Nickfromwales

I disagree. If this falls down from a vertically mounted orientation the damage to person and property will be severe, sorry, assuming of course you will have to make your own custom mounts and wall brackets for this. Also, the side wall is nowhere near as strong as the shared point load where the intended / correct feet attach, and, as your training will tell you, cast will just fracture and fail in one instant. Add to that, that this will be full of very, very hot water as they're very inefficient, and I (personally) would advise against this. You asked, so that's my answer, but of course 'fill yer boots' as it's not my house, and it's just my own opinion

This is all that matters. It is the force of the cold mains pushing hot water out of the cylinder that gives you the 'high pressure' (aka balanced) supply you need. I would not fit an electric shower here at all as it completely wastes the saving from all the expense you have gone to installing an energy efficient heatpump that will produce hot water. 100% use the cylinder for the showers, but my worry is that your plumber may not have plumbed this for "balanced" supplies (all mixer outlets like showers fed from the cylinder multiblock (aka control group)). Do you know anything about the install?

Hi. It just sounds dangerous tbh, due to the massive weight alone. Putting all the weight on to the side of the rad, an area never designed to take that weight, is a no-no AFAIC.

We’re very proud of our lost, prestigious housing stock with EPC’s of Z.

Wales is a very exclusive club, that'as all mate.

Cheaper again :- LINK

Maybe, possibly, offering up some slightly more productive comments would help, or perhaps no comments in the absence of? This is a new member and they need to acclimatise a little before we bite their arse, lol. @NIMAN, you'll get used to the folk here, just we've seen it all, heard it all, and the answers are just frank and honest, but are largely based on fact and knowledge sharing. Just slip your big-boy pantaloons on and take it as it's meant; just 'to the point' sometimes but not 'nasty'.

Also the boiler won't be able to cope with the short-cycling of supplying heat via the heat ex and this will further expedite it's demise.

They will just shrug their shoulders, and look at you blankly, at best. At worst they'll just tell you it's absolutely nothing whatsoever to do with BRegs and will simply dismiss you. For completeness, you and your questions / data will fly way over their heads / knowledge sets, so you are completely wasting your time engaging with your BCO for this. Apologies if the replies seem blunt, but you are making the most humungous mountain out of a molehill, and 30 years of data is a 1/3 of your lifetime! Because with a series of unfortunate failures here, you have a scald risk. Those that don't know, don't know, and they are the dangerous ones. A little like those who argue that doing your own gas work is legal, which on a dark day may well be the case, but ONLY if you are the sole occupant of the house and you have the only key to get in to it. Absolutely do not do this, it is dangerous as feck. Possible, but expensive and complex. The easiest, as it's what I do to top up the kids outdoor paddling pool to take the edge off the cold water it gets filled with after cleaning. However, this is done via a thermostatic mixing valve to prevent scalding water getting to the hose. Any instantaneous water heater carries a serious risk of delivering scalding water. OK, time for a reality check methinks!!!! Just go and buy a simple, cheap A2W pool / hot tub heat pump LINK and end this madness. Great CoP and you can do away with the relic of a boiler you are gambling all this cost and complexity on, as it will fail shortly and then you'll be kicking yourself.

That's the best question of the day!

You must allow for the worst case, which is that the hose has become fractured and you need to get it off the bellows as well as off the button, so it can be replaced.

The floor material (say 22mm P5) gets laid over the Marmox, and you screw through the 2 and into the joists. Use x thickness of Marmox to get your levels correct, and you're off to the races.

Yup, and if the OP bites the bullet and covers the whole area with it, not just the joist tops, it'll form the upper vapour barrier if glued and taped etc etc. Even a 6mm board will give excellent results, but for the minimal cost of going for the additional 4mm (or more if they can afford / fit) there will then be an uplift on that.

A bit like watching your house getting burgled on the 15 CCTV cameras you've installed.

Ok, well the tile in the sill is the one I would start with. Least amount of disruption. Then a call to the fitter to say "You, my friend, are a bell-end of the highest disorder. Are you of similar brain-power to a plant? Just asking, for a friend".

Often 'fitters' will set the window sill up so it can be removed so you can get access from the top down. Any pics of this?

There's a plastic lock nut on the back of that, so if you keep messing with it the push button will be dangling by the pneumatic hose and the locknut will be swinging around on it behind the wall / tile. Q: Has anyone actually been behind this and looked PROPERLY for any form of secret / hidden access?

+1, just don't go mad with the wacker!

Yup, they will not thank you for this unless it has been agreed comprehensively before they arrive on site so they can adjust their time / labour fairly.

The man has spoken, and his words are wise ones. "Heed" y'all!! Airtightness is the money shot here for sure, but if possible also put some 10mm (or thicker) Marmox / similar insulation board between the flooring and the joists to kill the repeat thermal bridging, if you can lose that slight gain in floor height?

Have the council said you can have a white line painted across the dropped section to prevent cars parking there? Kind of moving the problem sideways as they'll just park it right back there after the crossover is done. Last resort; Ask a kind Pikey to 'collect' it......

Finish the patio 200mm from the up-stand wall at the turfed area and fill it with 3/4 decorative chippings. I think this will need to be around 300mm deep to be effective as a mini soak away, meaning you’d need deeper foundation for the wall. You defo don’t have any storm or foul drain at the rear?

It’s never one pump. That’s the issue. You’ll need at least 2 pumps and to be routinely testing, cleaning, maintaining them for the rest of your days. The time you relax and think “I’ll get to it next week” is when the building will be flood damaged. Two words spring to mind, the second is “that”. You can install panels as low as 8° so I still think there’s potential to be at ground level with your sole plate. If you are staying on this path then the above is the best advice; never rely on one pump as it will fail when you don’t want it to. Also, you need to allow for a system that will be able to cope with a 1-in-a-hundred-year storm to be anywhere near even close to considering this solution. You’ll need a sump about 600mm in diameter, with a closure plate to stop an infant / human falling in, and that will need to have the two pumps dangling on stainless chains so they can be lifted out to be checked / inspected / replaced. What a massive pita though. Just put the solar due south, get the shed out of the ground, and keep it cheap and simple. The cost of all this craziness will mean your PV payback (RoI) will be multiples of decades so just completely dumb maths afaic. You’ll have zero benefit from it too, as the electricity to run the pumps all wet season will consume all that you generate each summer, and more. Factor in replacing the pump(s) and you’re wasting time, effort and at an expense that you absolutely will not recover in your whole lifetime. “Nuts idea”, sorry! 🫤 Ill get my tin hat ready

It’s OK Mike, I’ll edit it lol 🫡 🙄😉

FYI, my 6m x 4m man-shed / office has a sloping flat roof to comply. It begins with an internal head height of 2.1m, at the office where I'm sat, and then rises away to the doorway end. Zero of this is below ground, other than the base. Plenty of room, and acknowledges the PD requirement for max height etc