Miek

I didnt find it much work to fit the ledgers, just nail on the hangers before lifting them. Fixings are just 12mm studs 2 every 800mm ( I just guessed this spacing) . I love resin anchors, but they are slower In the winter. If your webs are open and you need strongbacks I can see the difficulty. Mine were osb closed web so no strongbacks.

Pocketing the joists Into the wall is bad for airtightness. A Tony tray works. Or resin fix a ledger to the walls (after parging) and hang joists on hangers

I used restraint straps across the joists on the wall without the ledger, but this was specified by the floor designer (JJI joists). The ledger side doesn't need restraint IMO as the resin bolts do this.

If it expands after curing it won't exert much force as it remains permanently flexible, I really doubt it could lift an arch. When cured you can squeeze it like a dense foam and it springs back.

I like these for timber joining, strong as a bolt but quick as a screw, you can drive them in with a rattle gun with one hand. https://www.screwfix.com/p/turbocoach-hex-flange-coach-screws-m8-x-100mm-50-pack/78121

Use Illbruck FM330 foam. It's airtight and remains flexible, Brilliant stuff.

Given the height of the wall I would be wary of freestyling it. Better to get a structural engineers input IMO.

Your steel has a Web thickness of 8.9mm and at 90mm a HSS hole saw will do this easily. As @markc said, get a Starret one and use at low speed. Do not push too hard or you risk damaging the teeth and keep it straight. Get a can of aerosol cutting oil to make life easy. I reckon 5 mins per hole max.

Finding a lower power element might be possible, but it will make heat up time longer.

You can get treated glulams, might be worth looking into.. Larch heartwood is a very durable timber above ground , but you might need to get it cut by a sawmill to the sizes you want.

Your after a modulating element not a switching one. Gas ovens are modulating but I've never seen an electric one which does this. Your best chance of reducing total energy usage might be getting a smaller oven/Air fryer. I once insulated my old gas oven with rockwool to try and reduce gas usage, but I don't think it made much difference, as gas ovens have holes in.

The cheapest wood aluclad 3g seems to come from Rationel but close behind we're Russell Timbertech and Nordvest. My spec was 0.8Uw so it's important to compare like for like U values. if you go for the very lowest U value the price grows significantly. Opening style is a big one too and I went for top hung fully reversible.

That is so utterly crap it's hard to believe!

Really? I got 6 companies to quote for aluclad triple wood windows and internorm prices were mental high, Over double the average price. That was this year.

If the batteries are secondhand it's likely that they have slightly different internal resistances so not surprising they don't show identical voltages. Taking a voltage under load is not ideal. Really you need each one disconnected and ideally after having a few hours of no load to get a good stable accurate voltage reading. Recommended float charge voltage: 2.29Vpc at 20°C -from the datasheet. That's quite low for lead acid, so make sure you are not overvolting them during charging, a lot of chargers go to 2.36Vpc at least. Do you measure your load? If so just let them have a full absorption charge and go In to float, then discharge them without any charging input till they hit 2.0Vpc and see how many Watt hours you used. If it tallies with the datasheet more or less then they are healthy enough.

If you insulate the wiring you need to downrate it or it could overheat. Cables within insulation need to be bigger to allow the same current through as they can't dissipate the heat so well, so a 2.5mm ring main might need to be a 4mm ring if its in insulation . I'm not a sparky

My weeps are at dpm not dpc, dpc is 1 block above the bottom of the cavity (I'm in a radon area so the dpm runs over the cavity and into the outer skin) The weeps at ground level are there to release water but in reality they should remain dry if the wall is waterproof. If they are below grade and draining into porous material I'd say that's fine.

The solar coil at the bottom of the tank should have a kW rating, check on the cylinder. Usually the solar coil is quite efficient at heat transfer as its designed for a temperature difference across the coil of around 4 degrees C and so they are often quite a long coil.

I printed mine out, but in the end having them on my phone was way better onsite, so the prints were only used by the builders .

In April this year I paid £45/m for 203x133x25 UBs delivered ex vat If that helps?

100mm+ at a guess, but run the idea past your BCO as they are the ones who you need to satisfy really.

Add a strip next to the footing to widen it, but also add concrete depth over the existing footing to tie them together, otherwise the two strips of footing might move differentially and you don't want that. Effectively you will have thickened the footing a bit which shouldn't be an issue..

You've clearly put thought into it, that's all you need to do. The boom will do all the work, you will hardly need a rake. Remember it's just footings, they don't have to be pretty. I used a boom on my footings and just stood around and watched the operator and had a chat, took photos. Part loads are when the mixer is not full ( usually 8m for a big lorry) so the cost is a bit higher but don't sweat , just keep an eye on the quantity towards the end of the pour and adjust as needed.

With a boom pump you will be fine as long as the operator is good, they do this day in day out, they will know how to avoid breaking the shuttering.

This makes it easier to make strong shuttering. Ideally get or make some steel stakes (square is best) , but if you only have wood then use that.