Nickfromwales

Simples. Get him to write a details scope of works and post it here before starting work. If they can’t be bothered, move onto the next fitter.

Gaps around the lining need the intumescent foam. Small gaps which you can’t foam can be sealed with intumescent acrylic sealant.

+1 to linings coming out. Who fitted them, and did they receive instructions to install to the required openings?

Fire doors Do NOT fail to install the intumescent foam.

If the room is empty, I would recommend pulling the lot down and starting over. Get a friend around, get suited up, and just beat the shit out of it until its all on the floor. A few rubble bags half-filled and sealed, then carried outside, and a couple of bottles of vino to celebrate thereafter. Would give some much needed therapy too .

https://www.google.com/url?sa=i&url=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.youtube.com%2Fwatch%3Fv%3DXQ5UbE-h2vg&psig=AOvVaw3VoqFsJGD6Hzd3SPG3JyiH&ust=1637361517939000&source=images&cd=vfe&ved=0CAsQjRxqFwoTCLiA55X9ovQCFQAAAAAdAAAAABAD

The screws will need to be around 60-70mm long and be seen to be pulling into the surface of the bits of boards so you know they're not just spinning into thin air. If not, it is a waste of effort / time / cost.

Socket or coupler or even barrel.

Honest answer is I don't know how "safe" it would be to leave as-is, sorry. A temporary 'fix' would be to get a trade in who has a functioning brain, who could locate the joists and screw through these boards, through the original, and into the wooden joists, to get a mechanical fix. Then the risk of them falling would be mitigated.

Welsh joke, sorry!

https://www.screwfix.com/p/female-socket-x/77539?tc=FB3&ds_kid=92700055281954514&ds_rl=1249404&gclid=Cj0KCQiAkNiMBhCxARIsAIDDKNUekQc2LPr0XYZlnZpBllCNOCnMqaZTU1AD7MwI9JqB8oeKR1N3QtsaAgMIEALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds ?

If it was, I'd have expected the moisture of the dab and the weight of the new bits of boards to have pulled the lot down already. If it is lath then it's deffo on borrowed time.

Removing this abomination will likely result in the original boards needing coming off. Prepare yourself for this to get worse before it gets better. Offer this chap a resolve. Tell him ( not ask ) that the only way you will let him finish this job will be for him to remove both the new "stuck" bits of PB and the original ceiling and for him to remove the spoil at his cost. Once at a clear ceiling, void of any ceiling boards whatsoever, employ a new person to board and skim ( plaster ) as required. Do you have some available funds to do so?

Have someone with you when you confront him. Another woman will do fine ( as I'd rather fight 6 blokes than 1 woman!! ). Your demeanour will do the talking. If you are firm and factual he will just have to accept this. If he doesn't agree, just tell him to leave there and then. This is your house and he has been invited in. Do not get into an argument, or raise your voice, but if he does, then tell him to leave or you will call the police and have him removed. Having a friend there recording on their mobile phone, just laid on a sideboard with the camera facing nothing particular will gather sufficient evidence for the police to enforce and side with you. Let me be totally clear here. This work absolutely CANNOT remain. It is not safe. There are even building regs guidelines for vertical studwork, differentiating between bathrooms and other spaces, where the studs have to be no more than 400mm centres vs the normal spacings of 600mm centres. That is prescribed so the VERTICAL walls can take an assumed load per m2 of plasterboard / tiles / adhesive / grout etc. This is the chuffing CEILING ffs!! Stop this guy now, agree a departure plan, and get him gone.

Wheel is too big. 10mm or 8mm is my preferred size, but there are many different grades of porcelain. I had some grade 5 on one job, and it was like breaking into the Hatten safe.

With W plan, yes, with S-plan you'd be better off with the 32 I suppose, but there would be very little in it AFAIC. The old Baxi 552's had 10-16kW max rating and these would be doing 10 rotten ( non-convector ) radiators for decades, in draughty 1g glazed houses with a small hot water cylinder also. The 24 will suffice either way, just these days everyone gets in a flap and buys the bigger boiler to 'be on the safe side'.

This is uniquely, the biggest bag of shit I've seen in over 30 years. Horrific. Did this clown screw all the original boards to the joists with new screws put in at 200mm gaps at least? The weight of the new boards, plus the dab will be huge. The risk of this falling and hurting someone is real. Get the lot pulled down, put in the skip, and tell this muppet to go back to the pub, after picking his horse up from the stables on the way........ Staggeringly shite. Do not allow this to be plastered.

What size wheel are you using?

You're putting WAY too much pressure down on the cutting wheel. You should barely be scoring them. Go easy, tiger!!

https://www.ukplanettools.co.uk/makita-djr185z-18v-mini-receiprocating-saw-bare-unit-djr185z.html?gclid=Cj0KCQiAkNiMBhCxARIsAIDDKNUTPeD7VSND-NSUnD2RhIRzVhBftiEKPOfDlxKp4XFol7P5rhfZ18MaAlrsEALw_wcB

Who's coat is that jacket?

These are what I use.

How far from the inside edge of the pozi to the internal PP panel? Maybe a recip saw will be the weapon of choice if you cant get a jigsaw in there. I'd rather buy a tool I know I'll use again vs a one-shot tool that will gather dust from that day onwards. Or, https://www.screwfix.com/p/erbauer-adjustable-holesaw-with-cowl-29cm-9-piece-set/2571V?tc=FB3&ds_kid=92700055262507123&ds_rl=1244066&gclid=Cj0KCQiAkNiMBhCxARIsAIDDKNXkPP7NLdl4oP0CRkpnaiIufaNeLkbkj04xNZWniNY_IihSVsxYZwQaAlU7EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds Can be used for cutting spots out etc later so multiple uses for that. The cowl on that will need to be removed to get in between the webs of the joist, and you'll need balls if steel for that. Me personally, I'd just remove a 600mm square of the external board, cut the PP panel from outside in with a jigsaw / multitool / recip saw and refit. Drill a centred pilot through the hole you just made to mark the external panel, after glueing and screwing it back to the 600mm c'd vertical frame spines, and then cut out with the jigsaw..

Combination heating arrangement here with a mix of rads and UFH, so the LLH provides both hydraulic separation, plus somewhere for the boiler pump to 'run off' to ( whilst it lights / pumps out an initial wedge of heat energy / waits to register the return temp to decide on the required amount of modulation ). It'll act as a hydraulic buffer, but also an accidental energy buffer too.

Jigsaw on internal, and guess what you’d use externally? ??? Yup. The same jigsaw. A few minutes work each hole. A 200mm hole saw will be cumbersome and single use. The jigsaw will become a friend through your build, alongside his best mate; the multi tool. ?