Nickfromwales

Make the boiler feed a 16amp x 2.5mm2 radial and fuse down at the termination point. 6a is too close to the wind imo, with due consideration being given to future proofing. Pennies difference so better to do now.

Stick them on gumtree. . If they've helped you then pass the good luck on. Maybe to another self-builder who needs the lifeline .

Nope. It was 3 for a fiver . I live in the posh part

Last time I saw that written down it was in a phone box

I would have a couple of big signs saying "Smile, your on camera 24hr remote monitoring of this site in progress". A couple of very bright led security lights wouldn't hurt. More disco, less intruders .

Make sure you have sufficient airflow into the cistern to release the water during the flush. Most cisterns aren't airtight on purpose, as whatever volume shoots down the flush pipe must be able to flow ( with near zero resistance ) into the cistern simultaneously or you'll get a slow and useless flush with reduced velocity. I went to a student let once where they were messing with the toilet for whatever reason. I decided to put a small bead of silicone around where the lid sat and bonded it on. A couple of hours later I get a phone call saying the toilet won't flush. Turns out it would flush but the water was slowed down by the vacuum now created in the cistern. Cleared the silicone away from the rear half and it was sorted. @JSHarris I assume ethe mvhr / extract would cope with that issue? Or did you just not go mad on sealing up the cistern?

?

Clear CT1 for that. White silicone will tear and come away if there any movement whatsoever. DONT USE WHITE CT1! It will go custard yellow If you want a cosmetic ( coloured ) finish simply tool / baby wipe + MultiSolve spray the excess clear away and allow to cure, THEN top coat with a silicone. You simply peel that off every time it gets grotty and the CT1 stays mint for life underneath.

Plus it doesn't stink of burnt oil Was this a non-inverter ASHP being used on a 'high energy' property ? E.g. It was going flat out a lot of the time?

Putting a vacuum anywhere on the cistern will draw air back up the flush pipe. Does the cistern have a knock out anywhere to facilitate a connection? I assume you'd need to look where the newer type have this connection and check to see if you can replicate it. Not seen one myself afaik.

Extraction at the machine would be better imho. The dust going into the door and hinges / locking mechanisms / seals etc would be near impossible to get off / out. @Stones, can you remove the door from its hinges to do this, and mask the hell out of the frame ?

I can't see any merit in buying too small a cistern as they're almost all dual flush nowadays anyhoo. 3 / 6 flushed by pressing the small or large part of the button . With regards to pan volume I doubt if that's a rule anymore ( and the first time I've ever heard that TBH ) because all modern cisterns have internal overflows so the flush could be going full whack all day and night until resolved. I woujd think the volume suggested is an European initiative for reducing water consumption and nothing else. As @ProDave says, it'll never wash the bathroom floor by 'over-flushing' as the flush doesn't come out in one go, it gets released over the space of a couple of seconds. Long enough for the stagnant water / contents of the pan to get moving and after that it could continue flushing for the next hour without issue. The extra 1.5 l of water won't make an ounce of difference to the pan, but you'll soon miss it when you need to shift the aftermath of a dodgy chicken madras. As stated, just dial back the bigger cistern if you want to save water, but 1.5 l isn't going to make you lose sleep, but waiting / flushing twice will.

+1 to the chaser. Do lots of passes and chip out accordingly. Hire / borrow an industrial Hoover and do it dry, or, if wetting the cut, make 100% sure you have a wet vac to suck the mud out as you go along. Won't be long before your bogged in otherwise

Hi and welcome No need for any other access ( as long as you've tested the cold mains supply for leaks for 48 hrs prior to 'boxing in' ). These type of units are specifically designed to allow full service and parts replacement through the front fluh-plate opening . Enjoy!

? Throw them out, maybe?

✌️️ I sold mine on eBay a couple of years back for no reason whatsoever other than I had just bought the 2014 twin pack ( with the less than impressive 2-speed ) and wanted to put the money back in the pot rather than own 2 combi drills. WHAT A BAD MOVE Ive been scouring the usual places for one ever since, and then my sparky chirps up that he doesn't want his anymore and did I want it for £20. SOLD! ? ( so basically, in answer to your question ) NO CHANCE ?

Shall I change the title of the thread to "how cheap a drill can I buy?"

Sweet.

I tried the auger bits with sds but bloody clutch kicks in. My old 3-speed makita 18v sends them through like a knife through butter. I have considers trying these but just worried about how much harm I can do to myself with it.

3 for a £1 for you matey. Bulk saver discount. BACK TO DOORS AND FLOORS NOW PLEASE !

Buy one of these and stick it in your sds drill which you already own

Well you missed my one Can't get the staff ( to type clearly ) @Ferdinand tgis should have read This Consider yourself enriched to the max.

I cut a recess into RC35 once for a wetroom former. Anyone who says that is easy wants shooting, it was two of us for a day for a 1400x900 former and sunken waste pipes. Not a pleasant task. This does sound like an installer error, but the 'blame game' would be very tricky to start playing at this late stage. Rather than the blame approach, I'd choose be proactive in arriving at a mutual and suitable resolve, so the job gets finished as well as it's been done to date. I'd only allow that door to be moved if I was there from start to finish eye-balling every single part of the process.

Got the first one to work now. ta.

I can't get that link to work. Just me?