Temp

Does sound odd. On a previous house I found a set up that had one side of a light connected to live. The other side was connected to a switch that supplied the light with either live or neutral. So when the light was off BOTH sides of the lamp were live.

Try the bulb in another fitting? Have you checked the configuration switch settings? I would note the default settings and then try the last example (works night and day). Try temporarily hooking up a simple pendant to check the house wiring.

If you buy that type get a few spares. If they are any good they do last a fair time but better safe than sorry.

I rented a "power scythe" to deal with the vegetation but it sounds like you might need a digger with a blade on the front. Got any friendly local farmers? They could plough it up and reseed it for you. Otherwise get quotes from grass or landscaping companies.

It's hard to know if a planning consultant is going to be worth it or not. In my case it was but we had an an unusual situation. Our Architect wasn't a very dynamic person and didn't go out of his way to challenge the planners. The planning consultant was better at that.

Sorry if you know this but.. If the CIL is a thing in your area you normally have to formally claim any exemption on specific forms at the right stage or you can lose it with no way to get it back.

Can you just swap the heads on the manifold or are the wires too short? Perhaps that messes up labeling?

Past experience. LED themselves are pretty reliable. Drivers on the other hand tend to be crammed into a little box with minimal cooling. Some types of capacitor are particularly sensitive to temperature with their expected life halving by every 10C rise above about 40C.

It's unlikely to be the LED boards themselves unless they have more electronics on them we can't see.. More likely the driver module or capacitors in it.

Ok so the issue is where the higher garage founds meets the lower house. The ground must slope down to the house in this area so you also need to think about drainage and the visuals. You don't want to be looking at exposed concrete. I would expect a standard stepped foundation a few feet along the garage wall away from the house depending on how the ground rises. Some engineered bricks might be needed where partly burried? Check ground levels carefully to avoid the wall of the house accidentally becoming a retaining wall. I agree an SE needed to design how the garage floor slab abuts the house.

Most bathrooms need some sort of storage. One option is to build storage against a wall and run the waste in the bottom.

Yes think I'm out of date.

I assume they aren't talking about a Building Control Completion certificate but some sort of Completion Certificate for Council tax purposes only? I wonder if the latter could trigger the 3 month window for VAT reclaims. In my case (at a different council) they just sent me a letter stating they are assuming I will be complete on some date. I disagreed and told them it will be complete on a different date a few months later and they accepted it.

Contact companies that make metal or concrete garages and have them confirm theirs meets the regs. Perhaps pay for pre application advice from the planners and send them brochure images? The regs also include the foundation slab suitability for the ground conditions so you may need to dig a hole to check how thick the slab is? Think about how it will be sealed to the slab to stop water running in under? Ditto at the doors?

Not me but Google AI said.. "The specific RS485 communication protocol used by Acrimo for their motorized products is generally a proprietary protocol and is not publicly published or standardized"

Not sure about grab rails but tile and stone over 12mm Hardiebacker board seems to hold things like soap dishes and shower head rails well without needing to find studs. I think 12mm of anything might be marginal for grab rails? Can you drill through into the brick?

I can't quite visualise what you are building but check building regs. They require quite a deep (thick) "constructional hearth" if the fire pit/basket/chamber is capable of raising the temperature of the hearth over 100C. For sealing joints perhaps fire cement? Not sure what colours it comes in but try screwfix/toolstation web sites.

Id probably glue it in place.

Lots of wind farms in East Anglia. Very few south of London.

I make my own extension cables when I can because commercial manufacturers are under cost pressures to use as skinny a wire as they can get away with.

If you feel like it you can always get one done and keep the results to yourself. But I wouldn't. Tell the Architect you will investigate and carry on.

I hope that was by email. Contact them ASAP. Perhaps decide beforehand how much of a discount would persuade you to keep them. I would also measure them all to make sure there aren't other issues.

It would help if you cleaned some of the paint and dust off the wires but dont disconnect any wires from terminal blocks or it will be near impossible to sort out whats going on. Just turn the power off ! Is there a third light you didnt remove? This is what I would try but perhaps see if others agree first... On the lower photo... 1) One of the terminal blocks has a mix of Brown and one Blue wire. It's likely that that terminal block is the switched live and the Blue should really have a red or brown sleeve on it. So the Brown wire from the light fitting goes in that one. 2) The Blue from the light goes into the terminal block with all the other Blue wires (only Blue wires). 3) If there is an Earth wire on the light it goes in the connector which has bare copper wires sleeved with yellow and green. (Ignore the yellow and green tape on the connectors) On the upper photo... This appears to only have three groups of wires coming out of the ceiling so... 1) The Brown wire from the light goes in the connector which has Brown wires coming out of the ceiling. 2) The Blue wire from the light goes in the connector which has Blue wires coming out of the ceiling. 3) If there is an Earth wire on the light it goes in the connector which has bare copper wires sleeved with yellow and green. (Ignore the yellow and green tape on the connectors)

I'm not sure about Scotland but in England I think your right to maintain a discharge pipe should be in the neighbours title. So I'd be looking at that and possibly even speaking to the neighbour. If its mentioned in his title and he's all happy explain you might need to repair the pipe/install a new pipe and see if you can negotiate the cost of that and a sewerage treatment plant off the asking price. Check what permits are needed if any to do the upgrade. I guess it depends how much you like the house if you want the hassle.

Think I would put a layer down the cavity and a layer of insulated plasterboard on the inside. The inner layer would need careful cutting at an angle to fit the existing.