Nickfromwales

Yup. Speak to Byron. Just beware asking for designs as a member here had less than good results when they designed their UFH layout. They may have their ducks in a row now though as that was a while back. I used to buy all my UFH pipe and consumables from them, quite competitive.

Not likely ! I already have plenty to keep him busy......for about a year lol ?

Ok, it’s pretty much a single standard for clipping ( banding ) but as I said you can cheat if there are pozi joists and you run through the points where the two metal webs converted on the lower chord. ?. Now the 18th Ed refreshers are out and most sparks have sat it and are fluent, it’s things like this which are now getting reiterated whereas before most sparks treated it as ‘optional’ or done to attain a gold star. My lead electrician has just done his 18th / peripheral refreshers and is now ‘on point’ in all these matters of elastictrickery. ?

Distances between clips ( you need to know the regs old bean ). Who is going to sign this off? They need to witness all this and should be advising you !!!

You’ve drained the chuffing thing so many times it’ll be like Evian by now ?. +1. Contamination is moot afaic if there’s a filter in place and the water is correctly chemically treated. LLH all the way for me. Hydraulic separation is way OTT here sorry.

Wouldn’t a decent LLH suffice here? Example

Not quite. There’s a bit more ‘science’ to it than that.

Not when it’s wrapped around your regulator and you can’t reach it. And you’re in a burning building. That’s why the fire brigade brought about this legislation

Any chuffing cables. C’mon batman. THINK DAMNIT! ( please ) lol ?

Because you didn’t say please.... it’s a tool station link ✌️ Bingo

Tray is WAY OTT in a domestic situation, and still does not negate banding.

Banding. All round band ( plastic coated ) is what we use, or you can run cables through open web pozi-joists where the two metal webs meet at the bottom. That’s classed as safe, as in the fire brigades interpretation, as in the cables can’t fall down and entangle one of our finest in the event of a fire.

What he meant to call them was “ibox”’s. Pretty nifty bits of kit and more robust than BoJo’s plans for a swift exit.

About the size of a big shoe box for mains pressure, a bit bigger, or even two units if it’s gravity with the pump module. You can run the pipe as far as is practical, but you’ll have to extend the signal cable that goes between the remote control ( in the bathroom ) to the unit.

Ok. A digital mixer shower is a box that goes under the bath or in the attic / airing cupboard ( or ‘hot press’ if you’re a big lover of potato’s ) and takes a hot and cold feed ( can be mains pressurised with solenoids or gravity fed with pumps, all integral of said box ) and mixes both feeds into one “digitally-controlled” output. That single pipe output emerges in the bathroom as the riser rail / shower head feed. Simples. Do not confuse these with ‘mixer / power showers’ as they’re chalk and cheese.

I like the tray, and same for the glass arrangement. ?. The drain is nothing to worry about as it’s still technically a “self-cleaning” trap ( which means it’s user-serviceable ). Buy it with a credit card seems the safest bet here as the feedback isn’t great.

All you need is a good electrician / electrical contractor and this type of consideration will be in-built. I cannot believe the amount that some folk pay for such services!! Understandable in commercial applications, but a bit OTT for the average domestic client AFAIC. On my current electrical projects I have helped the clients with their lighting design to a point where their architects have commented that the end result is something they're very impressed by, both executed and proposed. Some other instance I've seen have been just ugly, and impractical, with a huge expected overspend on dimming packs / scene setting and more.

I've seen countless immersions on copper tanks etc over the years that are running off FCU's, and many have been in for donkeys years. I'm not a fan of a 20a supply feeding an immersion circuit, and would go to 16a max in most cases. The majority of issues come from poor quality hardware or poor connections, and the use of bootlace Ferrules in all that we do mitigates against such issues. To get to 253v you would need to be in a densely populated area with a lot of the occupants generating with PV, so not really relative as that would apply to everything consuming electricity at that time. If anything the grid often drops below not above the permissible voltage.

Ok, confusion reigns... Water flowing at full wallop all the way down the pipe, from the manifold to the outlet, then meets the restrictor and you can gauge the end flow rate pretty well. If you put the restriction at the source, eg the manifold, then you have a restricted flow at source and then it suffers further losses caused by the resistance of the pipe ( hydraulic dynamics iirc @PeterW ) and the number of twists and turns downstream, and that’s what I’m referring to as possibly problematic. Can be done at the manifold, but possibly a higher rated restrictor would he needed there vs one at the outlet in order to achieve the same result Now can I finish my steak?

Sorry, I'm late to this party For the SA you only need a 13a ( 3kW ) immersion supply. So a 20a MCB / RCBO in the CU, then a length of 2.5mm2 T&E to a 13a switched fused spur ( with neon so you know it's got juice going to it ) and you're done. If employing PV diversion I fit the My Energy Eddi units. With those you will need to split the feed to give the SA controller a permanent supply, via a second fused spur tee'd of the aforementioned one, with a 3a fuse, and then the Eddi sporadically throws pockets of energy at the SA as and when they become available ( from the sun popping its head up here and there ). You will only fully recharge the SA from PV if there is enough excess generation in every 24 hr period, so a bit of trial and error will ensue. Boosting of the grid will be required for the leaner times of the year. The Eddi will entertain boost, or you can fit an additional 3rd party device / manual boost to suit.

? You could introduce it at the manifold if you are happy to fit an inline coupler. Would be experimental though as it would be pre pipe resistance.

Noise. Ball valves sheer the flow of water and create a horrible 'rushing' noise, whereas fitting one of these at the outlet connection is near silent by comparison 2 different definitions; Flow regulator / attenuator Isolation valve ( rotary / screw / lever )

Nope. On or off, isolators NOT attenuators Flow restriction always at the outlet.

They become quite noisy if you do that. If you're going to strangle the flow then fit a restrictor in the outlet. Beware reducing the flow to WC's as they'll take forever to fill and get on your nerves when you flush the loo at night. edit : restrictor ( not reducer )

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