MJNewton

Just to be clear to other readers; I wasn't actually there

Yes, looks good @zoothorn I enjoy your threads, sometimes for the wrong reason and by God sometimes they are *painful*, but it is great to see one conclude with a nice ending. I do hoping you're sprawling around on that carpet taking in that new carpet smell? Oh, is it just me that does that then? P.S. Please only mention your air pump in the relevant thread; we don't need to all hear it (pun intended!) in here...

Must... resist... temptation... (@Admin close the thread quick before someone gets banned ?)

If the mains cables are protected by an RCD then I don't think they need any mechanical protection even if <50mm from the surface. If they did, I don't think metal capping would count as it's still no match for a nail? I'm sure there's a resident spark on here who'll know chapter and verse. Drywall adhesive can be smoothed and sanded, but whether it'd provide as good a match to the surrounding area as others plasters I don't know.

Defeating the purpose is one thing, voiding the warranty (despite no such constraint being a condition) is the bit that concerns me. I'd put your health and comfort first, and worry about any warranty issue if/when it comes to it.

They should put a clause to that effect in their written warranty really if they beleive it to be an issue. Did you make it clear you'd only be looking for it to be temporarily disabled? (Assuming you're not persistently smoked out of course)

Did they say why, and more importantly on what grounds? There's no such restrictions in the written details as far as I can see.

Now *that's* a light!

It's preferable not too, particularly if the replacement component is of slugjtly different dimensions. A diagonal cut across the olive with a junior hacksaw 3/4 of the way through (being careful not to nick the pipe) and then twisting with a screwdriver will remove the old ones in no time at all.

I too use the Flomasta inhibitor. Feels, smells and tastes (don't ask!) like any other.

Thanks James - will have a read!

Good question - I'd have to check. The roll I linked to is 10mm thick and my recollection is that mine could be that or thereabouts. I suppose the thicker it is the more filtration/restriction there is so I think I'd be looking to maintain 'normal' performance on that front.

I'm sure this must've come up before in conversation, but I haven't found a dedicated thread so thought I'd start one... The filters on my Titon 1.25 MVHR are long since overdue their first replacement and whilst 'official' replacements aren't prohibitively expensive at £12.78/pr the thrifty Northener in me is reminding myself that's it's the sort of thing that's heavily marked up and so there is likely a cheaper - yet just as good - alternative available. My filters consist of clip-together plastic frames and so it'll be trivial to replace just the material and so I figured I ought to be able to buy a roll of G3 filter material for an additional outlay upfront but that will likely last me forever and so soon pay for itself. Furthermore, if I had a roll I'd be more likely to replace the filters more often and it'd be a sunk - and long forgotten - cost once I've got it. Has anyone else done this and, if so, can share any recommendation of supplier? A cursory Google search finds me a 1sqm filter roll for £8.34 (excl. delivery) which would give me 10 replacements.

I'm out too. The 12 pages have been interesting but we're going round in circles now.

Quick reply as I'm busy at the moment so can't check the manual, but could it be frost protection kicking in?

... or sludge (but I do seem to recall Zoot saying they're new in this instance).

Yes, just do that. I wouldn't bother with the vents though - if it is fully sealed then the internal temperature ought to just track the average room temperature given the mean of all the air passing through it.

Varilight programmable dimmers are the best (or should that be worst?!) example of that! To be fair, with only on, off and timings in-between things are going to get fairly complicated if needing to enter multiple different modes of configuration so their designers do have my sympathy.

Just do it! It might not give you the answer directly, but it might help us work out what might be happening. Zoot, if you're asking for help the least you can do is do what's asked of you - even if you're not sure why? Mrs Miggins never gives us all this trouble...

The low output could be the weather compensation in action - recognising that the outside temperature is relatively high (is it?) it limits the heat output. In the middle of winter it'd crank it up to max.

...and the diagram on page 25 may help illustrate this as it can get a bit confusing just written down if you're not familiar with this method of control:

From some of the clues you've mentioned, is this your controller? (Vaillant VRT350F, with the instruction manual here)

You could do that, but bear in mind that the longer the sample period the bigger the jump is expected to be and so it makes it easier to detect and easier to avoid false positives. If your window is small the threshold would likely have to reduce and you may find it triggers when it shouldn't. As @SteamyTeasaid trial and error will guide it well, and to be honest I only went with 5 minutes because that's how regularly the script wakes up to take temperature measurements for plotting so I just piggybacked on the back that. That said, I do find a shower gives a 5-10% rise in that timeframe and so it stands out from the noise (natural variations) quite well.

20% RH is pretty exceptional but, granted, I suppose it can happen. With it being seasonal however it shouldn't affect rate-of-rise detection, or was/is the issue that you've only got absolute RH detection available?

I think there's been a misunderstanding along the way somewhere. A new pump (or radiator, or any other invasive bit of work) could indeed result in pressure loss for a period whilst you bleed out any air that was inevitably introduced (from the work itself and the fresh water added afterwards). However, a new pump would *not* cause the PRV to pass water. That is, or represents the existence of, a fault and so I would be getting the installers (of the system) to come and take a look at that.