulation levels, 0.2ACH and have bought a 8.5kW Ecodan with a 300l pre plumbed cylinder.

16k and 18kW, jeez that is a hell of a price tag and a huge heat pump. If you want to size your pump the easiest way is to use the heat loss calculator. You know this. You've been knocking around on this forum since day dot so all the discussions r.e. heat loss, ASHP sizing, cooling mode via the slab etc have all been covered at great length whilst you've been here. You're not new to self build either, so you know that RHI is crap if your house is built to a high spec. Surely you are building to a high spec so why bother with RHI?

The ends are the only bit that are the issue to go through the joist, but you still have to pull 80m of pipe through the first end, maybe 70m of pipe through the next, 60m through the next and so on. Do that for 8 rooms upstairs and it becomes a mammoth task. You can't notch pozi joists. With the best will in the world its not the done thing.

I'm afraid to say you have no hope of threading UFH pipe through pozi joists. If you had a small ensuite or summat to do then yeah, at a push. If you have loops 80 to 100m to do there's no hope as you have to keep pulling the entire length through the Web each time. That's a recipie for hating life. I'd lay it over the top. That's what I did tbh, counter battened the floor deck by 32mm, put the pipes down then threw a pug mix over it all. The only person I know on here that went through pozi joists is @ProDave and he did it for small rooms - he will tell you it was a ball ache!

Just push that bad boy in and it will stay. I oversized my cuts slightly by 20mm and then pushed it in. In the metal webs I cut strips the width of the the pozi and threaded it through. Shite job though, even using the knauf stuff I was still itching like a mofo at the end of each day doing it. Horrible.

Looking at this pic, I think the tiles should be butted tight to that upstand. They aren't supposed to go over the upstand but they should be tight up to it and then the foam expands to take the profile of the tile and stop rain going through the gap between tile and flashing. The flashing kit used is correct.

I emailed Velux ages ago when I was coming up to do my Velux and they sent me this. Installation guide for Sandtoft 2020 with EDW.pdf

The velux looks good to me, Mike may be correct in that the tiles should lap the flashing more - I'd have to check mine. The flashing is correct for that pitch. The lead looks like it was hammered against pebble dash which explains the wrinkles. Only thing that looks sub par is the dry Verge. A mortar bedded Verge would be better.

I have Rationel. I wouldn't disagree that internorm are good, pricey though. I would dispute Velfac and Nordan as being close though. I had quotes from all of them, Velfac was the cheapest and a horrible window. I Whittled my list to Nordan and Rationel - both very similar in price and performance. I went with Rationel as the window looks nicer than the Ecodan one. Personal preference. I have no bad things to say about my Rationel windows. I went with alu clad, timber frame, 3g, white inside and a grey/green outside.

I have a shared driveway. My plot was the garden of next door. It's fairly straightforward, just get in deeds that you have a right of access for yourself and anyone else who needs to be at the property aswell as access for services under it. All the other stuff such as repair etc is shared. This stuff ain't rocket science. There is nothing to say you won't have an arsehole neighbour at some point creating difficulties, that's just one of those things you deal with should the situation ever arise. Nonpoint worrying about what ifs....get all the relevant access agreed and then crack on.

Buy a pre plumbed cylinder.and most of the work is done for you!

I went for water based ufh in a pug screed across the entire first floor for a couple of reasons: - 5T of sand cement will kill alot of sound and the floor is rock solid. - can pump cool water in cooling mode which means the effective floor area for sucking heat out has doubled.

Caveat preemptor - @nod is unique in achieving such low figures. Being in the trade, owning your own business and doing nearly everything yourself puts you in a unique position. I wish people would add context when posting figures on here. The unwitting, lay person will see such posts and potentially misjudge costings for their own potential build. There are very few who achieve figures of £1000/m2 and below. Very few. I would suggest that the average tends to sit between £1300 - £1800 per m2 and that is heavily dependent upon standard of finish and the amount of work you take on yourself. You will also find that people on here report their figures very differently, some may include everything such as legal costs, landscaping etc. etc., whilst others will not. Take the figures you see on here with a healthy dose of salt and question what they have included, else you may gain a false impression. The number I mention above is pre Covid madness, God only knows what the average is now. I daresay it is a fair chunk more.

I may have gone OTT with munsen rings! The pipework you see is on the wall in the plantroom, I have run all my plumbing throughout the house in hep and clipped with plastic clips. The only copper in in the plant room. The manifolds are all in and OK. The butchered pipework you see was the temp stuff for the willis to get the UFH temporarily jacked up and to pressurise the entire system - be a while before I plan to get around to connecting the ASHP. Those dodgy bits will all come off once the ASHP is in and I add the softener in too. Was a case of haste and impatience - works, looks honking though!!

Yup, confirms the niggling suspicion I had that maybe my bends were not quite up to standard? I see lots of lines on yours - markers to indicate where to bend etc? Yep, I definitely didn't do that. Decided to channel my inner Pocster and free wheel it, the good old Mk 1. eyeball was my weapon of choice when it came to measuring - the results are.exactly what you'd expect?

? guide was in. My problem was I knew where I wanted the bend to happen but didn't give too much thought as to how to work out it occurred where I wanted it. Lots of bending, straightening, bending and frustration then hey presto, I'm left with that abomination to the plumbing trade?

I got one of those irwin pipe benders - I still managed to butcher it?

May aswell have been? I've got a pipe bender but didn't put much effort into learning how to get the bend to happen at the right place on the pipe - led to that mess. Actually watched a YouTube video last night - need to put my new found knowledge to use and see what happens, can't be any worse?‍♂️

Oh how I laughed at @pocster and his shotgun plasterboarding. Well, I will confess my sins - you ain't seen nothing until you have seen my pipe bending skills. I am open minded about taking on apprentices so if there are any budding padawans out there holla at me and I may share my secrets? (Caveat pre-emptor - thos is temporary just to jack up the UFH, it will be replaced?)

He said they were talking shite as the kit is all the same!

True that. Your setup is more spacious than mine so probably a bit more tolerable. Dont get me wrong, van life hasn't been a hardship, just ready to be out of it now?‍♂️ The summer heat doesn't help, winter is far easier to manage.