Nickfromwales

I was discussing this exact thing with a client this morning, and I mentioned that I use offcuts of PVC conduit at the start / end of straight runs, flexible conduit at turns if they're pinch points, and to not allow pipes to rest on thin timber such as the OSB webs of I-beams. In most instances where we install all the domestic plumbing for a self build client I make sure the pipes are insulated the whole length with a cheap 9mm wall EPS for all colds, and the same for sporadically used hots, and if there's a hot return then they get done in 19mm or 25mm wall insulation, bigger the better for those, but depends on bottlenecks and actually getting lots of that size insulation to congregate at the manifolds / UVC. Then use all round patent band to hold the insulation not the pipe. If you don't want to (or retrospectively cannot) insulate the whole run, then just use a 100mm section of insulation where you need to mechanically fix (clip) the pipe, and the patent band to replace the regular clip; so as to have the pipe slip freely inside the insulation. Cold pipes actually don't really need to be done as they just go from ambient to cold and back again, just the hot pipes tbh. Insulating the colds is a 'thing' if you fear condensation will be an issue, but that's more prevalent with copper vs plastic push fit pipework so possibly moot. I just tell the guys to insulate it all so I don't have to program them with the information of which pipes to do / not do, for sanity.

The mitres will birds-mouth out then unless that is factored into a compound cut. Sanding the plaster down will be a bigger PITA and less controllable than planing the architrave imho. And dusty / messy as heck. Planing the timber means no filling and sanding, where the sandpaper went astray, as it will for sure!

Yes, but is completely redundant as the rising stack is vented to atmosphere. There was no need for a T and a short stack there, even less an AAV. The whole stack looks as it should function perfectly, so the issue isn't out there Are the WC's gravity fed or cold mains fed?

Anything should have a min 1 year warranty, just ensure that you are the party that is wedded to it, is all I'm saying vs assume anything

Cases vary, just I've spoken to a number of people in the solar industry and clients at various exhibition shows, and gleaned the feedback there. SolarEdge are a very reputable company for eg. Most clients don't know why the system has stopped working, so they need the original installers to come out so that between them they can ascertain what the fault is. Some have been unsuccessful getting certain panel brands replaced, is what I have been told.

Sometimes that is to cut your losses and run, selling quickly for less to a developer who then has to do the hurdle-jumping. Factor in time as well as costs, as none of us are getting any younger, and a complex build project can be an arse. Have you considered getting planning and doing the property conversion yourselves, via a costed and programmed builder, for full retail sale?

Don't buy a cheap one as the cutting edges are crap and then they get hot and burn the wood Ask me how my tight arse knows lol.

It's all good. You can fit the boiler pretty much anywhere, as these are mostly RS (room sealed) appliances which do not require "adventitious airflow" to function. The boiler sucks in fresh air to consume via the outer ring of the coaxial flue, and ejects the products of combustion via the inner one. In attic installs nearly every one has had to go on a made up timber frame, and back in the day you could not mount the boiler on to a combustible surface; we clad the plywood frame with Ellis / cement board. Nowadays iirc there are plenty of boilers which no longer require this to be observed. Rules with flues are, you must be able to see / inspect / 'get to' every mechanical joint. For a flue install where the flue was boxed in and tiled over at the ceiling level in a bathroom, I used a Vaillant boiler and their 4m flue extension, so as to not have any inaccessible joint. I asked the GSR agent to note this in the commissioning log, and to retain pics (same for client) for downstream evidence for future service / repair agents.

Try asking the window supplier, I reckon they get this problem a lot and may have a solution.....which is a solution.... See what I did there?

Phew. I saw the title and thought @Pocster was going back on the naughty step....lol

Oh, and Hi, and welcome, by the way lol

Can it not simply remain and be considered a dysfunctional part of the makeup, and you do as you suggest with the roof 'growing'? 175mm PIR is a decent spec. Is the rest of the building being upgraded to reflect this? You say airtight barrier, is the entire conversion to adopt airtightness to a specific value?

Have you run this past a planning 'officer' to firstly ensure the change would not be contested? My mates house is an old grocers shop that he and his wife ran for years in an area of greenbelt and away from supermarkets etc. When there was a selection of reasonably close supermarkets his clietele started to go there and not to him. He and his wife said let's close the shop and convert to a nice big family home, the locals went berserk. They claimed he should not be able to deprive them of this essential local amenity. He attended the local meeting and said, if you lot didn't go to Tesco I'd still have a business, so you've fallen on your own sword, sorry. PP went in his favour, but just food for thought. Estate agents look from their angle, eg can they make money from you. Planners will say "yes or no" to the viability. Talk to the right people

Just either quote selection, or for specific parts of a post, just highlight a sentence etc and the quote box will pop up, then click on it. If you make a hash of it before posting, don't worry, just refresh the page and click back on the comment box, your hash will reappear, then you just select 'clear editor' and you can have another go. Also for tagging members, just type the @ symbol followed by the first couple of characters of the username and there will be a drop down list, choose the one you want and click on it

...he says, scratching his chin with his remaining 3 fingers

Not drinking? Well, ok, but that's a different website for that I'm afraid!

Yes, sir!

Yes, sorry, just been a long day and clarifying. A plumber setting the towel rads to run with UFH simultaneously isn't that bad an idea. I do recommend that if there's a small UFH system or just one room of UFH with a couple of loops. Not connecting the grey wire is just bloody stupid though!

Then use with any wood

If you have / can hire a 'rebating' planer, then you just set that to take a 2mm pass down the back side, eg with the plane set up with the guide so that the blade doesn't take anything off the thin edge of the architrave.

Is this the case if the boiler is already lit and burning to heat any rads? Eg the already heated (hot) water in the primary pipework isn't getting to the mixing valve and manifold loops?

👌👍

+1. Been on a few in-roof installs and I was surprised at just how quickly it all went in, vs a re-roof job I did ages ago where we had to take an on-roof system off and then reattach it afterwards. What a PITA that was. Pigeons nested behind most of the peripheral panels to a bit of ethical uncomfortableness too factor in, so the further ugly / also PITA of fitting vermin skirting is another thing I’d want to avoid at all costs. In-roof, every damn day of the week. Choose a very good quality panel, with a warranty tied to the manufacturer vs one that you’d need the installer for. Lots of people lost their cover when the FIT ended and around 5000 MCS registered companies disappeared…..

@Ann D Mann The responses here are constructive criticism, just honest opinions shared here as you’ve asked the question(s). “Waste not” is fine, every single person on here is of exactly the same mindset, but you wouldn’t spend £1 to earn 30p would you? The shear cost and complexity, upheaval, maintenance for life, and inconvenience of burning wood routinely to then have this make ANY kind of sense, makes no sense at all. The money you’ll put into this, just put that into a glass jar and label it “GAS” and spend the money more wisely. When the WBS is lit, try and maximise the benefit by opening doors up and using the convection fans to get heat shifted about the property. I'm a fan of crazy ideas, but not when the cost outweighs the benefit.