NSS

Yep, that's what we thought. The Panasonic can also do cooling though and is preset to only run in cooling mode if the water temperature is below 20C but it still seems a big differential between the upper and lower thresholds.

We have a Panasonic Air Rad for spot heating/cooling in the one bedroom upstairs. Since commissioning the UFH and moving in it has stubbornly refused to work and, after consulting Panasonic, it transpires that the unit has a water temperature probe that will not activate the fan until it detects water arriving at the unit at 35C or above. As we only put water into the heating circuit at circa 31C max, we are simply not reaching that threshold. To my amazement, there is no provision on the unit to vary that 35C trigger. Panasonic's initial suggestion was to raise the input temp to 40C. This is not only undesirable due to the fact that the ASHP would be working less efficiently at that temp, but the UFH circuits downstairs would quickly raise the floor temp above the limit of 27C (ish) dictated by the Karndean flooring. After numerous conversations with Panasonic over the last month, we were no further forward. I then spotted a paragraph in the manual that suggested it may be possible to operate the fan with the temperature probe disconnected. Panasonic were sceptical but today I gave it a try and, hey presto, it works. Anyway, main reason for posting this in case anyone is thinking of using Panasonic air rads and is made aware of / put off by the 35C threshold (we weren't told before ordering it), it is in fact possible to overcome this.

Not wishing to be a party pooper but, realistically, as friendly as this forum is, as good a bloke as @ProDave undoubtedly is, and as sympathetic as we all may be to his (and others) predicament, IMHO there simply aren't enough members here to make this work. Even if 5% of members were prepared to put an average of ₤100 each into the pot (and I doubt that many would), you're looking at little over ₤4k. Is that really going to solve Dave's problem? Don't get me wrong, it's a lovely idea, but I'd hate Dave (or anyone else) to get their hopes up and then have them dashed.

Just a thought, Dave, but if your tenants have said they wish to buy the old house in 2 years time, would they be prepared to pay a bit extra each month (₤x) on the agreement that you deduct ₤x (x24) + 10% from the agreed sale price 2 years hence? It might not make a big difference but it could help pay for some more materials to keep the build ticking over and would give you certainty about their intent.

Really sorry to hear your predicament Dave. Hope your little windfall materialises soon.

Yep, killer heels have to be removed at the door!

Yep, very wood like, and as others ha ve said, easy to clean, warmer under foot (even without the UFH I on) and quieter than wood. Also worth mentioning that it's a more forgiving surface when dropping glasses/crockery (my wife is a bit of a 'butter fingers. Here's our hallway...

We've done the whole house in Karndean. Had it in the hallway and kitchen of our old house for 15 years and still looked like new when we sold the house.

Lol. Love the wallpaper idea. We could have a load made and send it to all the arsehole neighbours as a peace offering

So, you invest huge amounts of time, effort and hard-earned cash. You sweat blood, shed tears, and spend sleepless nights fretting over endless details and decisions. Finally, you subject your dream creation to umpteen tests and inspections so as to qualify for the Holy Grail that is a building regs completion certificate. And then you get it, and it is the singularly least impressive looking document imaginable. Mrs NSS said we should frame it and put it on a wall when it arrived, but then it did arrive and it'll be lucky to be pinned up with a fridge magnet - to the back of the fridge!

Ours sits between the garage and house, with access from the garage only. With most of the penetration though the air tight envelope being from the plant room, the idea was it would effectively give us an extra 'skin' to help control the airtightness through. To that end, the door to the garage has airtight seals and the wall and ceiling junctions to the rest of the house have had particular attention to sealing penetrations and seams. Within the plant room we have the MVHR unit, UFH manifold (plus pump and wiring centre), expansion/buffer tanks for both the DHW and UFH, consumer unit, PV inverter, water softener and main SageGlass control panel. The ASHP and MVHR control panels and the SageGlass controls are inside the house for ease of use/monitoring, and the DHW tank is in an airing cupboard which is directly adjacent to the plant room. Water and electricity services enter via the plant room floor (we have no gas).

Looks fabulous

Good stuff. You'll be in in no time if our experience is typical as we found an extra burst of energy for the final push. The nearer the finish line gets, the more eager we were to cross it Okay, we still have some cosmetic stuff to finish off, but two weeks on from moving in we finally have a home rather than a 'site', and it feels great.

No, the corner profile must go on before the Click boards, as explained earlier in the thread, as the clips into which the boards mount will need to be screwed through the profile into the batten behind.

This page may be worth a read - https://www.sageglass.com/en/faqs/switchable-technology - and describes it as switchable glass that can be linked to building control systems, so presumably a range of data types could be used to switch it. It also makes clear (pardon the pun) that it is not 'privacy' glass. That is true as the view outwards is preserved, although the view inward (when tinted) is significantly diminished, so much so that we have no blinds/curtains at any of our Sage equipped windows, including our bedroom.

LOL. Okay, I'll drop them an email.

In theory, I can't see why that wouldn't be possible. Can feed back as a question to my Sageglass contacts if you like?

Wouldn't like to say whether or not you could router the operal board, but it's only 9mm thick (ie thinner than the Click boards). I guess you could in theory construct as per your drawing, but you'd have to fit the reveal and corner profile before the Click boards, which (from my experience) would not be ideal. Why not contact Marley. They have technical people who should be better able to advise on the best solution for your situation.

Precisely

Very little. Each window, depending on size, consumes approx 1.2 to 2.0 watts when in full tint.

External sensor senses light intensity to trigger tinting. No temperature sensing but control can be adjusted to react at varied light intensity so has in effect been calibrated to our location, aspect and glass area.

Did a little experiment earlier this week. We had two consecutive days where there was bright sunshine all morning. On the first day I left the Sageglass in auto and by 10.30am it was tinting to reduce the solar gain and the indoor temperature remained at 21 degrees all day. On the second day the Sageglass again started to tint at around 10.30am but rather than leaving it in auto I manually overrode and left it in its clear state. Within 90 minutes the indoor temperature had risen by 2 degrees and rose a further degree by mid afternoon. Okay, early days yet but it seems to be doing what it was designed to do.

We'll then use the Operal board to fill the strip between the corner profile and the window frame.

Sorry, misunderstood your query. The profiles we used around the reveal are the Marley Click external corner profile (on the vertical sides) and the lintel profile on the top. This image shows the corner profile returning into the reveal. You don't batten the reveal itself, the profile just attaches to the vertical batten placed flush to the reveal and then the clips for securing the Click boards fix through the profile into that vertical batten.

Hi Simon @Gadget Buster, we're using Marley Operal board in the reveals. It's available in the same colours as the Click boards but only in the smooth finish (which is fine for us as we have the smooth Click). You can order it in various widths but we've bought 300mm width and will just rip it down to suit. Let me know if I can provide any additional info. Cheers, NSS