Nickfromwales

Check under your bed every night before you go to sleep. Richard Attenborough will be waiting for you, and will pounce when you least expect it. 🥷

Do yours not have the apron course at the bottom? Assume you’re double battened to get panels lower than the roof covering? Any pics?

The leds are just held in with a metal clip / ring and it’s a 2 min job to switch a dead lamp out. I buy my ones from Tornado lighting. Some more info here:

I'm just finishing reviewing an MVHR quote lol, then I'm pulling the plug. Catch you on "the flipside". "Focker, out"

I shall. 👍

I think you'd have benefitted greatly from using alu spreader plates here, but your prep works seems good You may need to raise the flow temp to get the results from in the areas without the pug mix, but that'll be down to trial and error I guess. Defo install room stats per zone as these will behave quite differently methinks.

Let me post you some soothing ales, drink these in moderation and you shall sleep like a baby. Or you'll sell them on to fund the purchase of more airtightness tape, and quietly keep on rocking yourself to sleep.

Thank you. That is the least I can expect any client to get, as someone who actually gives the aforementioned f@ck. Quite frustrating that I have met some very underserving clients along the way; SWMBO says "you've kissed some frogs" lol, but what doesn't kill you......eh?

No screed fella tiles direct to the constructional slab. I forgot to say the 142 mesh was in for anti-crack, as one would at least hope for with a 100mm slab. Yup, but as a turnkey M&E / build consultant I take these things into consideration even before a shovel gets stuck in the ground. A bit of extra vigilance from the steel installers, a bit of extra overlap where the issues may rear their ugly heads, and some "give a f@ck" goes a long way. On that 140m2 slab we only had a "grin" (absolute hairline crack) that begun inside the ring beam and stopped at the intermediates. Quite astounding TBH given the mass involved, but as said above the temp flux with these things is just so damn low you don't really need to panic (unlike some SE's who need to underwrite this stuff and keep their arses out of any slings). FWIW I have conducted business (always on a clients behalf) with some great SE's, so please do not think I don't respect those who have shone.

I have been fitting high-end bathrooms and wet-rooms for most of my life, and I personally dislike backerboards. I always used MR plasterboard and tank the living daylights out of it, with strips to internal and external corners / junctions etc, and I have never had a room leak; that includes wet-rooms on the 1st floor over timber floors and posi-joists etc etc. The only time I selected backer board (15mm thick) was to create a bespoke double-ended walk in (his&hers) shower area from scratch (2700mm x 900mm) as nobody on the face of the earth made one. Belt and braces with timber and gaps, plenty of screws and adhesive, tanked until my arms fell off, still good to this day. You may as well use the MR on the ceiling, cost difference is a couple of pints.

Is this so you can DIY?

Maybe IKEA's superstore slab, but not a domestic raft?? Last MBC passiv raft we tiled over was 140m2, 100mm thick between ring and intermediate beams, no expansion joints anywhere, fully porcelain tiled GF, and we just used Ultra flexible standard set adhesive over a quality primer. Not even a hairline crack in the grout. Not so sure about the cost (or certainly if you put a price on time) but using professionals to support where decisions aren't reversible, is a wise investment AFAIC. For superstructure and foundation design work I always support the client directly, to let them know what the different choices available to them actually are, and what impact (quality / suitability / cost / performance etc) the choices will have, and I always challenge the architects 1st revision and then move onto the SE to make sure they haven't built it to withstand a nuclear strike. When I first started dipping my toes into the world of working for stand-alone self build clientele I used to look up to the likes of architects, until I realised some (a lot) of them knew very little about 'modern' construction methodology but wrote it on their website to stay 'current'. For my current client, they were going for a standing seam metal roof, and solar PV, and when I said about the significant cost saving of going for a nice slate plus the further saving of the non-slated areas behind the PV by going in-roof PV they looked shocked. They said "we were persuaded by the architect as he has that on his home and prefers it", ffs. Needless to say the roof is now on, and the PV too, and it's been done with slates with a chunk of change left in the kitty. Choose your 'professionals' well!

I was just about to say crack on with the groundworks and foundation design etc. Jeez..... Ah well, nearly there.

Does the conduit fall downhill from inside to out? If so, you just seal internally. If the conduit is flat, drill again and set it at a fall.

Yes, you call the installers back and tell them that the workmanship is shocking. Those frames should be arrow straight, zero excuses.

There was some discussion of these on here a while ago, stating some particular nasties being produced as a product of combustion. Have you looked into this fully, as I do like the idea vs a wood burning stove for a real flame, when a clients remit includes one, but the report put me off a little. Folk on here seem to have got on well with them though, so not sure about the concerns I had heard. I think it was a Wiki link posted here. Anyone recall this discussion, can't seem to find it and I'm worrying it may have all been a dream lol. Some reading here: A bit more science on this one Enjoy!

Yes, sorry, just been typing to fast lately lol. The panels are "thicker" than most roof coverings so the upper surface that the rain is running down / off is higher than say a slate or tile. There have been instances where regular guttering cannot cope with / contain heavy rain water runoff, and that has ended up 'jumping' the gutter and becoming a nuisance. edited to clarify, yes, I mean even with in-roof.

The bit I'd avoid if copying the above is, you DO NOT want the outside tap coming off the internal plumbing systems and robbing the house of pressure.

I thought that PI was required where / if the contractor was the designer, but if the architect (principal designer) specifies, and the contractors are just the installers working to instruction, then they only (afaik) need PL. I am not a legal expert btw.

Or just fit a hybrid inverter, or go for one that supports export limitation. Loads of ways to skin that cat.

Thanks. That’s quite low pressure, and that’s referred to as a static pressure test. Leave the gauge connected and get the pump to fire up by drawing off a chunk of water, then report back with what that gauge shows, where it is now, for the dynamic pressure test.

Welcome aboard Just search the sub forums for the subject matter and start a new thread, or simply add to an already established thread. Click on any members posts and highlight a section, then you’ll see a box to quote them, which will then appear in the text box editor below. Type the @ symbol and then the first few letters of the members username to ‘mention’ that member when posting, and they’ll see that you’ve mentioned them and they can respond. Have a look here for abbreviations, if something gets typed which you don’t ‘get’

👍. Next step will be to contact the installer of the LVT and get their input, so you don’t accidentally get any of the process or prep wrong and they refuse to lay over it. LVT installers usually want a subfloor to lay their “feathering compound” on to, but they may be happy to do the whole pour. They’re the ones who will decide, ultimately, which SLC product gets used.

That’s a lot of juice, so would good in winter. Too many people get hung up on how a roof will look, and then very rarely ever look at it again after moving in (when actual life goes on, after the build is no longer all they think about).

Look into deeper gutters, as like everything else in life "it can be done", just best to know what you don't know, before committing