Nickfromwales

This may require a second G3 sign off, as you're then sealing up a pressurised cylinder which could go "bang" in the perfect storm. The thermal store type needs to be considered and whether or not it has a T&PRV relief valve or not, but a decent installer can talk you through this for feasibility before committing. It's just the thought of your heating costs via indirect immersions and then the losses of the F&E setup that make me think there's a better way perhaps. It may require a new TS in the worst case, but if this is your heating solution for life, I'd even consider an electric inline boiler and do away with the TS altogether as that is a very convoluted and inefficient way of changing electricity into heat tbh.

As this is now an expensive way to heat the home, I'd defo consider converting to sealed and pressurised, and do away with the F&E arrangement for good. Then there's also no way for air to get in. https://www.bes.co.uk/intafil-plus-24ltr-heating-vessel-and-sealed-system-kit-20246/ for example

Hi. I've recently done a 16th century cottage bathroom and the floor was like a piano keyboard, as you walked the floor deflected downward at each joist. Then ensued the biggest pig of a job you could wish for, getting it solid and level enough to be converted into a quality ensuite with bath and wetroom shower area. I sister'd the biggest timbers I could get in, but on both sides where it needed it, glued and screwed to death with zero nails used ANYWHERE!! You can park a car up there now. Do all the strengthening work, then get an electrician to drill the joists to re-route the cables, and then lay 22mm P5 deck, again glued and screwed, and you'll be fine. It's a LOT of work to do these properly (retrospectively) and I did have to re-do some of the plumbing tbh, but you get out of things whatever effort you put in. Good luck!

Oddly the blade appears to be installed in that saw backwards….may be worth asking why if considering buying.

If you’re doing skirting and architraves all day every day then crucial, but most have it at entry level anyways. Dual bevel is nice if you can spare the few extra £10’s.

One example https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/256696857214?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=FtY60_Z0RRm&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=rjjTfFKkTOO&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY

Could also do with an automatic bypass between the flow before the mixing valve and the boiler return to deal with when the boiler is only (or very partially) servicing the UFH; where it then can’t dissipate the flow energy that the pump creates. Depending on boiler model it may have a modulating pump, if so not so much of an issue, but best to check so the boiler doesn’t self-destruct over time.

Yup. Two ways to go around a corner, a) an elbow, and b) a bend. Elbows are sharp 90°’s, bends have a sweeping radius. Bends for waste where horizontal, elbows or bends fine for vertical or where space is tight / immediately off the trap or outlet. People don’t realise how much restriction can be caused by cheap traps (typically much lower L/p/m flow rate at gravity) particularly for Chinese wastes on basins. Went to one job where the basin wouldn’t empty, suspected blocked trap etc, but after realising it was all relatively new pipe work I drilled out the slots in the plug hole to enlarge them and problem solved. Just not enough ‘hole’ for the water to fall through.

👆👌👊

Complete garbage for anything you want any precision with in honesty. When you’ve used a quality saw (DeWalt 780XPS for me) you’ll instantly see what I’m talking about. You’re far better off buying a good used DeWalt / Bosch / other quality brand and staying away from DIY shed stuff, plus far better longevity and support for spares down the road.

It’s the suds/foam atop the moving water that slows the air exchange and impedes flow. Its why I routinely put 40mm rubs to basins and 50mm to everything else, then reduce at the absolute last minute.

For the structural stuff, I would. SE needs to be involved to spec, BCO to indirect and approve then sign it off. Agreed, sorry. As per above 👆 SE needed then BCO.

You employ the BCO, so the sooner the better, but not before you have detailed construction drawings. The BCO will dictate the spec, and will tell you when they want to visit etc.

Yes, the ready mix reconstitutes with water, so is the anti-christ of adhesives for wet areas. I told my mate not to use it, he had a mate tiling who ‘recommended’ it (as it’s simple and easier for a lot of lazy tilers) and all the tiles around the base of the wet area of the shower just literally washed away over the subsequent weeks (glass finger mosaic panels). Cementitious stuff absorbs moisture as part of the curing process, so you can grout the next day and it’ll be bombproof. I’ve been tiling for north of 30 years, thats where this advice is coming from. @nod prob been at it longer at it than me.

Some are ok, some are jobsworths, that’s the problem. The info needs to come from your inspector not us tbh. I’ve had one pass without, as you say, but we used Timberframe not brick and block to build back up.

Yup. +1. Would need to all be made up from an off grid setup and mostly featuring Chinesium kit. First thing to break would wipe out the assumed savings (but I doubt there would ever have been a saving here more of an expensive failed experiment, tbf).

It’s just not something you can use where you need to dub out areas as it doesn’t ever dry out when applied over 3-5mm thick. Particularly bad where it’s a constant splash/wet area, or where a porcelain tile is being used (due to its lack of porosity). Acrylic works fine on new open plaster/plasterboard, and with a porous ceramic tile, but I simply stopped using ready mixed adhesive as it is just too inferior to cementitious stuff to ever risk it. Proper DIY imho. If you’ve tanked also, then it’s 10x worse again, especially if you need to grout the next 24/48 hrs, as this stuff really needs the grout lines to allow the moisture to evaporate/escape. I used it once over tanking, with porcelain, and 2 days later I removed the bottom batten and the tiles just started sliding down the wall in front of me. Whole wall was taken back off, adhesive in most places was wet enough to put back into the tub and be removed complete with a wet sponge, never used that stuff again after that tbh.

How many layers of ply are under the membrane? 1 layer of 18mm OSB3? When you factor in the weight dispersion of the pedestal sitting on top of that it already behinds to spread the issue out, vs you considering it direct to the PIR. You could also make some plates for the pedestals to sit on, maybe 300x300 porcelain, and that’ll prob suffice. Talk it through with manufacturers and suppliers reps to see what does/doesn’t work, and what been reported to have failed over time, which is for you to do for your own diligence, is the correct advice obvs.

2.5kW solar, even tracking, won’t do diddly-squat for heating, and if you need a 21kW heat pump you’ve got far better places to look at for practical energy/efficiency gains I assure you! Leave it all A/C, and keep it simple. Installers and repair/service agents will take one look at a Frankenstein setup, realise it’s completely illegal (ergo unsafe to work on), and walk away. It’s a “no” for this one I’m afraid, but also can you get more solar? That’s where I’d put any funds from “avoided tomfoolery” tbh.

You (tiler) can build that out with cementitious flexible tile adhesive, no problem at all. Just dub the low areas out in a few sets to get the wall spot on for a nice even finish, and a good consistent line across the bath edge (so you can’t see that the wall bellies basically). Do not use acrylic/ready mixed stuff there whatever you do!

I doubt there will be an existing found there tbh, and last garage conversion I did had to have one dig in and poured to satisfy the BCO before the dwarf wall under the window could be installed. Was some specified curing time for the concrete also, iirc. Not sure how practical lintels would be vs pouring a found, as these will need concrete pours each end to take them anyways. Maybe direct the pipe work / services after digging out, then protect them to build over, then do a pour. Depends if you can get lintels in, services under, and pads each end I guess. Are you DIY’ing? If not, make it the builders problem

That’s all good. Doors and windows are a relatively permanent feature, so buy cheap buy twice is my advice. Heat loss argument is instantly outweighed by how draughty shitty-quality doors/seals/locking gear will become when they begin to fail with use, so that is where I’d focus my attention when buying. I’d favour bifolds over sliders every damn day, as you can almost fully open up the….opening. A reputable supplier will sell reputable gear, so don’t buy these from the middle aisle in Aldi

Sales persons think the simple sale will be the quickest sale. Simples. These people have overheads to cover so cannot go a month with no sales caused by their integrity.

It won't in practicality, hence why most plumbing installs for new houses that I do (where this matters) have :- hard water > softener > all non-consumption outlets, plus then :- hard water > water conditioner 'cartridge' filter > faucet/fridge/Quooker tap for human consumption.

Oh, you've simply not lived...lol Mostly chlorine and other such things, but there are many threads on here so search away and reap the rewards.