Nickfromwales

Yes, sorry, when I said drain down I just meant turn off mains, open all taps fully until nothing comes out, then you’re ’drained down’. Cylinder will remain full.

Can be the case, aka commissioning debris. If you search on YouTube you should see how to strip / clean / reassemble the PRedV. Quick and easy, just unscrew the body from the valve to expose the gauze filter. Note, turning the water off and draining down via a tap would be ‘advantageous’ in terms of staying dry. Have an old beach towel to hand to deal with a bit of residual water in the local pipe and valve itself.

Yup. Near to zero issue in real life with a decent performance house and a decent slab / emitter. Any movement we’ve anticipated has been mitigated with flexible tile adhesives, but still 1mm or so max over same distances, or less. As the slab and coverings heat up over time they tend to live together too, more relevant for porcelain / ceramics etc, so we don’t even put expansion / relief joints in any more. Very different for thinner screeds as these are a bit more on/off ‘able and will perform differently I expect. How much more differently is down to flow temp and circumstances tbh. We usually do 25-50mm PIR up stands plus the crappy expansion skirting; fitted only really to cover my arse as I work for 3rd parties.

Interesting! I was really put off by the MI’s, and frustrating to hear as my electric meter glows in the dark during winter…… Maybe I’ll review again, thanks for the feedback.

So, if you allowed another £3k for an installer (overheads and profit), assuming the client supplies scaffold, then you’re still in single digits. £6-7k for a ~4kwp system (commercially installed) seems about the average. People forget that with batteries, if you can’t empty them every 24 hrs then they’re oversized. You don’t bank electricity over days you should generate / shift / consume every 24 hrs.

I looked at these a lot, but, according to each manufacturers literature, the drying times were massively elongated vs a regular one, so I didn’t buy a HP one. We’re a busy family of 6 so I can’t have a large load taking 4-6 hours to dry, we’d all be walking around in the buff at that point 😝

It’s not sales talk though, or a guesstimate, it’s all done on MCS software and ROI is calculated using and export value 50% lower than you would actually get; this means (has meant) that all clients to date have reported that the systems are performing better than they anticipated thus further narrowing the time to get to break even. At 20 years break even I doubt we’d have sold a single system tbh!

New Solarwatt inverter for 1ph can be loaded up at 80-100% of it's design capacity, so bags of headroom there to add later. A few different configs, so needs the nose in the book obvs!

Oh, and good luck with the next one!!

I can PM you the details of the chap / company I just used. Was an ICF build, basement, swimming pool etc and a very complex arrangement which he dealt with very well. Ping me a PM if so.

Best advice ever.

I've been doing solar surveys for my clients for each self build, and not one of them has had a payback (breakeven / ROI) that has been more than 11 years, most are in single digits now as it's becoming a buyers market. Recently priced a big system for a hotel and they'd breakeven in year 3.9, so insane value for money.

Last 2 Panasonics I fitted were virtually inaudible tbf, and the 2 Stiebel Eltrons we did even more so. Design is paramount so these aren't running flat out, ever, so measure twice install once (and nice & quietly!). 1x S.E. client could hear the neighbours combi flue (30m away) over the unit on full chat, when heating the house for the first time and stood right next to it. 1x Panasonic client had his backing on to the neighbours waffle fence (dwarf one) and on test the neighbour asked the client if they'd hear the unit....he said "It's going full chat right now!".....she said "I can't hear it".....client replied "yup!". Happy days. There are cheap nasty ASHP's out there, and instances where they should not have been installed, so these are out there as poor examples which people fear. Minds are changing with each 'better' install, just gonna take time I guess.

If you have a local metal fabricator then you could take the brackets to them and ask them to attach (stud-weld) some 6 or 8mm studs to them, one 40mm down from the top, and one 30mm up from the bottom. Then use barrel nuts to screw onto the studs, then threaded bar (300mm long?) into those barrels to give you some length for purchase in the concrete. A good deal of type 1 or other haunching outside will hold everything in place curbing the pour, but that will require a lot of thought and preparation for prevention of any movement, and baby sitting to prevent the “oh, it’ll be fine” attitude of others who won’t realise that a few mm out is disastrous.

Yup. After 45m iirc, and if further away you must provision for the appliance to be able to drive in, in a forward gear, turn a full circle, and leave in a forward gear. If our bin man can reverse the refuse truck half a mile whilst swigging a coffe then you have to ask WTF here tbh 🤷‍♂️.

Give it a few months and you’ll be off to the races here. The stupid questions are the ones you don’t ask, and then go and make a mistake with, and then come back to solve said mistake…. So don’t be shy and ask away!! Welcome aboard 🫡🏴󠁧󠁢󠁷󠁬󠁳󠁿👍

Don’t buy the cheap Chinese dewalt copies (with LG at the end of the model number).

The go-to on most sites is the basic dewalt one:

You cannot compare an open pumped system to one running off a cold mains, as the pump is a huge performance booster and usually way OTT for what you actually need to be able to shower under, adequately. The static and dynamic flow rates will obvs be affected when more than one outlet is opened simultaneously, so no shock there, and obvs the more outlets you open the more dynamic performance you will see. Simple maths methinks! I’ve spec’d a full house plumbing arrangement with a 400L UVC and the cold mains is hovering a bit above 2.5 bar static. I’ve suggested fitting a 300L cold mains accumulator to maintain flow rates as I know without it the showers will suffer. Cold mains supplies aren’t infinite, so this is always down to diligence of the installer; they need to put on their thinking cap before just going ahead with a knee-jerk spec and installation of kit that won’t meet expectations. The only way you’ll better the performance here is with an accumulator.

I was referring to the drip in the threshold detail of the window / slider itself. Check with the manufacturer to see if what I show is the drainage pathway, if so, all good and the threshold can be fully bonded down.

You know you’ve got problems with cold draughts when your ‘outy’ turns to an ‘inny’

Yes, it is. But better than 3 or 5! I’ve got AT test scores in clients builds as low as 0.25, so I’m not advocating a poor (terrible) number, just using a minimum threshold where any worse than that should mean you don’t bother with MVHR as there’ll be no heat to recover after cold air infiltration.

Speak to Sika and see if any of their family of Sikaflex mastics would be better here. Rainwater management will be the constraint here, but possibly won over if you use (prob defo need to) a continuous bead on the inside, and then a stop start bead on the outside to allow drainage. There’s a lot going on in that pic, if you look closely.

Should look like this.

If under a warm / hot shower I doubt MVHR on boost would give you any discomfort in an open room. Cant really understand any other rationale for positioning MVHR vents, other than to be as far (diagonally) opposite the door as is possible; to move the most amount of air through the room. Maybe avoid steel vents and go for a powder coated aluminium if in the shower / steam zone, but I’ve not seen these affected by rust tbf as the constant airflow seems to rid the system of moisture anyways.