Temp

Not sure if this is the latest legislation but pretty sure if connected to the house it would be considered an extension. Part 1 A (Extensions), B & C (Roofs), D (Porches), E (Outbuildings), F (Hard surfaces), G (Chimneys), all require planning permission if your house was converted under class Q. I think a conservatory is considered a Class A extension although they are only mentioned in Condition A3. Part 2 changes you can still do under permitted development unless other restrictions apply. https://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2015/596/schedule/2/made Part Q aside, for permitted development any extension (other than a conservatory) normally needs to use similar materials to the house. I think it's very likely you would need planning permission.

+1 Perhaps run a steel across the other way so your timber joist span is halved.

I think you have the same rights as most other houses. The legislation here.. https://www.legislation.gov.uk/uksi/2015/596/schedule/2/made Precludes an extension (Part 1, Class A) if your house was converted under class Q, however I don't see a similar restriction in Part 2 Class A Fences. So I think you can have 2m fences except where adjacent to a highway or footpath where its 1m high.

Thanks folks. I have a triangular dormer and the way it was built and lined makes it hard to find timber behind the plasterboard. Was only able to find 2 nails with a magnet so probably 8 brackets will just be into plasterboard. It's only getting net curtains so no great weight. Think I'll give those a go. The tool isn't very expensive on amazon. Think the brackets are a bit small to hide the hole needed for Grip-its.

I normally avoid fixing into plasterboard but looks like I have no choice when I fit a curtain rail for some net curtains. The rail has to fix to the ceiling plasterboard in a dormer. It's a job I hate as the fitting always seems to start rotating meaning the screw won't go in or come out. So what's your favorite fastening for plasterboard?

Try other things first. Im comfortable working with a multi meter on live equipment but you might not be. It is quite dangerous after all. If there is no obvious mechanical reason why they aren't running I'd check the motor is free to rotate by spinning it by hand. Then check the motor is getting power with a meter. If it is then see how the capacitors (if any) are fitted. Some are soldered internally, some have screw terminals. If you think you can replace them they aren't usually expensive and worth doing before replacing a whole motor. Other things to check with power off.. I dont think any MVHR motors are likely to have carbon brushes but that's something I'd also check. Our system has a fuse in the controller. Some systems have a thermal cut out. I'd hope they used one with an automatic reset but others have a button. The can be all different shapes and sizes but something with two terminals/wires and a button is likely to be a cut out. If its tripped it will be open circuit (infinite resistance between the terminals). Find the reason for overheating, fix it and push the button. Temperature sensors are frequently a type of resistor that varies with temperature called an NTC. So look for a probe in the airflow with two wires. The resistance will probably be 10kOhms at 25c but there are many other standards like 20kOhm or even 100kOkm at 25c. Sometimes the nominal value is marked on them. Check for open and short circuit. Unfortunately I've seen them fail in a way that's not obvious. The resistance was like 9k when it should have been nearer 10k. Again they aren't expensive to replace if you can find the right one.

If you do need a movement joint you might be able to partially hide it behind a rainwater down pipe.

Welcome to the forum.

I think you might need a movement joint. This is from the NHBC.. https://www.nhbc.co.uk/binaries/content/assets/nhbc/tech-zone/nhbc-standards/tech-guidance/6.1/movement-joints-in-masonry-walls-.pdf

If you want to build right up to the boundary remember nothing must overhang, so you need to think about eaves and gutters. The boundary wall is also unlikely to have adequate foundations for an extension so the whole thing might need taking down and rebuilding. In the future a neighbour might also want to do the same and suddenly your house isn't a detached house anymore. That can devalue it a bit. Sometimes it's not worth building right to the boundary as it frequently seems to cause issues.

+1 I think the modern conveyancing forms ask the seller which boundaries he thinks are his responsibility. The answers aren't always correct but what did the previous owner say? Typically hedges belong to one side or the other eg the house that planted it would normally have planted it on their side of the boundary. Be carefully about asking the neighbours because it tells them you don't know and they might take advantage of that.

Lots of interesting things in that video. Like using a bristle roller to apply skim plaster.

Looks like the same motor is used by Baxi, Main, Thorn, Potterton, Myson, Valor etc Unfortunately all seem to be charging near to the same price or more.

I wonder what sort of motor they have in it? Might be a capacitor issue .. https://www.capacitorindustries.com/resources/motor-capacitor-types/ https://www.pumpspluscapecoral.com/post/how-to-tell-when-your-motor-capacitor-goes-bad#:~:text=If a run capacitor fails,it needs to operate correctly.

Could they fix that by adding something? like they do to make gas smell bad.

If we make hydrogen by the electrolysis of water we can probably expect it to cost around 30% more than electricity by the time it gets to houses.

Hydrogen is also a greenhouse gas I believe, so important not to have lots of leaks from infrastructure.

Worcester-Bosch do make heat pumps.. https://www.worcester-bosch.co.uk/heat-pumps

Worcester-Bosch do make heat pumps.. https://www.worcester-bosch.co.uk/heat-pumps

Not really news but I can't recall a heat pump manufacturer stating this so clearly... https://www.telegraph.co.uk/business/2023/03/14/heat-pumps-wont-work-old-homes-warns-bosch/

It's only 120mm. Im thinking fill in the web on the steel and concrete with timber. Then bolt several joists together to make up 120mm and fix to the infill. Might need some steel straps wrapped around and fixed to the blocks to keep everything tight up against the beams. At the unsupported end it might be possible to push the tails of a long tailed joist hanger under what's there and fold it down and fix to the other side of the wall. Or fix a wall plate to the wall across the stairs and fix to that. .

In our area the planning committee has two or three people on it who understand planning law and policy. The rest don't have much clue and the chairman has to keep correcting them or they would reject an application for invalid reasons. Many of these also rans put a lot of weight on what local think and several times I've heard them say that neighboururs and the PC support or don't like an application. If possible I recommend sitting in on the planning meeting the month before yours so you get a feel for the sort of things they worry about. Sometimes it's crazy.

I think what helped me with the Parish Council was making sure they knew I wanted a house to live in myself and wasn't a developer after a fast buck. Perhaps get your consultant to begin by saying he represents the xyz family that love the area and want somewhere nice and energy efficient to live, not a developer etc.

It looks like a ceiling joist connected to a purlin. Eg the room below is a room in the roof with part sloping ceiling. I think it's probably OK provided the ceiling joists aren't triangulating the roof.

There does seem to be a few suppliers offering hvo heating oil but I haven't looked at the price.. https://www.crownoil.co.uk/news/breaking-new-ground-in-the-renewable-heating-oil-market-with-crown-hvo/