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Nickfromwales

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Everything posted by Nickfromwales

  1. Nickfromwales
    Nowt nasty about that
  2. Nickfromwales
    Thats the current job. Former is 1200 long and the Hans Grohe iBox is the circle so that's where I've talked them into having the valve. They wanted it further out but I argued the point .
  3. Nickfromwales
    They look like they're all 100mm nominal vs 150mm with insulation to me. Strange that the inlet and outlet aren't 150/200mm eg upsized. The junctions should have been insulated and it looks like the branches tee off from the first runs, not good. Probably either not balanced or will be difficult to do so whilst keeping the noise levels down.
  4. Nickfromwales
    I thought you'd say that TBH. It is a load of extra work. Tbh, a low level tray will look super-smart going the full width of the room, and swmbo canbhave the tap anywhere over the tray so winner winner. Set the tray on the deck, [ and for the rest of the room ] lay 12mm ply and then tiles and adhesive so very little of the tray is left proud. ?
  5. Nickfromwales
    Hi tom and welcome. A lot of guys on here will be along shortly, but please hold off doing anything until you had some replies. The flexi ducting is extremely popular here and by no means a bad / incorrect product. . 100mm is also quite big so no problems there TBH. A camera survey of all the duct runs would be where I'd first spend money to ensure no kinks or flat spots. The company you've had come out and condemn it sound like they know very little about this system TBH. Hang around and we'll steer you in the right direction. ?
  6. Nickfromwales
    These were JJI's which I had to beef up. The webs got fully loaded with 22mm plywood, glued and screwed, then 18mm webs added top to toe, glued and screwed again. Bath going in here was 90kg empty so the flimsy joists weren't enough on their own imo so Capt OCD went to town. (x) mm ply goes under the former, equivelant size goes on top of P5 later. Then (x) mm ply goes all over the P5 to bring it back to one flush floor Or as @ProDave reminded me, do away with the ply, glue and screw the ? out of the P5 and use the Impey membrane which both bonds and decouples.
  7. Nickfromwales
    Not if it's a silicone Silicone won't stick to wet or even damp grout. It may last the day but it won't last long after. If using a non-silicone such as CT1 then if SPOTLESSLY clean and grout residue free you could seal the same day but not directly after.
  8. Nickfromwales
    @Crofter has a suspended floor over Mother Earth edit : Rob, is there insulation and an osb 'underbelly'?
  9. Nickfromwales
    Ring them ?
  10. Nickfromwales
    Half the money
  11. Nickfromwales
    Have you looked at these? Complete kit here
  12. Nickfromwales
    Tidy. I'll top it up with the ready brek in the morning. ? ✌️️
  13. Nickfromwales
    Isn't this only ever going to be an issue if there's a gap between the pipe and the concrete where the pipe is free to move in ? I've dug pipes out of rebar bound concrete before, and there is zero gap for movement or expansion afaics . Good praxtice would surely see folk at least trying tying the pipes on as per the green arrangement anyway though ? Makes sense to me and no extra cost / time etc.
  14. Nickfromwales
    If your in the shower and dripping wet then you go to change from rose to handset then water will drip onto the floor. I always promote that to be so it lands on the fall of the wet area so it's naturally draining away, rather than pooling on a flat section of the tiled floor where it sits until you towel it off.
  15. Nickfromwales
    Don't you mean tap?
  16. Nickfromwales
    Just had this discussion on my current install. The idea of placing the shower valve outside of the wet tray area was a bad idea imo, so they agreed to move it. How big is the tray ? Does the fall stop at the glass end?
  17. Nickfromwales
    That's why I had to put it where I did ( scroll back to see where ). That 22mm reduced to 15 to pick up the basin, then the pipes I brought up do the shower and the bath. Basically anything that draws hot will trigger the demister and it will stay on for about 45 mins after hot was drawn last. I drew hot through with the multimeter connected until the reading bottomed out at around 4.5k then timed it cooling back to ~8.5k, which took nearly an hour. Wrapped it all in rockwool to keep the residual heat there as long as possible to save having to use an overrun timer. Should be sufficient but the timer can be bolted on later if required. NOTE: The customer refuses to have a fan, and I've fitted a bigger window with huge trickle vent which they basically never shut fully ( left on night latch minimum ). That's why the demister and how it operates is so critical. .
  18. Nickfromwales

    UFH

    Nickfromwales replied to nod's topic in Underfloor Heating

    If you want some heat, buy a Willis heater and link it up to the manifold with some SPEEDFIT. Job done, and you can work in comfort. . That plus antifreeze inhibitor if your in a bitter climate, ( but prodaves testimony really renders that pointless ).
  19. Nickfromwales
    Not on this job, did you see where I'd have had to get to, drain down and check for leaks . If someone told me it couldn't be done then that's different. .
  20. Nickfromwales
    They can keep it. It looks like it's got a rusty shower cap on . Nice legs....shame about the face.
  21. Nickfromwales
    My alter ego Take a chill pill ffs, the tanking will be bombproof . "Stand down red alert" Yup. I'd use a little bit of bond with the aqua panel myself, but if you screw with enough frequency you shouldn't really need to.
  22. Nickfromwales
    The heat may melt the SPEEDFIT ya tool
  23. Nickfromwales
    I'll box and gland it down the arse end of the job, when the sparky is 2nd fixing. Got a lot of switching circuits, feature lighting etc etc so that'll be done in one hit.
  24. Nickfromwales
    Just ran it under hot water and resistance drops with heat. From 10k to around 3k.
  25. Nickfromwales
    Sweet
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