Nickfromwales

Use decent quality ones so they don’t leak! Pegler are v good for the money.

Happy days. BTW, the grey outer collar is cosmetic, and the female threaded union you just refitted that to is welded to the tank. I looked at the MIs and the tank is stainless, so no other harm will have happened other than the bits of corrosion on the steel sleeve at the base, but again cosmetic. All good!

That’s tight as hell, so the only way you’ll get that isolated is to put a pair of 1/4 turns above and another pair below, and don’t even contemplate altering the pipework attached to the UFH, “operation can-of-worms!”. You may have to use standard gate valves if 1/4 turns won’t swing, but ideally you’ll want full bore hence my mention of lever (ball) valves as the preferential ones. You can unbolt the levers if necessary, eg on the lower inner one where it’s getting tight.

Hiring a diamond wall chaser (that an electrician would use) may be ok, but I’m not sure of the depth of cut they offer. That would defo remove a lot of the hard work and be worth the hire cost, but you may then have to chip out a bit at the deepest point. All could go to the nearest WC but it is what it is. If I plan these at the pre construction stage for clients projects I have a 110mm at each shower footprint. 20/20 hindsight is required obvs.

Yup. 🥵. You work out the minimum amount you need to remove and no more. As it’s just soapy water you need very little fall.

Some properties are leakier / more adverse so no 2 jobs can be compared in the real world. If your current BCO says fit fans you’ll be fitting fans, that’s that really. Yes, you can crack the window and never actually use the cloakroom fan, but if you drop the kids off at the pool you’ll want that being extracted, not wafted back through the house because the draught is incoming vs outgoing. I bought Icon fans with actuated shutters and they’re brilliant in winter for staving off the Baltic cold infiltration the previous open fan provided. Get some of those as if you decide to not use them you won’t suffer the draughts.

Apologies, I’ve not answered that and you did ask They’re all much of a muchness, but Reliance and Esbe are the industry leaders. Inta and Caleffi are #2, then after that it’s Russian roulette. The scale is ferrous oxide, so see what the good old internet says about getting it shifted. If you’re a competent plumber then crack on, we can help out by drawing some pics to guide you along 👍

Yup. Just some I’ve spoken to have expressed an opinion on moving in without certain things in place, like MVHR and electrical test cert plus smoke / heat / CO1 detectors etc.

I’ve used almost nothing but MR plasterboard & tanking for the last 20+ years, and lots have been high end projects (£25k in one bathroom), and I’ve never had a single drip or dribble (and I’ve had the same phone number for 25 years). Lots of these have been 1st floor installs over timber joists. Tanking is your friend, so why tank over something more expensive than plasterboard?

If the temp water pipe is disconnected the no CTax as it’s classed as inhabitable? You can push your luck and just say it’s all there for welfare. You can also remove rights of assumed access to the site meaning CTax bods cannot walk onto the site.

Showers will go to each of the 2 110’s for those back to back WCs, and the other WC will take the bath. Basins T out of the 50mm runs to showers / bath or into 110mm boss’s, but should always rise out of the slab in 40mm, not 32mm, and I only reduce from 40 to 32mm at the elbow immediately prior to the basin trap.

👌

Whack a tap connector on, waters solved, move on to next problem 👍

Yes, understood, but as said any decent plumber will just shoot off and buy some unions and make it up according to what / where / how. It’s just like playing with LEGO tbh, just just use the bits you need, click them together, fill and test, go to pub. Very simple job tbh. Mounting the pump and mixing set away from the manifold is easy, your only difficulty will be finding a good plumber who won’t instantly shit the bed when you ask them to switch on the gray matter. Are you looking to keep that manifold? Chain being as strong as the weakest link etc etc.

Which you don’t own? Buy a cheap water meter and pay for what you use?

Yup. Nobody wants you in there before completion, prob best not to ask the BCO unless you get on very very well with them. Just say it’s fitted out so you can use it for “welfare” and hope everyone ‘looks the other way’. Insurance’s will be in no man’s land obvs, so don’t put valuables in there as you’ll have no property protection for goods, only site insurance for the purpose of construction. Very grey area there, but plenty of people must do this to stop haemorrhaging money on rent and commuting.

You have some sort of up stand / outside tap? If so, now the weathers broken, you can just run 15mm push-fit pipe to that for potable water. Baby Belling cooker and a microwave, with a bit of worktop with a sink in it for wash up, and slide the washing machine under the side of that for some clean trolleys. 👍.

Most manifolds are 1” BSP threads so a lot of these are interchangeable, just a matter of sometimes having to remove the isolation tails to take you from male > female to whichever option you need (some TMVs have a pair of male unions, some female, where’s these have been supplied as a paired setup / are OEM). Easily doable, and if the centres are measured you will know if that’s an issue or not, but usually, again, any decent plumber will swap this all out and ‘make it work’ in one day.

Yup, they'll do the trick! The scumbags won't want to ruin their designer robbing clobber.

If OP has them set to 23 then isn’t that what they want? If the programming is changing to too high a temp then that’s a programming error. Those parameters are user definable.

Maybe speak to the good people at Swarovski? Sorry, couldn’t resist.

One would assume Drayton have thought about this? If the room stats (TRVs in this instance) are set to 21°C the the rooms will get no hotter, regardless of the WC curve, Shirley?

Can’t this have both? I guess it depends on how intelligent the ASHP ctrls are and how it’s all been set up. Very difficult to answer all this here with such limited info tbf!

The Drayton kit will still talk to the rad valves, if set up correctly, and you should not see any ‘change’ in heat source. The circumstances that sees the output from the ASHP call to the boiler (aux heater) will see it go to sleep and tell the boiler to fire up, so when the Drayton kit says call for heat is satisfied the output signal (one would assume) will then cease and both devices will go into standby / sleep until the next heating event. The controls will then cascade through beginning with the ASHP, (does OAT = <5°? if yes then fire aux heater) etc, and off to go. Do you have a buffer tank in the install or just heaters > rads?