AdamSee

I play around with recycled plastics quite a bit and I've yet to find a glue that sticks to it. Use lost head screw for best finish. Depending on the decking type a bit of WD40 on the screw before driving it in helps buy displacing the plastic instead of cutting it away. The head becomes more "lost" in the plastic. Make sure to use stainless screws. Nothings worse than a fancy, permanent, rot proof, ever lasting decking structure.........with some rusty ass screws stuck in it. Btw, What decking did you go for?

As you said. Cut off the clay pipe below the crack. Use one of these to convert to a PVC pipe. Adaptors can be found from screwfix / toolstation. Link here: https://www.screwfix.com/p/mcalpine-push-fit-single-socket-drain-connector-black-110mm/4255V?kpid=4255V&cm_mmc=Google-_-Datafeed-_-Heating and Plumbing?kpid=KINASEKPID&cm_mmc=Google-_-TOKEN1-_-TOKEN2&gad_source=1&gclid=EAIaIQobChMI6-vH9J37gwMVf49QBh1wcAAyEAQYAyABEgLBHPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds You could use a compression style rubber adaptor. They work fine and don't restrict the internal bore. If the pipe was horizontal I would recommend that option. Alternatives could be fiberglass lining it if you think its cracked under the house. Quite pricey to do.

I've put UFH pipes through walls. Drill a hole large enough for some flexible conduit, make good with some motar....expanding foam.

I would leave more than 600. Eg. 620 for the first machine, the 600 for the next. Learnt this from a recent annoying mistake. Left 1200mm for the two machines under a utility counter (my utility is essentially a hallway with a door either end). But once I had fitted the architrave on the door in front of the washing machine you could no longer open the detergent drawer. Certainly couldn't get any skirting down the side.

I second this. Another pair of eyes shouting up/down to keep the bit level works well. Using a longer drill bit helps the other person spot if it's going off horizontal.

Sweet looking bathroom pocster. Hopefully it remains leek free. Funny story relating to my post about my shower build....it eventually leaked. Not from a fitting, but from the diverter valve. Getting the faceplate off was a pain in the ass due to vast quantity of silicone use. Tried dental floss, rubbish. Got it off using two wall paper scrapers in the end. Had to replace the diverter in the end, and resealed it using minimal silicone this time. Best of luck!

I had blue engineering brick similar to those and found that a soft brass wire brush and soapy water was enough to clean up the mess on them. Mine were steps and when the screed in the house was laid the builders stood on the steps in their boots which made a horrible mess of them

I have the bosch gas 35 m class extraction. You can use it with it without the bag depending on how problematic the dust is. The extra long hose is very useful and it has an alarm when it's full or blocked. Overall it's a brilliant machine which is well suit for professional use, but it had a shitty flaw built in to it. After using it for a few weeks its pitch sounded off and it lost suction. Turns out that the internal soft foam sound insulation had come loose and blocked the exhaust. Had to opening it up and fix it once and eventually I removed it all together. It's overly complicated in there too. 4 out of 5 I guess.

I've found a lot of the gu10 holders to be like this now, rather than the old type where you had to try and get the bulb in from below and twist them by applying pressure to the bulb. I assume it's the only way to maintain a ceilings fire resistance. The detachable connection block is good for the old style gu10 Philips hue bulbs, which were very tall. And didn't fit in much.

That wishbone looking bit of spring steel near the top of the black part of the fitting would usually hold the gu10 bulb. Remove the bulb from the fitting nad slide it in from above and in a sideways motion. Looks like the bulb will sit approx 50mm back from the base of the fitting.

Remembered to check today. The tracks I have are 1400mm long. Explains my issue with them.

Easier option, use the supplied tails and replace the (assumed) brass olive supplied with a copper one. That can be compressed directly on to the plastic pipe. Remember to still use a pipe insert.

I have the makita plunge saw....its goods, but same as Istevensuk, the tracks are naff. One has a slight cup to it, so the saw can wobble ever so slightly, no amount of adjustment seems to get it to cut consistently. The other thing I don't like about it is the track length. When cross cutting an 8 x 4' the track is too short, unless you're at maximum plunge depth. The track adjustment knob (used to take the sidways movement out from between the saw and rail) just slips off the rail end, leaving a crappy cut for the last few cm. Very annoying.

We have a large fiberglass flat roof on our extension which wraps around the property and most days it lets off some large crack / bang noises. Where the nigh time temp has dropped recently its let of some whoppers throughout the night, really wakes you up. Only been a year so its still early days on weather its going to collapse or not. My workplace however is a 20 year old industrial unit, one of those two tone grey ones and the noises it emits are immense. Aluminium cladding on a steel structure......sounds like people are walking around on the roof / mezz. Really creepy at night.

Thanks for all the input fold. Had yesterday evening off so didn't get a chance to work on this. So my aim is to ensure that I don't constrict the airflow at it has a further 3 to 5m to go via flexible radial ducting (x3). my joists are 54mm wide, I would have to shave off 25mm (max) to be able to squeeze through a 60mm duct at 45 Degrees. The joist is supported every 40cm by the perpendicular joists which sit on that wall plate. So load on the joist is pretty well distributed. Which is fortunate, because there's no way of sister it for reinforcement. Making this adaptor is now pretty straight forwards. Going to mould it straight over a well lubricated bit of spiral duct, which has a piece of 60 x 200 ducting affixed to the side at roughly 12mm off the centreline. Can pop it off when its set, clean it up, then glue it back on with something abit more flexible and a few rivets.

I did consider using PIR or polystryene and covering it in foil tape. Could then dig it or dissolve it out as suggested, but wouldn't have the an ideal internal finish. I had written off the idea of squeezing in a 54 or 60mm duct as it would mean shaving the joist down which I was under the assumption was a big no no. Granted the joist is supported along it's length by the perpendicular joists, so its got the least amount of load on it. And it would only need to be the corner removed. Unfortunately I can't access it well enough to sister it up. Will post some photos of the current situation tomorrow.

Long story short. I have to squeeze a duct over a RSJ through a 50mm gap while mainingtaining 8,500mm2 of ducting area. This is to be used to extract stale air from the downstairs bathroom and utility and send it 16m up a 125mm duct to the loft mounted MVHR unit. So my question is. Has anyone made custom ducting from GRP? And can anyone forsee any problems with this in a inaccessible ceiling void? I've seen on Jeremy's blog that he's made a exhaust silencer out of MDF and others have made custom distribution manifolds out of timber. But I've not see anything made from GRP. I've thought about various other methods but due to time constrains my options are limited. I've attached some very quick sketches of the difficult location that I need to get the pipe in to. Part of the issue is that I have to squeeze the duct in-between a new RSJ and the existing floor joists which run parallel to it. The RSJ is supporting the floor joists which are perpendicular to the forementioned. This is actually helpful for duct running as it provides a void to run the duct through over my kitchen. But the new RSJ is too close to the parallel joists to get off the shelf fittings in and even it I could buy something I still cant get a square ducting coupler to join on to the side of a round duct (which is a spiral galvanized duct) My plan for making these fittings........is still a working progress, leaning towards making it as two halves using a MDF mould to ensure the inside wall is nice and smooth. Can readily join the two together when the things made. Thought about 3d printing but concerned about the strength, air tightness and would need to be made out of many small sections. Any thoughts, or ideas would be great. I've attached a sketch. Top drawing is a cross section view looking at the end of the spiral duct and a side view of the gap the custom ducting needs to squeeze through. Lower drawing is a plan view showing how the joists change direction.

We had the same problem with a 10mm bottom plate on the RSJ. I didn't pick up on this issue until after it was fitted so had to make do with what the builders left me. The gap I had left with just too thin for insulated plasterboard, so I instead used plasterboard held in place with a lot (full coverage) of low expansion foam. Theres a lip on the frame which helps hold it in place while its setting the the inside edge of the wall was a MF structure which allowed an additional screw fixing. Seems pretty solid. Problem here is that there's no vapour barrier, it's a working progress.

I've used 10 x 10 recycled plastic from here https://www.earth-anchors.com/product-category/lumber/ for decking in the past. Won't rot, so it's ideal for here. They have a free cutting service. Not sure if that extends to a free drilling service. But it's worth an ask. It's available in 8 x 8 which would work for rope posts. Just needs the holes (and the rope). What's your plan for fixing them? Can you dig near the edge or allowed to bolt to the hard standing that is the edge. Best of luck.

Glad I did it the way I did as it's a really tight fit to get the waste pipe around the corner before it hit the next pipe along. The hot and cold ended up the wrong way around, but by fitting them above and below makes switch sides less messy. Still have the cut away more for the shut of access. But otherwise pretty happy with how it ended up. I'll put a picture up when the entire room is finished.

Probably could have gone that way too. But I got the idea in my head to put both isolators next to each other.....then couldn't see any other way to do it.

Apparently I had limited parts and wanted it done this evening so I used the left over pipe to redo it. A small crease formed in the middle, but nothing major. But it did end with a small flat/straight section at the top of the bend. The whole job was alot of faff just to make sure that that I didn't have to pass a 40mm infront of the pipes and possibly not leave enough room for the washing machine to sit infront. It's all done now. Theres a mix of hep2o, soldered joints and pipe bends. Was a good first experience of pipe bending.

Pushfit might have to be the way to go. For some reason, even though no one will ever see it, I still want it to look half decent. Still got a length of pipe left. May give it another hit and see how it goes.

After some opinions on my copper bends. I'm trying to bend some copper pipe in to 180° to avoid soldering 2no. 90° together. Unfortunately I get a crease in it from where I have to rejig it in the pipe bender. Would you use it or find another way? Once it's fitted it's trapped behind a unit so it's not going to be accessible for a repair and it feeds water just to an outdoor tap.

I would say that it's critical. I guess you could retro fit helical bars used in crack stitching on either side of the wall. Same as Mr Punter has said; use screw in wall starters. Possibly just take off the top few bricks if there not fully set yet and fit them.